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Thanks, man. That was me who chatted you up about the M2-1028 gauge needles. I'll have to stare at that picture a little bit longer before I decide whether or not to clip the tails off the needles on my setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 · (Edited)
M2 1028 front lip

This got here the other day.
VERY similar to the “B lip” available here in North America.
Only significant difference is that it is a beefier two piece unit made of foam with a urethane skin. I have seen them for a while on original 1028’s, but I could not decide or justify if I wanted it (from what I could tell, I thought it was simply a two piece molded lip with better mounted air ducts).
I found one for a descent price and in amazing shape so I decided to pick it up. It is pretty impressive – as it is more durable than the molded B-lip, with better installation bracketry.
 

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I have the sack you want to ride.
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$275 for that badge, plus shipping out of Japan and import duty taxes, paypal fees, you are looking at $300 USD

I shall pass on this one, LOL
Hell. I can make one with some scrap stainless I have in my garage and my vinyl cutter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Besides adding some Mazda M2 parts, I have also done a few upgrades to the frame and suspension. I wanted to enhance the ride quality without destroying the cars nimbleness for daily use.
I have added several braces to my roadster: FM frame rails (no BF brace) were installed first, which made some of the biggest improvement IMHO. I recommend them to anyone who wants their miata to just feel ‘tighter’.
Next was a Beatrush PPF brace. I cut up the rear factory brace that came on the 94-97’s, removing the center section so I could incorporate the two longer side pieces with the PPF brace. I have not experienced any of the additional noise that I have heard others associate with this brace after it was installed. Along with the PPF brace, I added a Carbing front brace, which joins the front sub frame and the transmission. It is intended to reduce the shake of the shifter and transmission. (Please note that some of the pics are from the net as I cannot get nice pictures with the car up on jack stands).
Currently I have a polished Hard Dog Hard Bar, but I want to swap it out for a as of yet undetermined four point roll bar design. I would like to install something that will compliment my roadsters current M2 1028 styling route.
Finally, the M2 strut bar and rear bulk head brace that I have acquired were finally added.



 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
I like the original 1028 door pulls I am using, but they look unfinished to me.
Just a black screw holding them in place. A satin black Philips head screw to be exact.

I cannot take credit for this mod, but it will make the door look more finished.
I picked up some Porsche door pulls & rosettes. More when I have finished.
 

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Chinchilla Rancher
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Dear lord, that Carbing transmission brace is cool.
I second this! Why isn't this a more common part? I bet everybody and their brother would buy one to get rid of the drivetrain slop our cars are plagued with.
 

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I cannot take credit for this mod, but it will make the door look more finished.
I picked up some Porsche door pulls & rosettes. More when I have finished.
Hmmmm, now where have I seen that before?

Q: How do you plan on fastening the bezel to the door?

A: You need to make a square washer that clips into the back of the bezel and stands proud of the door a little bit. It will also require a low profile screw that doesn't stick up above the washer very much.

Edit: Did you use the bezels used for the door handle actuator, or from the door pull? The pull bezels require the square washer. I think the actuator bezels will work better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 · (Edited)
Hmmmm, now where have I seen that before?

Q: How do you plan on fastening the bezel to the door?

A: You need to make a square washer that clips into the back of the bezel and stands proud of the door a little bit. It will also require a low profile screw that doesn't stick up above the washer very much.

Edit: Did you use the bezels used for the door handle actuator, or from the door pull? The pull bezels require the square washer. I think the actuator bezels will work better.
The rosettes are for the pull straps. The porsche pull straps are longer than the 1028 units. I plan on attaching them (at a similar angle to their current postion) to their original attachment point on the door itself, then feeding the pull strap through the pre-existing door card hole, which will have the rosette attached. There are 2 screw holes on the back of each rosette for attachment of a self tapping screw - which seemed pretty straight forward until your mentioned a square washer. I am unsure what you mean by a square washer, going to have to look into this.

Someone on a Japanese web page did this mod and the results were pretty appealing to me.
 

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If you have the bezel for the red pull (which opens the door on a Porsche) then I believe it has a screw through the back. I haven't used them so I'm not sure. If you have the bezels for the black handle, they do not have any screw bosses. They have small ribs that clip around the square metal handle. To use them with a non-Porsche handle you have to make up a square washer for them to clip around. And they tend to pop off if you don't get the washer spaced the right height off the panel.

Applied Business Concepts is now making a billet version that is supposed to be easier to install and has screw bosses. But, some of the parts also have an exposed fastener.

 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Yes modernbeat, I am using the red strap the dp rosette, which is held by 2 self tapping screws. I think I may have to 'slot' the strap opening for best install and less chance of having the rosette pop due to pulling on the strap.
Thanks for the ABC site, pretty impressive door card package they have, someone should do something similar with handle options for our NA's & NB's.
 

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