ClubRoadster.net banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Sorry if there is already a thread about this but I could not find any info about it.
So back in the summer I stopped by the Miata specialist shop here in ABQ and the Owner suggested using 20w50 oil in my car, and to be honest it did run a lot smoother. But now it's winter and my car is getting harder to start the colder it gets. Its almost time for an oil change so I'm wondering, should I switch oil?
Could the oil effect how it starts?
And is there a weight that is better for cold conditions? Because it's freaking snowing out here and it's my DD.

And again I know this might be a dumb thread but I'm honestly concerned about this so if you have usefull info I'd appreciate it.

Oh and btw the battery is new I already took that precaution.
 

·
~Foo's Best Friend~
Joined
·
517 Posts
0-30 mobil 1 synthetic.
$25 at walmart for 5 quarts

a lighter weight oil is more viscous at lower temperatures, but will still operate as a 10-30 would when up to temp

you can also use the 5-40 synthetic diesel oil like i do
either one will start up much smoother and lubricate much faster than the 20-50 youre using
 

·
Hasa Diga Eebowai
Joined
·
243 Posts
...a lighter weight oil is more viscous at lower temperatures, but will still operate as a 10-30 would when up to temp
Thicker oil is MORE viscous...thinner oil is LESS viscous.
A 50W oil at freezing tempratures will barely flow (like frozen honey). That's one reason they make multi-grade oils. It allows for eaiser start ups and cold temprature pumpability, but then the oil get's thicker (more viscous) as it get's hotter, to protect better.

Cold temp viscosity ----> 5W-30 <---- Operating temperature viscosity

For winter temperatures, you can switch from a 5W30 to a 0W30, because they both are a 30W at operating temps.

-Cheers,

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
If the temperatures out where you are go anywhere near or below freezing, 20W50 is definitely too treacle-ish. I've just changed the oil in mine from a guesstimated 10W30 to presumably the same 5W40 synthetic Diesel oil Christopher is referring to and it makes a big difference.
 

·
~Foo's Best Friend~
Joined
·
517 Posts
Thicker oil is MORE viscous...thinner oil is LESS viscous.

forgot viscosity = resistance :fp:

but yeah switch to a 0-30 a 5-30 a 5-20
**** even a 10-30 would be a lot better than what youre using
next on my list after winter is mobils' 0-40
i think napa also sells eunos oil with good weights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
945 Posts
i use 5-30 in the winter with a Mobil1 filter and start up is great here in Jersey. The tick is gone and it runs smooth. I'm at 200k on a completely stock motor.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
306 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Well I switched to 10w30, I just used that recycled Valvoline oil. But start up is way easier now. Only down side is the ticking got louder but I just set the timing back to 10 degrees and it went down a bit. But it's still there you can faintly hear it at idle. I'm too broke this month to change it again. Should have just gone with a synthetic or somthing. I took it to the Miata specialists today for a problem with my idle and he toldme not to worry about that ticking. So I think I'm good now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
If we're talking about lifter tick, that should from rattly to barely audile or at least fairly quiet within a few seconds to a minute and thinner oil seems to be something that tends to help. Timing shouldn't make a difference on lifter tick, though.
 

·
Hide yo kids hide yo wife
Joined
·
6,286 Posts
I used to run mobile 1 0w40 synthetic, and that helped my noisy lifters.

After cleaning out the lifters, i just run 5w30.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
945 Posts
If we're talking about lifter tick, that should from rattly to barely audile or at least fairly quiet within a few seconds to a minute and thinner oil seems to be something that tends to help. Timing shouldn't make a difference on lifter tick, though.
Correct. Timing will make a difference on pinging. Just the weight of the oil will help the HLA's with their ticking
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,037 Posts
Well I switched to 10w30, I just used that recycled Valvoline oil. But start up is way easier now. Only down side is the ticking got louder but I just set the timing back to 10 degrees and it went down a bit. But it's still there you can faintly hear it at idle. I'm too broke this month to change it again. Should have just gone with a synthetic or somthing. I took it to the Miata specialists today for a problem with my idle and he toldme not to worry about that ticking. So I think I'm good now.
I just switched from 10w30 conventional Penzoil (previous owner ran this) to 10w30 mobil1 synthetic and I've been noticing a lot more lifter tick when I start my car recently as well. It's also gotten colder but I'm going to seafoam my motor and switch to 5w30 in hopes of curing the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
The engine in my Miata had a faint lifter tick when I picked it up a few weeks ago but since then the temperatures up here have dropped noticeably (we're talking 15 degrees in the morning etc) and tick got a lot louder.

Running some Seafoam through the engine with the old oil and replacing it with Rotella T6 (5W40) has helped a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
945 Posts
The engine in my Miata had a faint lifter tick when I picked it up a few weeks ago but since then the temperatures up here have dropped noticeably (we're talking 15 degrees in the morning etc) and tick got a lot louder.

Running some Seafoam through the engine with the old oil and replacing it with Rotella T6 (5W40) has helped a lot.
I heard good and bads about Seafoam with these motors. Does anyone have any insight or advice? Everyone i've spoken with is opinionated and swear for it or against it. Sorry for going OT but I thought it was relevant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
This could be a bit of a n00b question, but in my defense there are no newbie questions, only newbie answers. ;)

All oils around the world are rated the same right, so 10w-40 in New Zealand would be the same as 10w-40 in the US?

Or

Is the oil rated differently due to US temperatures being in Fahrenheit and other countries being in Celsius?

I only ask this as the temp viscosity was mentioned above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,488 Posts
Sorry if there is already a thread about this but I could not find any info about it.
So back in the summer I stopped by the Miata specialist shop here in ABQ and the Owner suggested using 20w50 oil in my car, and to be honest it did run a lot smoother. But now it's winter and my car is getting harder to start the colder it gets. Its almost time for an oil change so I'm wondering, should I switch oil?
Could the oil effect how it starts?
And is there a weight that is better for cold conditions? Because it's freaking snowing out here and it's my DD.

And again I know this might be a dumb thread but I'm honestly concerned about this so if you have usefull info I'd appreciate it.

Oh and btw the battery is new I already took that precaution.
Here is the deal. There is two schools of "thought" on the oil weight crap (as it pertains to high performance, which is generally the case if you run 20w50).

1) run the thickest oil possible, because it provides better lubrication in high heat/abuse. This is usually suggested by spec miata drivers/teams. My local miata mechanic suggested I run 20w50 also.
2) run a full synthetic like GC 0w30 or M1 0w40 or Rotella T6 5w40. It gives you the best of both worlds to some extent. Its not quite as thick in the high heat, but full synthetic provides some benefits that a synthetic blend may not do as well. This provides easy start up.


If you want my suggestion, run two different types of oils depending on time of the year. I track my car with 5w40 rotella in the winter and most of the summer, but I use 15w50 redline during june/july weather where it gets in high 90* to 100*+ around here.

As for Rotella vs. GC vs. M1, I would consult cheetah_driver on that. He does way more research and testing on oils, he likes the M1, but prefers the GC. Rotella is good inbetween on both. LASTLY, don't be fooled by the 0w30 label on GC, its actually a very thick w30, while M1 0w40 is a pretty thin w40. Weight difference between them at temp is practically negligible from reading about this on bitog and discussions with cheetah_driver (he is on m.net).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
945 Posts
Here is the deal. There is two schools of "thought" on the oil weight crap (as it pertains to high performance, which is generally the case if you run 20w50).

1) run the thickest oil possible, because it provides better lubrication in high heat/abuse. This is usually suggested by spec miata drivers/teams. My local miata mechanic suggested I run 20w50 also.
2) run a full synthetic like GC 0w30 or M1 0w40 or Rotella T6 5w40. It gives you the best of both worlds to some extent. Its not quite as thick in the high heat, but full synthetic provides some benefits that a synthetic blend may not do as well. This provides easy start up.


If you want my suggestion, run two different types of oils depending on time of the year. I track my car with 5w40 rotella in the winter and most of the summer, but I use 15w50 redline during june/july weather where it gets in high 90* to 100*+ around here.

As for Rotella vs. GC vs. M1, I would consult cheetah_driver on that. He does way more research and testing on oils, he likes the M1, but prefers the GC. Rotella is good inbetween on both. LASTLY, don't be fooled by the 0w30 label on GC, its actually a very thick w30, while M1 0w40 is a pretty thin w40. Weight difference between them at temp is practically negligible from reading about this on bitog and discussions with cheetah_driver (he is on m.net).
This is really good/helpfull information. Thank you for taking the time to post all that!

But now I'm confused.. There are way too many recommendations in the thread (and ALL OVER the internet). For an NJ daily driven 1993 Miata, what should I do? I currently have 5w30 and the tick went away...ish, but is there something that can benefit my car more depending on season?

Winter here is brutal. Summer here is brutal.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top