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Hey guys,

Working on trying to figure out what wideband I want to purchase. All though I'm not super picky on the price, I'm not some rich dude, ha. I've somewhat narrowed my choices down, but am open to any suggestions. My question is, out of the following (or one you mention) would you get?

NGK AFX - Pros: Accurate, nice interface, and easy read-out. Cons: No a spherical gauge, more pricy than others, and limited range.
AEM 6 in 1 UEGO - Pros: Spherical, easy read-out, best looking (IMO). Cons: Read it was least accurate, and gauge was "cheaply made."
Innovate MTX-L - Pros: One of the quicker widebands, spherical and looks good, mid-range price. Cons: ?

Any specific ones to stay away from?

Has anyone had any dealings with Aerforce Interceptor? Gauge looks really nice, although definitely more pricey. However, with it's abilities and functions, may pay off in the end.
 

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Hey guys,

Working on trying to figure out what wideband I want to purchase. All though I'm not super picky on the price, I'm not some rich dude, ha. I've somewhat narrowed my choices down, but am open to any suggestions. My question is, out of the following (or one you mention) would you get?

NGK AFX - Pros: Accurate, nice interface, and easy read-out. Cons: No a spherical gauge, more pricy than others, and limited range.
AEM 6 in 1 UEGO - Pros: Spherical, easy read-out, best looking (IMO). Cons: Read it was least accurate, and gauge was "cheaply made."
Innovate MTX-L - Pros: One of the quicker widebands, spherical and looks good, mid-range price. Cons: ?

Any specific ones to stay away from?

Has anyone had any dealings with Aerforce Interceptor? Gauge looks really nice, although definitely more pricey. However, with it's abilities and functions, may pay off in the end.
I have an MTX-L, I know a few of the turbo guys using the older LC1 were experiencing some o2 sensor overheating during track time, but that's about the only issue I have heard of with the Innovate line.

I think its a solid choice, given the price.
 

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I had the AEM unit in my car, and everything seemed to work well with it. Easy installation, easy to understand and read and the digital readout on the display was nice. I had it installed with the full Link ECU.

The AEM units have also come down in price if you get them from places like horsepowerfreaks.com etc. FM is still the highest price on this unit for some reason.....
 

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I have the AEM Uego as well. I'm not familiar with the MTX-L, but is it as finicky as the LC-1 was? I remember reading quite a few stories of people with mismatched AFRs in Tunerstudio vs the gauge with those things due to less than ideal grounding. My UEGO is grounded and powered from the stereo harness (soon to switch to my DIYPNP breakout harness, woot) and it's been rock solid. IIRC the UEGO has a marginally slower refresh rate than the LC-1.

Anyway, all old tech, dunno about the MTX-L.
 

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The MTX-L is a gigantic improvement over the old POS LC-1. I wouldn't hesitate to run it.

The AFX is a GREAT unit as well. Extremely accurate, but if you want a round gauge, you want a round gauge.

Not round, but i also like the PLX M300s.

One thing to think about, make sure your choice works well with your EMS. I've seen multiple problems with the AEM working with Megasquirt, for example.
 

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Are you referring to the issues where the AFR scaling in Megatune is different from what shows on the gauge? That’s just a problem of people not selecting the linear option when they pick from the list of AFR gauges. User error. I haven’t had an issue with my UEGO with both my MSPNP and DIYPNP.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks again for the replies, guys.

The MTX-L is a gigantic improvement over the old POS LC-1. I wouldn't hesitate to run it.

The AFX is a GREAT unit as well. Extremely accurate, but if you want a round gauge, you want a round gauge.

Not round, but i also like the PLX M300s.

One thing to think about, make sure your choice works well with your EMS. I've seen multiple problems with the AEM working with Megasquirt, for example.
The wideband working with the EMS isn't something I considered, to by honest (bash if you want). I just assumed it'd work, ha. I'm running Xede on my car due to ODB2 inspections, maybe later I'll upgrade to a standalone.

So far, my eye is still mostly on the MTX-L. If I find a good deal, I'll most likely jump the gun and make the purchase.
 

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Are you referring to the issues where the AFR scaling in Megatune is different from what shows on the gauge? That’s just a problem of people not selecting the linear option when they pick from the list of AFR gauges. User error. I haven’t had an issue with my UEGO with both my MSPNP and DIYPNP.

To be honest, you're likely correct. I didn't look into it real far since i had other reasons the Uego wasn't going to work for me. :)

Are both your MS v2.2s?
 

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Thanks again for the replies, guys.



The wideband working with the EMS isn't something I considered, to by honest (bash if you want). I just assumed it'd work, ha. I'm running Xede on my car due to ODB2 inspections, maybe later I'll upgrade to a standalone.

So far, my eye is still mostly on the MTX-L. If I find a good deal, I'll most likely jump the gun and make the purchase.
No bashing here. As Brontosaurus pointed out, i may have just been making things up, iono. :lol:

At least you asked! I get pretty mad when i tell my buddies i'll throw a wideband in their car for them and they bring me an LC-1 without doing their research first. ;) I'm not installing an LC-1 for free.
 

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People who can't install LC-1s, can't read instruction manuals.

Took me a while to get the test circuit right on mine. Because the manual was wrong.

Even then.... it's a dumb amount of work for an outdated dinosaur. There's better, easier and cleaner to install, requires less calibration wbo2s out there for the same price or cheaper.
 

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eh. dont install the test circuit. It's a 3 wire install: power, ground, output.

the uego is ugly, has a horrible refresh rate, horrible smapling rate, and is not programmable.
 

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eh. dont install the test circuit. It's a 3 wire install: power, ground, output.

the uego is ugly, has a horrible refresh rate, horrible smapling rate, and is not programmable.
Heh, i wasn't speaking to the Uego, i don't like that thing either. :p

More details on not installing test circuit? I thought it was necessary for calibration? The test circuit was my biggest beef (also where my manual was wrong). My LC-1 has 7 wires i think... pretty sure i had 3 ground wires. (I just tied them all together, so that doesn't matter, no biggie.)

My second beef didn't have to do with the LC-1 in particular, but i run my LC-1 to an Auto Timer, and the install didn't give an directions on what to do if you wanted to wire it as display only, and not as a turbo timer.
 

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Connect nothing to the black calibration wire. the end.

You'd only use it if you wanted to do a free-air calibration, where the sensor has to be pulled form the exhaust anyways, and pulling the sensor out of the controller does essentially the same thing--since the lc-1 performs a free-sir calibration anytime a "new" sensor is plugged in.

There was never three ground wires. There's a power-red, sensor ground-blue, heater ground-white, calibration-black, output1-yellow, output2-brown.

If you tied the the blue, white, black together the unit will never work as it will be stuck in a loop to calibrate the unit since the black wire is grounded.

Otherwise newer units have combined the white and blue wires so there's only one ground.

1. I dunno why you'd run a turbo timer, 2. I dunno why you'd wire other accesories to it? Does the turbo timer display AFR? is that what you are saying?

if yes, then the manual absolutely outlines how to output to any gauge, and how to program the output to match whatever the device/gauge requires. for example 0-1v & 1-20:1 or 0-5v & 7.35-22.39:1
 

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Connect nothing to the black calibration wire. the end.

You'd only use it if you wanted to do a free-air calibration, where the sensor has to be pulled form the exhaust anyways, and pulling the sensor out of the controller does essentially the same thing--since the lc-1 performs a free-sir calibration anytime a "new" sensor is plugged in.

There was never three ground wires. There's a power-red, sensor ground-blue, heater ground-white, calibration-black, output1-yellow, output2-brown.

If you tied the the blue, white, black together the unit will never work as it will be stuck in a loop to calibrate the unit since the black wire is grounded.

Otherwise newer units have combined the white and blue wires so there's only one ground.

1. I dunno why you'd run a turbo timer, 2. I dunno why you'd wire other accesories to it? Does the turbo timer display AFR? is that what you are saying?

if yes, then the manual absolutely outlines how to output to any gauge, and how to program the output to match whatever the device/gauge requires. for example 0-1v & 1-20:1 or 0-5v & 7.35-22.39:1
Well hell... color me a noob. I didn't know about that calibration feature on the LC-1. I'll be removing my calibration circuit, thanks! :)

I guess i confused the grounds with something else, then... i installed a buttload of stuff at the same time, i dreamed wire diagrams for days. But if white/blue/black were all tied in together... the unit would never send a signal to display, correct? Since it would be stuck in loop?


The turbo timer is an Innovate Auto Timer. Doubles as a wideband display. Getting the output to the Auto Timer wasn't the problem, it was actually that the display itself needs most of the "turbo timer circuit" wired up to even turn on, even if it already has 12v power/ground set to turn on with ignition. Manual said nothing to that extent, took a few calls to get nowhere, ended up figuring it out with a "what if.....?" that i never thought would work. :lol:


I appreciate the learnin'! :)
 

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I've got innovate LC1, it updates super fast. So fast, my friends w/ their AEM and prosport think mine's broken.
 

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I've got innovate LC1, it updates super fast. So fast, my friends w/ their AEM and prosport think mine's broken.
Yes... the refresh rate IS awesome. :) It's faster than my display can handle, i know that much. Luckily the display is just there on the offchance i notice the "oh ****" moments out of the corner of my eye.
 
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