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Starts in Great Britain, Stops All Over The World
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You're welcome. I am loving the pads! The brakes are way more confidence inspiring than they were on the previous pads. I expect autocross times will improve considerably since I can now brake later into the corners.
Great to hear, any problems let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #423 ·
In the meantime, I am working on one Miata project, although not for my Miata. My buddy Aaron sent me an NB steering wheel and a wrap from Redline Goods so I can install it for him. As per my last two experiences with their products, this wrap is already looking like it won't fit well. The key issue is the stripe for the top of the wheel.

You can see how bulky they made this portion
20210823_204230 by Jose, on Flickr

Of course, this will keep the section from closing over the wheel and any attempt to stretch it will cause the stitching in the wrap to break and leave you with a useless wrap (unless you want to re-sew it).
20210823_205030 by Jose, on Flickr

At least they only did this in one spot. On my alcantara wrap (which took like three months to get) they folded the seams over on themselves and sewed them down... in all four corners... such that you can never get it wrapped.
20210604_132738 by Jose, on Flickr
20210604_122049 by Jose, on Flickr


Fortunately, I have learned a simple way around that - you cut a groove in the rubber of the steering wheel so this bulky section can sit down flat to the rest of the wrap. I also reduces the circumference it must wrap around, which will allow it to meet in center.

Other than that, fitment is semi decent. We will see what the final results look like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #424 ·
Here is a test fit of the leather wrap on the steering wheel. It was not too bad on initial inspection, I just knew up front that none of the seams were going to close due to having too little material at them. I ended up finding that same issue where the wrap curves into a corner (on top and bottom corners where horizontal spokes meet the rim)
20210823_205412 by Jose, on Flickr

This is the groove I cut into the wheel to allow the bulky center stripe seams to sit down flush
20210824_173452 by Jose, on Flickr

This allowed me to close the wrap at the center stripe. It would have popped the stitching if I tried using the string to close the wrap here.
20210824_174614 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #425 ·
This is how I got the other seams to close. I would do a box stich that went through the holes in the leather. This allowed me to tug on the leather and not the stitching.
20210825_112820 by Jose, on Flickr

Here it is with the lower half of the wheel fully stitched
20210827_190554 by Jose, on Flickr

Pattern looks pretty cool too
20210827_190607 by Jose, on Flickr

Until you reach these spots... The biggest gripe I have with Redline's wraps nowadays is that all three of the ones I have dealt with this year have mismatched numbers of stitches on the front vs the back. Typically, as much as three extra stitches per section! Here is how I got around that; by doing a Superman stitch :)
20210827_190627 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #426 ·
Here is the completed wheel. The Nardi logo is faded, so I did not reapply it. I will leave it for my friend to transfer the one off his existing steering wheel. I should mention that the fit of the spokes is terrible. The corners where you would rest your thumbs (where the horizontal spokes meet the rim) is literally floating leather; it is not seated down onto the spoke itself. It is plenty strong, but hopefully the sun shrinks it down tighter with time.
20210828_160234 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #427 ·
I had a spare set of Wilwood Dynalites laying around since I swapped the Tacoma to Brembos over 2 Piece Gyrodisc rotors. I saw that 949 Racing/SuperMiata created the boxmount bracket setup to use these specific calipers with an 11" ND Miata rotor. Of course, as soon as I had some money to blow I had to pick up that kit and a set of stainless lines they make that go straight to the Wilwoods. I got Brembo specific ND rotors per their recommendations and ordered a set of Wilwood pads off Summit to complete the kit.

Here are the components from SuperMiata along with the Wilwood pads
IMG_20220525_123145579_HDR by Jose, on Flickr

You can see how nicely the bracket follows the contour of the caliper
IMG_20220525_145650015 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #428 ·
Install was a breeze, just make sure not to tighten any of the bolts all the way. The fit on everything is so tight that you might thing the brackets aren't fitting correctly if you don't leave all the bolts slightly loose until everything is bolted on. You also need to cut the brake dust shields for this to fit. I managed to cut my knee on one of the sharp edges that resulted from that, hence the bandaid.
IMG_20220528_113036352_HDR by Jose, on Flickr

As I said, fitment is very tight!
IMG_20220528_132314849_HDR by Jose, on Flickr

Here they are on the car! It looks so much nicer with these brakes!
IMG_20220528_122625433_HDR by Jose, on Flickr

I worry that the pads I got are a little too thick. I remember that the ones that came with these when I had them on the truck were a tad thinner. These are right up to the rotor save for a tiny gap.
IMG_20220528_132318462_HDR by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #429 ·
Here I was, about to install the brake lines. The stock hard line fitting will be fairly seized to the female end of the stock rubber line. I hit the male fitting with a microtorch for a bit and then sprayed PB Blaster on there to both suddenly cool and to lubricate the connection. This made it easy to crack the connection using a 10MM flare nut wrench. NEVER use a standard open end wrench on these fittings as you WILL round them out! Note the paper in the end of the line to keep any crud from getting in while I work on that.
IMG_20220528_135746191_HDR by Jose, on Flickr

The old rotor compared to the new hotness
IMG_20220528_214150528_HDR by Jose, on Flickr

From there, I bled the brake lines and them put the car back on the ground. Here is the final look behind the wheels. These are 15x7 TR Motorsports wheels and the brakes fit perfectly behind them. That's one of the benefits of the compact body of the Dynalite caliper. It fits behind basically everything!
IMG_20220531_222610375_HDR by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #431 ·
With the front brakes done, I decided I wanted the rear stainless lines and the Wilwood proportioning valve setup from SuperMiata. I really should have done this all at once so as to bleed brakes only once... Oh well lol. The new setup is pretty nice, there is a brand new junction block and stainless line for the passenger's side and a new line for the driver's side rear brakes. Up front, a coupler unites the front brake lines in place of the old prop valve and the Wilwood prop valve is in line with the rear brakes. I need to bleed the system and the Miata should be ready to do battle.

Here is the passenger's side with the junction block. The new block only has one hole and mounts to the upper bolt vs the factory block that mounts to both bolts. The lower bolt should still help locate the block since it ends up right against it, we will see long term.
IMG_20220617_160043285_HDR by Jose, on Flickr

Here is the driver's side rear
IMG_20220617_160030016 by Jose, on Flickr

Here is the new prop valve, you have to turn it all the way down to open max flow to the rears (you will do this in order to bleed the rears)
IMG_20220617_160012278_HDR by Jose, on Flickr

The new prop valve lines up to the bracket for the old one but does not align to the bolt hole. You will need to drill a new one and use a bolt and nut. As I write this, I am reminded that I own a rivnut tool and could have done that more cleanly...doh!
IMG_20220617_162620249_HDR by Jose, on Flickr
 
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