[JDMAflac]

After installation of the Greddy kit my car would start to overheat after long drives involving stop and go. Not to mention in 90+ degree weather. I've so far changed the cap, thermosensor, and did a flush. Also made a undertray to help flow. The car also came with a no-name aluminun radiator.

A conclusion that i came up with besides a bad water pump is my starion intercooler is blocking airflow to my radiator which also has the AC condensor infront of it. Im thinking of ripping out the AC units since I dont use it and its been vacuumed out.

I wanted to run a slim fan to replace the OEM unit but wanted to hear experiences from you guys with aftermarket fans. Are you guys running a push or pull fan? Also, what size will I go with?


Below are links that i've found to some great deals:

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1461419

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1180287

 

[marlon the great]

its probably the fan that's not working

 

[JDMAflac]

nope, the fan "does" come on.

 

[Guest]

Are you guys running a push or pull fan? Also, what size will I go with?

This is setup is all you need to know. PM me for details.

http://www.awrracing.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=234

http://www.awrracing.com/store/contents/image.php?sizex=200&sizey=150&image[0]=images/products/miata_shroud2.jpg

 

[Sid]

pull the ac, save weight and get more air to the rad.

the awr is a badass setup. I've been eyeing it to.

 

[JDMAflac]

do you guys agree that the starion plus the ac are blocking airflow to the rad?

 

[Greg G]

Yep. High performance fans plus shrouding will help.

 

[nwdrifter]

my old miata had overheating problems it was due to bad radiator as with most greddy kits common problem is heat soak i suggest checking your radiator and buying a 3 row koyo that will definetly fix the issue! btw i didnt run a intercooler and i didnt buy an iintercooler i just replaced it with a new oem unit and it works fine.

 

[turbored]

I have a generic metal radiator and a FC RX7 TMIC as a FMIC and A/C. No overheating issues. Actually, with the MS radiator cap, it runs a tick south of the middle on the temp gauge.

 

[JDMAflac]

^

sure hope its not my water pump!

 

[Hammerhead]

I have the following setup:

GReddy kit (TD04/GReddy manifold) @ 10lbs
MR downpipe
2.5" exhaust (+ stock cat) w/Flowmaster muffler
NPR large intercooler
Stock A/C
Stock fan on pass. side
10" aftermarket puller fan on driver's side (to allow clearance for intercooler piping)
Aftermarket steel tank radiator
No belly pan
No shroud in the mouth of the bumper

Even with 93 degree heat in FL, the only time it gets hot is in stop & go traffic with the A/C on. Even then, it runs about 3/4 hot. With the A/C off, in any heat and traffic condition, the car runs a tick under 50% hot (normal). This is also under a lot of boosting (I have a heavy foot)!

Assuming you have no air bubbles in the system and your water pump and fans are operating properly, you shouldn't be running hot. Just because your fans are running, doesn't meant they are operating correctly and at proper speed.

An aftermarket rad is not necessarily the answer - a larger tank doesn't guarantee better cooling.

A few things to check or replace:

* Cooler plugs - NGK BKR7E-11 - they are one heat range cooler and will help. The major purpose of plugs, aside from providing a spark for combustion, is to draw heat from the cylinder.

* Piggyback your fans - there is a write-up on m.net about this and basically, it turns on BOTH fans whenever the thermosensor tells it to turn on the single fan.

* Coolant mixture should be about 80% water. Water transfers heat better than coolant.

* Flush the radiator. If this doesn't help, it could very well be clogged. A radiator shop can check the flow of your rad. When you refill, let the car run with the cap open until the coolant is warm and watch for bubbles escaping. When the coolant is warm and begins to flow out, quickly cap the system.

* Replace the thermostat. You can easily check this by removing the thermostat entirely and running the car for a day or so and seeing if the same overheating occurs. If not, your thermostat is proobably bad, if it still overheats, you've eliminated the thermostat as the culprit.

* Your water pump has a 'weep hole' which should leak drops of water to indicate when the pump is going south.

 

[JDMAflac]

I have the following setup:

GReddy kit (TD04/GReddy manifold) @ 10lbs
MR downpipe
2.5" exhaust (+ stock cat) w/Flowmaster muffler
NPR large intercooler
Stock A/C
Stock fan on pass. side
10" aftermarket puller fan on driver's side (to allow clearance for intercooler piping)
Aftermarket steel tank radiator
No belly pan
No shroud in the mouth of the bumper

Even with 93 degree heat in FL, the only time it gets hot is in stop & go traffic with the A/C on. Even then, it runs about 3/4 hot. With the A/C off, in any heat and traffic condition, the car runs a tick under 50% hot (normal). This is also under a lot of boosting (I have a heavy foot)!

Assuming you have no air bubbles in the system and your water pump and fans are operating properly, you shouldn't be running hot. Just because your fans are running, doesn't meant they are operating correctly and at proper speed.

An aftermarket rad is not necessarily the answer - a larger tank doesn't guarantee better cooling.

A few things to check or replace:

* Cooler plugs - NGK BKR7E-11 - they are one heat range cooler and will help. The major purpose of plugs, aside from providing a spark for combustion, is to draw heat from the cylinder.

* Piggyback your fans - there is a write-up on m.net about this and basically, it turns on BOTH fans whenever the thermosensor tells it to turn on the single fan.

* Coolant mixture should be about 80% water. Water transfers heat better than coolant.

* Flush the radiator. If this doesn't help, it could very well be clogged. A radiator shop can check the flow of your rad. When you refill, let the car run with the cap open until the coolant is warm and watch for bubbles escaping. When the coolant is warm and begins to flow out, quickly cap the system.

* Replace the thermostat. You can easily check this by removing the thermostat entirely and running the car for a day or so and seeing if the same overheating occurs. If not, your thermostat is proobably bad, if it still overheats, you've eliminated the thermostat as the culprit.

* Your water pump has a 'weep hole' which should leak drops of water to indicate when the pump is going south.

What fuel set-up are you using to be pushing 10psi?

-Im currently using the 7e-11's gapped at .035

-i'll definately have to search around to piggyback both my fans!

-I've changed the thermostat, thermosensor, and a flush. But im more than likely no using 80% water, probably 30-40% water. #-o

-weep hole you say.... :idea: learn something new everyday..


Thanks for your knowledge!

 

[Hammerhead]

What fuel set-up are you using to be pushing 10psi?

I can easily boost more, but I need to get the 550cc injectors.

Currently, I am running the stock fuel pump, 460cc injectors, Vishnu fuel rail and RX-7 AFM.

 

[Hammerhead]

Just installed the new DIN panel from RSpeed and a new boost and EGT gauge. After a little bit of tuning, I'm pushing 13 lbs.

 

[JDMAflac]

I just checked my plugs and its 6E's not 7's. where do i order?

 

[Hammerhead]

Any good auto parts store can order them for you (NAPA comes to mind).

 

[JDMAflac]

Thanks hammerhead. Is there that much of a difference btwn 6e's and 7e's?

 

[LUV2TURN]

Temperature range, Nick. It makes a bigger difference than you might think. We generally use 6's and 7's (NGK Copper) at work for modded 3S's.