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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have solid information on removing the abs system from there NA? Is it as simple as just rerouting the lines and removing the computer?

Thanks for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Anyone?
 

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What's your goal in removing the ABS? Weight savings? Pedal feel? You can disable the ABS by pulling the ABS fuse if it's the latter.

I wish I had ABS on my '95 track car, mostly to avoid flat spotting tires. Without ABS it's too easy to lock up the wheels at the threshold of braking.
 

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Speed Racer
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Pull the fuse first and see how you like it. I ran mine like that for a few years. I'm currently setting up for a non-ABS system now that everything is out of the car. I'm upgrading to NB sport brakes sans ABS though... so I'm looking for that exact master cylinder and booster setup.

This may or may not help you figure out the answer:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=363284
 

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Cr.net is addicting
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You will need a new master and proportioning valve as well as lines . I pulled mine when i did my line tuck ,my 1st miata didn't have abs and i enjoyed the feeling so i pulled it . Next on the list since its bad is pulling my booster and going manual brakes .
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So basically get a new master cylinder for a non abs miata and a proportioning valve and brake lines. Install, bleed, done.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You can have mine
 

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I went through a lot of trouble to retrofit ABS in my car which probably tells you how important it is.
My recommendation is to keep it and if you don't want to use it pull the fuse, it's a HUGE AMOUNT OF WORK to convert a car from one configuration to another (the sold brake lines under the car need to be swapped).
 

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Cr.net is addicting
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I went through a lot of trouble to retrofit ABS in my car which probably tells you how important it is.
My recommendation is to keep it and if you don't want to use it pull the fuse, it's a HUGE AMOUNT OF WORK to convert a car from one configuration to another (the sold brake lines under the car need to be swapped).
Why?
All i did was cut it in the engine bay below the frame rail and use one of those union fittings to make them work .
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So basically get a new master cylinder for a non abs miata and a proportioning valve and brake lines. Install, bleed, done.
So was this correct?
 

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Thats all i did also get a good brake line tool and if your able to take your fittings off with out rounding them off you can reuse them . Your also going to need a line union to run the new line on the driver side to the passenger side for the rear brakes .
 

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Why?
All i did was cut it in the engine bay below the frame rail and use one of those union fittings to make them work .
Well my case was slightly different. I ended up buying the car with the ABS and I wanted to do a clean swap and have both cars running with functional brake systems.
Swapping the lines wasn't the most difficult thing. Removing harness from the corners and cavities of the body, identifying and fishing out the correct wires was the biggest headache (my fingers and nails still hurt). To do it right you also need to swap the upper A arms which wasn't a big deal since the new vehicle needed bushings anyways.
 

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Well my case was slightly different. I ended up buying the car with the ABS and I wanted to do a clean swap and have both cars running with functional brake systems.
Swapping the lines wasn't the most difficult thing. Removing harness from the corners and cavities of the body, identifying and fishing out the correct wires was the biggest headache (my fingers and nails still hurt). To do it right you also need to swap the upper A arms which wasn't a big deal since the new vehicle needed bushings anyways.
Oh i got ya the brake lines aren't that hard to deal with when removing things but when adding it yeah it would be a pain in the ass . I left my harness intact in case i sell the car and the new owner would want to run abs . I don't recall any difference in the A-arms i think if i was swapping it from one car to another again i would just pull the knuckle with all arms attached to make it easier . The bolts holding the sensors snapped on both my fronts and i haven't touched the rear sensors .
 

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The only (tiny) difference in the a arms is that they have a welded nut where the abs signal cables are attached.

Does anyone recall how heavy is the abs brick? From what I recall should be somewhere around 10lbs.
 
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