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Discussion Starter #1
Well now that i got a few of yours attention Id like to pick a few brains..

This last weekend id like to note we have a local event called "the balls challenge" where any car can enter and have a weekend of endurance racing. Drag-fri,roadcourse-sat and autox -sun.. To me amazement i took 1st all 3 days. overall domination :lol: guess the car works pretty well now... Finally paying off.. But during the trackday with the 300whp i made friday the stock 1.6 calipers/goodpads/lines left alot to be desired and for next years challenge ill need sme mondo stuff to keep the trophy...

Ive looked at the fm/goodwin setup which seems to be very similiar and also was curious about any other options out there. I WANT THE BADDEST BIGGEST SICKEST SETUP they make.. $2k limit.. I need something to harness the setup now and next year should be closer to 450whp so things will be going alot faster...

Do you think that the setups offered now will give me everything i need and more? The pad swap takes 5 minutes so street driving to track would be no biggy with a simple pad swap. Just wanted a rear caliper to match the front so maybe im missing some jdm brake setup that includes it all...???

Also while im here i think ill be swapping to a willwood incar pedal assembly to eliminate the stuff in the engine bay to clean things up a bit. anyone know anything about such a setup or maybe who to talk to?

Thanks alot guys.. hopefully i can get the baddest setup around for what im looking to spend or maybe a hair over..
 

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The JDM brake packages (Endless, Project Mu, etc) are very expensive. Endless 6 pots are over $2K for just the front. On the low end, A-RF uses stock FC calipers with their adapters, on the other end Garage 1001 uses AP.

I don't understand why I don't see many rear kits though. Brake bias gets even worse with just the fronts. Nielex has a couple, but I'm not sure of the specifics. I think they just use stock calipers with bigger rotors.

I think the Goodwin 4 wheel kit is plenty of caliper and rotor, just pick the pad to suit what you need. There's a guy on .net that adapted the 12.2" Mini Wilwood kit if you want to look into a bit more rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeh i was just wanting to check really... Guess worse case is ya buy the wilwood bias valve to correct things but most havent noticed anything out of the ordinary who do use the stock fm/goodwin setup so hey guess it works..

Mainly wanted something "different" that most people don't see too often to give it that extra style.

I was searching and found bbundy's post about the mini kit.. Guess its not to hard, a little cheaper. Just need to machine a couple things which isnt so bad really for the added size.. Im thinking as well though with the added force and size with a good pad things should be plenty under control which is really all i want... Just a little overkill on brakes never hurts to much.
 

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1.8 brakes, stainless lines, track oriented pads, and GOOD brake fluid should be enough for 99% of people, but if you want your brakes to look snazzy and u have some serious cash do it big and get the Endless kit. I remember reading a competition where all these super tuned cars went up agains each other and in the braking section an MR2 with slightly modefied STOCK brakes posed the shortest distance, and it was the only one without a complete big brake kit.
 

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1.8 brakes, stainless lines, track oriented pads, and GOOD brake fluid should be enough for 99% of people, but if you want your brakes to look snazzy and u have some serious cash do it big and get the Endless kit. I remember reading a competition where all these super tuned cars went up agains each other and in the braking section an MR2 with slightly modefied STOCK brakes posed the shortest distance, and it was the only one without a complete big brake kit.
Sport Compact Car's Ultimate Street Car Challenge. Big brakes DON'T stop you faster. They are just more resistant to brake fade. They proved it again when they put a big brake kit on their project NA. The pad and rotor temperatures went down, but nothing stops you like OEM rotors and good pads. Don't you think the car companies want to build brakes that stop you as fast as possible?
 

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Most bang for the buck see a really cheap whore or you could upgrade to 1.8 brakes aka rotors and calipers , rotors you should buy the best rotor made , thats right Brembos , nuthin else matches them , and you could get cross drilled or slotted or both but for my money blanks work great , now on to pads and no you ain't gotta go to the store for your G/F or wife or whatever , Hawks or Porterfiels , and last butt snot least , get some Castrol LMA brake fluid works great and isn't expensive . Now with all that said I am sure you have a better idea because A) you work at Ford ore you know more than me , ore you think this post is silly but thats for you to decide , just throwin money at your brakes is Ok and I'm sure you can come up with a nice system but why go overboard when the up grades I talked about will yeild great brakes .
 

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yes larger brakes may not stop you any shorter than OEM ones but on a track you want consistancy which in most cases the OEM setup cannot offer.

That being said the 1.8 calipers, some Hawk HP+ pads, braided lines and a good quality Dot4 fluid will go a long way.
 

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As has been previously mentioned big brakes dissipate heat therby preventing brake fade. Drilled rotors are to reduce the mass of the rotor and slots are to allow the gas to escape from between the pad and rotor. I would go with OEM "Big Brakes" 94-97 or the 01+ sports front and rear, ATE Super Blue fluid, braided lines and slotted rotors. As for pads for the auto-x go with Cobalt GT Sports, they require very little heat to bite well. Road course, I'll let the experts chime in on those. HTH.
Chris
 

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I like how Mackin imports goft kart wheels, lasers, light bulbs, and anything else along with the most "JDM" tuner houses. I wonder what they WON'T import.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/21380{2}412{10}63


Just found rotora made a front only setup which isnt ideal but havent seen this before and thought maybe some of you wanted to see.. 13" rotors!!!!!!

waiting for a call back from mackin about the MU brakes...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well looks like the project mu setup takes 3-4 months to get in and on top of that its 2600 for the front only with nothing at all shown for the rears so little delima there...

Hmmm guess goodwin/fm just have it figured and thats all there is to say about that. I know it will work and looks to be the cheapest.

BBundy on miatanet had adopted the mini s race setup on his with minor mods needed and netted a little bigger/better setup for couple hundred less so that be the option as well too..
 

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Personally, I'm with some of the folks here...since you have a 1.6, just upgrade to either 94-00 "standard" brakes or 01-05 Sport brakes (I seem to recall all cars from 03-05 got the big brakes previously only offered with the Sport packages) and a good set of pads, fluid, and maybe stainless lines.

It'd be cheaper than buying some fancypants setup just to be different.

One big worry if you're looking to go for anything bigger than the 94-00 1.8 brakes is that you'll have to worry about wheel clearance. Once you go to 01+ brakes or BBK's, 14" wheels for the most part are now a no-no without modification.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
As some of you have stated about going the bigger 1.8 sports or whatever brakes i don't think read my post... I for one agree with you all that for even upwards of 250whp with good pads and everything sorted the stock calipers and such can make it work.. for a few laps.. They will go away after a few slowly...

Now my car has upwards of 300whp as it sits now. When things get to 450whp and i feel like doing 20-30 minute sessions at a trackday there is NOWAY the stock sports(im guessing mainly the rotors/pads here) can handle that no matter what. Your talking about a car that will be going maybe 35-40mph more into corners from long staights and prolly 20+ more on slower type stuff.. Thats a huge difference in brakes right there. Also with the rest of the car you can see I havent really cut to many corners and if i did they will be addressed here soon as well..

options stand
1. off the shelf goodwin/fm setup 11" rotors front calipers only or panache setup which is same but used rx7 rear calipers...
2. the minicooper race setup which bumps things to 11.5" and also does just the front and minimal rear
3.5k++++ going to a full 4 wheel setup which i don't even know who makes em but endless 4pots are 2600 for the fronts only so im guessing bottom of the barrel would be about 4k and goes up to 10 im sure depending..

See what happens
 

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Well with all that power under your right foot maybe you should call an F1 team and see if you can get one of their set ups , only thing is that they really dust up and would need alot of cleaning , them carbon fiber rotors and pads work purty dman good on thier cars and since they use 13" wheels , you won't have to go through the expenise of buyin new and bigger wheels .

Just a thought .
 

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I know this is off topic, but have you considered the rest of your drivetrain? From what I've read, the stock drivetrain (tranny, diff, driveshafts) starts to give up the ghost at 300rwhp...
 
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