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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have any hi-res pictures of the RS Factory Stage Specialty Panel for the radio console available in Black, Stainless or, Silver?





I can't quite figure out whether is replaces the OEM plastic piece or simply covers it up after you've made irreversible modifications to your own? I think I like the RS Factory Stage version better than the D-Technique version because I don't like large visible seam on the D-Tec part that separates the original upper section from the modified lower section. Also, should I stick with the black or should I go bling and get the stainless version?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, if anyone has a real M2-1001 or M2-1028 radio console for sale please contact me via PM as I am interested in buying.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I wonder if the RS Factory Stage website is accurate or outdated or if Tetsuya Garage is sitting on a stockpile?
 

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I don't particularly care for the RS Factory metal jobbie. re. the DTec part. Yes, if you just leave it bare plastic, it will probably look gash. The M2-1028 is bare plastic, and doesn't anything special.

The M2-1001 (& 1002) part is slightly different, wit a leather surround. In addition, a thick piece of board covers the flat surface. Note, the eyeball vents are sightly recessed. Underneath, its the same moulding as standard:



Used radio surrounds don't really cost that much. It wouldn't cost that much to get the D-tec part, modify a radio surround, then apply a cut to shape board (2-3 mil thick), and get a trimmer to add a nice stitched leather surround.

The leather and board will neatly cover the join. Plus, you can cut the board to take your current audio. The M2 part will only take the rather old original fit Panasonic cassette player.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was hoping to avoid doing any more custom work and was wishing there was a simple, relatively inexpensive bolt-on option. I can laser cut my own panel to cover the entire face of the radio console. And I guess I can just chop my OEM plastic radio console and fiberglass the bottom so it looks like an M2 unit - no need for the D-Tec unit since I don't have power windows and I have the trick Nielex 6 toggle switch setup. Any ideas on how much it'd cost to have an auto trim specialist stitch up a leather surround?
 

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Over here, a pint of beer will cover it. I really can't imagine it will cost much. A strip of aluminium or similar, just needs to be covered in stitched leather, and then bent to shape, to fit.

I would still seek out a used part.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I guess I need to sell my brand new, mint condition OEM plastic radio panel and get an old scratched up one from a salvage car if I'm going to be covering it all up anyways.
 

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M2-1028 bare plastic surround:



Using a cut panel as well will get around the problem of fixing the part in place; the original part uses push fit studs. Instead, counter sunk screws can be used, and covered.
 

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Minor difference; the point is not to produce a slavish copy of the M2 (though not difficult to do) part, but to get a neat console=less look. The more I think about it, the less I like the Zoom solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, I don't really need an exact replica. I just want something more spartan and classic looking to go with my console-less transmission tunnel. But good eye on catching the difference near the fan controller.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
old school hand cranks. The D-Tec part relocates the power window switch to the radio area if you need that. I'm still trying to figure out how/where to relocate the fuel filler door release. I'm probably going to have to open the trunk every time I want to fill up unless I custom fit an Aston flip up lid.
 

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old school hand cranks. The D-Tec part relocates the power window switch to the radio area if you need that. I'm still trying to figure out how/where to relocate the fuel filler door release. I'm probably going to have to open the trunk every time I want to fill up unless I custom fit an Aston flip up lid.
Velcro'd carpet piece, and remember not to leave valuables in the boot, with the roof down. Or get handy with a solenoid system (like the original 1990 optional trunk release) for both. No juice, no open.
 

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funny that when I enquire about a part to R S Factory it goes out of stock !!!

one thing to consider going for the 1001 / 1028 style radio console is that you will have to cut off / remove the left hand screw tab at the bottom of the dash where the OEM console screws into as this sticks out a fair bit ...

the D-Technique solution just looks wrong and apart from the seam / join the radiused edges look plain out of place, the R S Factory one is much neater and fits over an adapted OEM piece to answer your first question Kyle

I may just go for a custom replica version of the M2-1001 in my new project car and use the D-Technique carpet tunnel piece that seems to be the best avaialble in terms of quality and design
 

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I've seen the controls to open the gas/trunk relocated behind the seat before. Spec guys move the controls all the time. Why not figure out a way to extend the cable(s) and put them on the floor, down by the seat, like a lot of other cars? Or mount it on the rear deck somewhere out of the way?
 

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I've seen the controls to open the gas/trunk relocated behind the seat before. Spec guys move the controls all the time. Why not figure out a way to extend the cable(s) and put them on the floor, down by the seat, like a lot of other cars? Or mount it on the rear deck somewhere out of the way?
you're still going to have a bare bit of metal showing as the carpeted M2-1001 style console pieces you can buy off the shels don'y cover the release control area ... you may as well leave them in place and make a custom carpet piece to go around them and tydy the area up a bit !!?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Things will become much more clear when my genuine M2-1001 transmission tunnel carpet arrives from Japan. I was thinking if the carpet extends to where the fuel filler door release lever is located I wouldn't want to permanently modify the carpet by cutting a hole for clearance. I may just ditch the lever and relocate the cable to right behind the driver's seat actuated by a red nylon pull strap similar to the one I want to use on my custom door panels.
 

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I just think that making a carpeted piece to cover them would give an unsightly "bulge" to an area that you could smooth by just putting a piece of carpet, cut to fit that area, in place. To top it off, the controls would not be in the expected place, which has both "cool" and "huh?" factor built in.
 
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