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Discussion Starter #1
kay. pulling tranny to do clutch. thing is rusted from left to right, front to back dude.

first off - when i did timing, rust snapped the ps tensioner bolt
then - when i removed bracing for clutch, snapped the bolt on the left front of the lower control arm bracket.
on top of that - the flange to the exhaust is rusted forming a ring around the bolt, so i had to cut the exhaust in order to get it out
now - can't get the 17mm off the ladder frame connecting to the diff because it got stripped.

what im left with are 3 fucked bolts and a broken 3/8's 17mm 6 point craftsman socket.

any advice guys?
 

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PB Blaster dude.

I Recently took my engine and tranny out and used a wire brush on every bolt I felt would strip on me, than I threw some WD-40 on it and went HAM on my blots.

A hint that I learned after working on my previous rusty car is to use the right size socket and extensions to properly remove each bolt. And if your socket isnt sitting flush on bolt/nut, don't continue to try and remove it. You'll eventually strip it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i used pb blaster and dont get me wrong, it worked for most of the bolts, but ended up fucking me over with 3 of them.
 

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N-thing the PB Blaster/Kroil pretreatment, although I typically let it soak for a couple hours. I really have no quantitative evidence to say that this makes much of a difference, but it gives me an excuse to be lazy.
 

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heat does indeed help. i've never had to use a torch, but i have used the engine heat to work on a downpipe in my previous car.
it's right on the exhaust side, so turning the car on for a minute or so after you put lots of pb blaster on there helped with the nuts on the studs
 

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I wonder what the auto ignite is for PB blaster :lol:
I've kind of wondered this myself :eek:, but I still swear by the stuff (PB Blaster). If I'm really concerned about a part I'll hit it three days ahead and once the night before. The heat cycling of the engine heat seems to help. It has never failed me yet...
 
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