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is anyone switching their racks to manual racks, is there a weight savings by goin to a manual rack? Is it goin to be easier to steer with swapping it?
removing powersteering
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Personally, I'd just depower your power rack. The PS rack's ratios are tighter, requiring less turns from lock to lock.
As for weight, the only real loss you'd have is the weight of the PS pump and reservior. If you have AC, you'll need to figure out some sort of arrangement on idler pullies to make up for your (now) too-long belt.
Miata.net has a couple of threads every summer about this topic.
As for weight, the only real loss you'd have is the weight of the PS pump and reservior. If you have AC, you'll need to figure out some sort of arrangement on idler pullies to make up for your (now) too-long belt.
Miata.net has a couple of threads every summer about this topic.
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pulled the ac also
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I agree.. Thats what I did when I did my swap. You need some plugs to cover the holes in the rack, and you need to make sure all the fluid's drained. Thats about it really. Mine works great... much better ratio then the non-power rack. If you want, I can give you the phone number of a guy in florida who sells the kit I Bought (for the plugs).
G
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·Tell me more about this kit. Does it include 6 plugs or 2? Anything besides plugs? Does the seller have a website?
This is the only source I've located for the 2 larger plugs (14x1.5 and 16x1.5):
http://advanced-autosports.com/prod07_ps_plugs.htm
I've had no luck finding a source for the (4) 12x1.0 plugs to remove and replace the tubes on the rack. I know some people snip them and fold them over or just leave them in place, but I'd like to find a complete solution.
Thanks,
Bill
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343 Posts
sounds like a pretty good idea, but seems unnessesary. all the guys who race miata's just plug them up and they work perfect. Good to know you can do that though!
G
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Ahhhh...that's what I did. The real weight loss is from the AC system (the compressor is about 30lbs, and the weight of all parts removed when I had the rack depowered and AC removed was about 48-50lbs). Not really too much weight loss to be had with the PS system, but the feel of a depowered rack is GREAT, and it would have been even better if I'd have done the FM method, but that would have required removing the rack and re-aligning the car.
Also note, if you're doing STS2, you're going to have to go to either a full manual rack or leave all the PS equipment in and running.
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what did you pay for yours?
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I can't remember the guys site, but here's his phone number. 256-309-0492.. the guys name is Tom neel... really nice guy. The kit he sold me just plugged up the large holes, and for the holes in the middle of the rack, I just moddified the old metal pipe which used to have fluid and connected them together to allow air to flow between the two chambers.
Here's a rough picture of what I did.
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Bill,
The folks you're looking for would be http://partsgroup.com/
They do used/wrecked Miata parts and Spec Miata setups. I've talked to Tom myself a couple of times...good guy to deal with, IMHO.
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ok whats ther purpose of all that, why cant i just cap it off?
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what happens when you push air and it has no wear to go? thats why you connect the two chambers together. The air feeds from one chamber to the other.
And yes.. thats Tom's website. They have a lot of good stuff.. good prices too! =D>
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12,272 Posts
I wanted to depower my rack the FM way but I ran out of time and energy last weekend. Since I got an alignment last Monday it'll probably be a winter project for me.
In case anyone wants to remove their power steering but keep air conditioning you can purchase all the special parts in kit form for less than the sum of the individual parts. When I called MazdaComp the guy on the phone didn't even know about this kit. It includes the idler pulley, bracket, bolts and the belt.
The part number for the 1.6 kit is NA01-YV-SK1.
For the 1.8 90-97 it is NA79-YV-SK1.
In case anyone wants to remove their power steering but keep air conditioning you can purchase all the special parts in kit form for less than the sum of the individual parts. When I called MazdaComp the guy on the phone didn't even know about this kit. It includes the idler pulley, bracket, bolts and the belt.
The part number for the 1.6 kit is NA01-YV-SK1.
For the 1.8 90-97 it is NA79-YV-SK1.
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154 Posts
I ordered the kit from my mazda dealer for my 1.8, part number NA79-YV-SK1 and thought I'd post a pic of its contents. I'm sure the 1.6 kit is much the same.
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How much is the idler kit from the dealer?
I wanna do the mods to a rack from a 93 and stick it in my 95 over one weekend, and get an alignment that Monday while at school.
I did have a day or two where I didn't have the AC/PS belt and driving the car at speed was a blast... but I could really feel the fluid pushing through the system.
I wanna do the mods to a rack from a 93 and stick it in my 95 over one weekend, and get an alignment that Monday while at school.
I did have a day or two where I didn't have the AC/PS belt and driving the car at speed was a blast... but I could really feel the fluid pushing through the system.
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1,670 Posts
I picked up the tension pulley and belt from T'ville Mazda for like...$60. Its been a while back though...so my memory of price might be wrong.
And yes, Tom at TPG is cool. I've met him, bought stuff from him, and would do it again in a heartbeat. Great guy, and a fairly nice warehouse of parts.
And yes, Tom at TPG is cool. I've met him, bought stuff from him, and would do it again in a heartbeat. Great guy, and a fairly nice warehouse of parts.
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