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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Update from a LONG Easter weekend. Went in to visit family and my dad told me to go ahead and bring in the parts I've been waiting to put on. This ended up taking the entire weekend plus Monday (is "because racecar" a good reason to skip classes?).

Drive in was uneventful, got in late Friday night.


Set to work early Saturday morning on the roll bar assuming that would be the worst part. It is a Hard Dog M2 Sport. Everything went smoothly aside from the complete and total lack of knowledge either of us had on how to do this. I had read writeups online sure but when I actually got to putting the bar in those all seemed to miss some details here and there. In the end it was fine. It wasnt super difficult to work out however once we realized we had to cut the parcel shelf and not just the metal piece that unbolts. It seems self explanatory now...still that first cut hurt my heart a little.



Test fitting



Its in!



We cut the interior pieces to fit back around the rollbar and trimmed up what we needed and here is where we make the great mistake. The headers. Cheap Raceland headers. They should be easy we said, we can knock it out tonight we said. They were not, we couldn't. I don't have many pictures of this process so I apologize in advance.



Put the front end up on stands and got to work. Also shoutout to my girlfriend and her blue Lexus in the background of this picture for not only putting up with my family this weekend but also me being insanely busy trying to visit family and get this car back in one piece. You're a saint.



Lost a very important piece in the attempt to get the headers off. Not long after this there was a sudden downpour. They were not removed that night. I don't have any pictures of the next day but we ended up finally getting the headers out and the new ones in. It took 2 hours just to get the EGR tube bent enough to fit. Raceland also ships a gasket for the top of the headers but not one to fit between the headers and the cat. That was another trip out and 2 parts stores to find. Also had to extend the O2 wires but I knew that was going to be an issue.



They ended up fitting (but not well) finally after much cursing and struggling. The headers bounce off of the transmission tunnel under acceleration so that will take some massaging to remedy.



I am glad to have this stuff done I hope there wasnt too much whining in this post! The headers do make a difference around 3.5-4.5k and the car feels better power wise but I can see why the RB headers are the suggested route. Not gonna lie though right after this picture some highschool kid on a field trip asked to take a picture with my car and it completely made my day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·

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Good job on the roll bar install! Yup I had to message the trans tunnel in my nb1 after installing a Raceland header, maybe this post will help you or others: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=6342770&postcount=5

I think the small fitment issue is a fair trade off given their price, in fact I bought a used Raceland and used it on Warbird. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Good job on the roll bar install! Yup I had to message the trans tunnel in my nb1 after installing a Raceland header, maybe this post will help you or others: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=6342770&postcount=5

I think the small fitment issue is a fair trade off given their price, in fact I bought a used Raceland and used it on Warbird. :)
Yeah I agree its a tradeoff I can live with, unfortunately I assumed it was hitting the transmission tunnel but it was actually hitting the transmission itself and I've got absolutely zero clue on how to fix that.

 

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The fun part is learning along the way, good build thread. I've been thinking about doing the Raceland header [and doing a quieter exhaust] for a while myself. On the header fitment, is there a way you could loosen/adjust bolts/hangers on the exhaust to get the header to fit away from the trans? Just wondering, haven't had the pleasure of installing headers yet.

BTW - love the NB, miss mine dearly...
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Yeah this whole car is a learning experiment for me. Its really the first one I've modified. theres nothing that bolts the headers to anything between the engine and the cat so I dont think theres anything I can adjust. I'm gonna try to see what I can do this weekend and if I cant find any good solution I will contact raceland.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I never thought that something like the door bushings would ever make a difference. I read Adam's review on it and though "Yeah but my car doesn't make that much noise when I drive." I was wrong, it made more noise than I realized. These things are magic.

Old and Busted


New Hotness
 

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Nice, looks good! Nice to see a fellow central Virginian. On the header, I bet a strategically placed dent in the tube would do the trick.

So the delrin door bushings actually help? Been curious but skeptical for my 91...
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Yeah man! I might actually be in Richmond for school next year, and I've actually already swapped the headers out for new ones that dont hit the car. (old ones are up for grabs though!) The door bushings are amazing! I cannot say enough they are an awesome mod, it makes vibrations and squeaks disappear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
It's funny how similar our threads are... I'm a Richmond native, just put in a roll bar on my NB, I got a new exhaust rattle, and I guess door bushings are pretty common now.

And I really need a clutch.
Just checked your build thread out! What made you decide to go NA dash?

Are you just spamming or should I know what that means?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Its been almost 4 months since I updated this and a TON has happened. Firstly I moved to a new city which was great, the less great aspect is that the fist day I lived here my car broke down at 11:30 in one of the sketchiest areas of Richmond. The car decided its oil was best spent on the ground rather than in the motor and unfortunately after refilling the car had rodknock.



Got it towed it back to my house then loaded it up on a trailer and towed it 5 hours back to my dads house. Not having your car and being in a new city is depressing.

Finally got everything in order and got a brand new crate BPZ3 for a steal and got to starting the swap. I was orignally planning on hot tanking and swapping over my old head however in the end I decided to keep the VVT head. My whole goal was to finish this before Gridlife South on August 25th.









This sucked but it was a opportunity to do the clutch and swap over to some MazdaComp mounts that I had been meaning to do for a while and it was an awesome learning experience. Things were going about as well as a driveway motor swap goes until the final assembly. Disaster struck. The motor had not come with the oil line that carried oil from the VVT oil feed at the top to the side of the block. No problem I had that ordered. What I didn't have ordered was part #9YA3-51-001C AKA the fucking banjo bolt that connects to the block. One. Bolt. I called 3 Mazda dealerships looking for the part before I was finally told that no one in the country had one in stock and It would have to be ordered.



Bastard.

Finally the part arrived and I made it back to my fathers house to finish the swap. We still ended up working everything out troubleshooting a few things until about 2 AM. Finally though it was together and had done its first 50 break in miles/oil change. At 5am I left for the long drive back home where I had a whopping 6 hours to pack and prep the car for the drive to Atlanta for GridLife. I had no faith that a motor swap I had done myself would make it the ~1000 miles from Charleston to Richmond to Atlanta but somehow it did with no problems and made the whole drive back as well. I'm still in shock.



Side note Gridlife was absolutely awesome, I recommend it to everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Installing Toyota coils on a BPZ3 sucks. There is too much going on on that valve cover. How the hell am I supposed to make a bracket for these?

Edit: if anyone ever comes across this the Toyota coils don't really fit in a VVT valve cover, don't go this route, they're expensive and they're not an ideal solution, either make the modifications to run the NB2 ignition, leave the NB1 system and mount it better, or go with a FAB9 kit. Toyota coils on an NB2 motor is stupid learn from my mistakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
What advantage is there to the toyota coils on a BP-Z3?
Nothing that I'm aware of other than being cheaper. I was moving from the old BP4W coil pack system and this kit was for sale on here so I picked it up thinking it'd be an easy swap over. It wasn't. Plus my dad works for Toyota so I can get ahold of these coils for dirt cheap
 
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