[vote4pedro]

Another roll bar: http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/148611341

I found an M2 1001 Roll Bar a couple weeks ago. Shipping alone was going to be $1k. The 1028 will be quite a bit more due to the bars that go forward to the windshield frame.

Actually the two bars that go to the windshield header attach to the two front top latch points and are removeable for hard top installation.
Even though the whole roll bar is aluminum shipping is high, due to the bulkiness.
I did spot that 1028 RB the other day, but it is not complete, missing the two side braces that run lateral to the seats sides and bolted to the floor pan. Not being anal, but if I were to import one, it had better be complete.
I am leaning toward getting a HD hard bar with diagionals and having the two removeable windshield header braces custom made (thanks for the idea Mr. Woolery), but I would need to get a guesstimate first.

 

[jesseclee]

the attention to details! Are you going to do a dash swap?

 

[vote4pedro]

the attention to details! Are you going to do a dash swap?

I have had a NA6 tan dash sitting in the garage for over a year now - along with a lot of other stuff to put in the interior. I want to repaint the black portion of the dash before it goes in. I just have not had the time to do it.

 

[vote4pedro]

Picked this up recently. A Murakami 1028 shift knob. ONLY difference is that it weighs in @ 280 grams (9.8 oz) & is brass. OEM 1028 knobs were the M2 1001 knobs (light weight aluminum) wrapped in leather. This one is hefty, which I like, and places the OEM 1028 knob into my proverbial M2 box.

 

[etikoner]

Hnnng. Loving this..
take more pictures please

 

[freedomgli]

Nice score on the Murakami knob. For similar reasons I prefer my RS Factory Stage knob because it is very heavy stainless steel, as opposed to the aluminum of the M2-1001 knob.

 

[sss1987]

basically we need more pics! Gorgeous car! beautifully executed!

 

[vote4pedro]

QUOTE=etikoner;984410]Hnnng. Loving this..
take more pictures please [/QUOTE]

basically we need more pics! Gorgeous car! beautifully executed!

Truly, Thank You for the compliments .
I would like to take some more pics, but I am going to wait until I have some more parts put on her. It has gotten to the point where I have to move around some of the larger boxes of parts just to get near my roadster, lol!

 

[vote4pedro]

Nice score on the Murakami knob. For similar reasons I prefer my RS Factory Stage knob because it is very heavy stainless steel, as opposed to the aluminum of the M2-1001 knob.

Agreed. I like the size of the 1028 shift knob, but it had little weight to it. The Murakami knob just feels better.

 

[Stealth97]

Awesome. Pure, clean and simple. <-- thats a good thing, BTW.

 

[etikoner]

Do you plan on changing the steering wheel at any time?

-Also, what strut bar is that? I always get confused with STB and ABS working together...

 

[vote4pedro]

Awesome. Pure, clean and simple. <-- thats a good thing, BTW.

Thanks.
I am attempting to keep things True to the M2 1028 concept.

 

[vote4pedro]

Do you plan on changing the steering wheel at any time?

I have a 1028 wheel and HVAC to go in with my NA6 dash swap.
The M2 HVAC has a different opening for the climate controls compared to standard Miatas/Roadsters.

 

[vote4pedro]

-Also, what strut bar is that? I always get confused with STB and ABS working together...

This particular strut tower bar was part of the 1028 package. Nice piece. Really good solid design. It does not interfere with the ABS, still some room there. The triangular STB's that are also attached to the firewall could cause problems.

 

[vote4pedro]

A CR member had given me a heads up on a 1028 brochure that was being sold. That got me to thinking maybe I should post up some of the brochures and such that I have – M2 1028 related anyway.

 

[freedomgli]

Nice collection there! I saw a set of M2-1028 parts catalogs on YJ and they were not cheap. Maybe one day if/when I ever complete my R&S collection I can start acquiring more M2 stuffs.

 

[revlimiter]

I just wish I lived nearer. My camera's lens would lick your car nearly to death.

 

[alangbaker]

I just wish I lived nearer. My camera's lens would lick your car nearly to death.

What?

...Nebraska, Nevada, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York...

Seems to me you guys are right next door to each other... ...right?

 

[vote4pedro]

I just wish I lived nearer. My camera's lens would lick your car nearly to death.

After the hurricane it could use a bath - lol. I am real glad it is just dirty and not swamped. A WHOLE lotta water around here, makes driving around like running maze.

 

[vote4pedro]

A CR member asked me what I was going to do to the gauge needles to make them similar to the M2 1028 gauges. I have to honestly say that I did not have a clue as to what he was talking about. So, I pulled out the 1028 panel that I have and looked at it. Low and behold, the tach and speedo needles are made exactly like the three on the smaller gauges! (see first picture)
So they will be incorporated into my build. I cannot use the OEM gauges due to the km/h layout, a true shame, but I can still use the M2 gauge needles.

If anyone else is trying to make the 1028 style needles, RS Products sells needle caps that make the factory needles similar to the M2 style. I have a set and took a picture of one with the installed RS Products needle caps. VERY easy to do, just snap off the end and pop the RS Products needle cap on. I was afraid the balance might be off after the end removal, but they work fine once installed for a test fit.