Joined
·
2,003 Posts
Does anyone have solid information on removing the abs system from there NA? Is it as simple as just rerouting the lines and removing the computer?
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
Removing ABS system
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Joined
·
7,949 Posts
I think you need a different master cylinder. I'm not 100% on that though
Joined
·
2,003 Posts
Ok thanks.
Joined
·
2,003 Posts
Anyone?
Joined
·
59 Posts
What's your goal in removing the ABS? Weight savings? Pedal feel? You can disable the ABS by pulling the ABS fuse if it's the latter.
I wish I had ABS on my '95 track car, mostly to avoid flat spotting tires. Without ABS it's too easy to lock up the wheels at the threshold of braking.
I wish I had ABS on my '95 track car, mostly to avoid flat spotting tires. Without ABS it's too easy to lock up the wheels at the threshold of braking.
Joined
·
4,929 Posts
Pull the fuse first and see how you like it. I ran mine like that for a few years. I'm currently setting up for a non-ABS system now that everything is out of the car. I'm upgrading to NB sport brakes sans ABS though... so I'm looking for that exact master cylinder and booster setup.
This may or may not help you figure out the answer:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=363284
This may or may not help you figure out the answer:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=363284
Joined
·
2,143 Posts
You will need a new master and proportioning valve as well as lines . I pulled mine when i did my line tuck ,my 1st miata didn't have abs and i enjoyed the feeling so i pulled it . Next on the list since its bad is pulling my booster and going manual brakes .
Joined
·
2,003 Posts
So basically get a new master cylinder for a non abs miata and a proportioning valve and brake lines. Install, bleed, done.
Joined
·
2,003 Posts
You can have mine
Joined
·
3,858 Posts
I went through a lot of trouble to retrofit ABS in my car which probably tells you how important it is.
My recommendation is to keep it and if you don't want to use it pull the fuse, it's a HUGE AMOUNT OF WORK to convert a car from one configuration to another (the sold brake lines under the car need to be swapped).
My recommendation is to keep it and if you don't want to use it pull the fuse, it's a HUGE AMOUNT OF WORK to convert a car from one configuration to another (the sold brake lines under the car need to be swapped).
Joined
·
2,143 Posts
Why?
All i did was cut it in the engine bay below the frame rail and use one of those union fittings to make them work .
Joined
·
2,003 Posts
So was this correct?
Joined
·
2,143 Posts
Thats all i did also get a good brake line tool and if your able to take your fittings off with out rounding them off you can reuse them . Your also going to need a line union to run the new line on the driver side to the passenger side for the rear brakes .
Joined
·
3,858 Posts
Well my case was slightly different. I ended up buying the car with the ABS and I wanted to do a clean swap and have both cars running with functional brake systems.
Swapping the lines wasn't the most difficult thing. Removing harness from the corners and cavities of the body, identifying and fishing out the correct wires was the biggest headache (my fingers and nails still hurt). To do it right you also need to swap the upper A arms which wasn't a big deal since the new vehicle needed bushings anyways.
Joined
·
2,143 Posts
Oh i got ya the brake lines aren't that hard to deal with when removing things but when adding it yeah it would be a pain in the ass . I left my harness intact in case i sell the car and the new owner would want to run abs . I don't recall any difference in the A-arms i think if i was swapping it from one car to another again i would just pull the knuckle with all arms attached to make it easier . The bolts holding the sensors snapped on both my fronts and i haven't touched the rear sensors .
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
