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Discussion Starter #1
I am planning on painting my miata soon and need some help. i'm going for the color white, possibly pearl or aspen white. A friend of mine is using HI Grade Primer from O'Rileys and the basecoat, clear coat, etc from a website. I was wondering if it's even worth using rattle can primer? I read something that they do not mix well. Which means it will peel off. Um, let me know. thanks.
 

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I do paint and body, I get alot of guys asking the same thing. The simple answer is NO.
The reasoning is that ,off the shelf rattle can primer isn't a 2 stage activated system. Rattle can primer is porous, and will absorb moisture, leading to a bad paintjob. Now if you are just spot priming, Eastwood makes an activated 2k primer out of the can, but at 20$ for 12 oz its not cost effective, a gallon of 2k urethane primer with activator can usually be had for around 90$.

There are tons of primer types for you to choose from, but myself ,i prefer a 2k urethane, lays easy and smooth and most importantly its easily sanded saving you time and money.
 

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Btw, since you are planning to paint it white, use a light color primer, avoid med-dark greys and blacks, Itll save you alot of basecoat.. and if you want a true white pearl effect, lay a coat of pure white basecoat before laying down the pearl white.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
^thanks soisauce. I am only spot primering. I'll post some pics after
 

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Discussion Starter #6
lmk if you are serious. i can paint the miata for u...
I got someone painting it. Uhm, did you use spray can primer for your bare metal spots? I used filler primer (dupicolor) to cover the bare metal spots
 

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will someone be spraying the car only? are they ok with that prep work?
-i use PPG or Dupont paints/primers etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
will someone be spraying the car only? are they ok with that prep work?
-i use PPG or Dupont paints/primers etc.
I believe so. I'll take a pic of all the equipment that i have, next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sanded:


Removed the bumpers to sand them separately.


Is it okay to primer it, even if there's little bit of the old spray paint on? (the black spots)


front view


After sanding from 120, ended at 400 with primer (after cleaning it with wax/grease remover)



My goal is to paint it white. I missed some spots from sanding. The door handle area and the trim from the windshield. Not quite finish...

I've used dupicolor Filler Primer. (Rattle can).

After the primer is all dried within a day or two, I will start my wet sanding with a 600 grit sand paper.
 

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Did you sand it by hand , DA sander or block sand?

Not bad so far, but it looks like you sanded to deep in some spots, if u dont plan so already,I would recommend using a guide coat when sanding the primer, just so you can see the low and high spots that need extra attention.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-guide-coat-black-aerosol-12-oz.html

technically its just a darker shade of primer, so since you are using rattle can primer, you could just give it a light mist of darker primer over the existing primer, right before you block sand it. When its done and you notice theres still some dark primer, you'll know you have a low spot which will need to be filled.

Taking the extra effort in doing this will prevent an uneven and wavy paintjob. Good Luck with it, and im excited to see the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did you sand it by hand , DA sander or block sand?

Not bad so far, but it looks like you sanded to deep in some spots, if u dont plan so already,I would recommend using a guide coat when sanding the primer, just so you can see the low and high spots that need extra attention.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-guide-coat-black-aerosol-12-oz.html

technically its just a darker shade of primer, so since you are using rattle can primer, you could just give it a light mist of darker primer over the existing primer, right before you block sand it. When its done and you notice theres still some dark primer, you'll know you have a low spot which will need to be filled.

Taking the extra effort in doing this will prevent an uneven and wavy paintjob. Good Luck with it, and im excited to see the results.
I used another primer (which is under the gray primer). It's called Etching primer?
Looks exactly like this:


I'm afraid of the paint (base coat) from flaking off the primer -__-. I shot the whole car with primer but now have to smooth it out and find more imperfections. I missed places such as the black trim around the whole windshield. I need to remove it in order to sand the remaining red.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here are my paint stuff:

1 gal base aspen white
1 gal stabilizer
1 gal clear
1 qrt activator
1 qrt reducer
1 gal lacquer thinner
1 gal wax and grease remover (used before primering)
1 qrt bull dog flexible part (sticks better on poly-bumper/front lip)
18in green paper
2 rolls of 2in tape
4 maroon scuff pads (door jam areas)

I placed an order at a store called HI-LINE in Hawaii. They have the best paint. Well according to many professional painters. They didn't give me the brand name but they're giving the "best". lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
okay, so I see rust starting to build up on the driver side of the windshield. (I could see that brown color showing.) It's building up under that black seal that goes around the entire windshield. Is it safe to remove it? I'm afraid it's going to remove the windshield. lmk anyone please and thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Anyone knows how "Platinum pearl" with a white base looks like? I'm planning on spraying the white as a base and the pearl with the clear. Lmk asap. Kind of curious what it looks like,
 
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