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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As of 08/14/2017 current parts list update:

Interior
-Corksport Aluminum Shift Knob
-Moss Miata Visor Delete caps
-Moss Miata trunk blocking plate
-Blackbird Fabworx GT3 rollbar powder coated semi-gloss black
-Kenwood DDX373BT DVD Receiver
-Polk Audio DB652 door speakers
-IL Motorsports redesigned center console
-LLumar Window Tint 5% driver, passenger & visor strip
-Sparco REV seat w/side cushion inserts
-Schroth Flexi Profi II-6 Hans Racing Harness Black
-Seat Belt Collars by Miata Cage
-PCI adjustable seat bracket
-S-Box Quick Disconnect w/ shaft adapter & 1/2" spacer by Miata Cage
-Mazdaspeed steering wheel by MPI

Exterior
-Shorty Raked Antenna
-Moss Miata Turn Signal Intake driver side
-Blackbird Fabworx Lexan Spoiler
-Blackbird Fabworx Tow Hook Sparco Strap
-Flyin' Miata 2" Rear Tow Hook white
-APR Performance Carbon Fiber side view mirrors
-OEM Hardtop painted BMW Gloss Black
-EP style front Air Dam with Dzus fasteners

Engine, Drivetrain & Exhaust
-Magnecor Competition Spark Plug Cables
-Racing Beat Race Pipe
-Fujitsubo RM-01A exhaust
-SuperMiata Urethane exhaust hangers
-Amsoil Dominator Racing fluids
-Shifter Rebuild Kit with 5x Racing Bronze Shifter Bushing
-Walbro HPFP 190LPH
-SuperMiata Crossflow Radiator 50/50 mix with Water Wetter
-A/C Delete
-GarageStar Cooling Plate
-SuperMiata Extended SS Clutch line
-Exedy Master & Slave Cylinder
-Clutch Interlock Bypass

Suspension
-Refreshed Control Arms powder coated Semi Gloss Black
-Energy Suspension Urethane Bushings 88A Black
-Racing Beat Front Sway bar #54107
-SuperMiata Rear Sway Bar 14mm
-SuperMiata Adjustable endlinks
-"R" Package Tie Rods
-XIDA Coilovers 800/500 Gen 2
-SuperMiata Coaxial Billet Mounts

Brakes
-Wilwood Front Dynalite Calipers Red
-Wilwood 11" Front Straight Vane two piece Rotors
-SuperMiata SS Brake lines front/rear
-G-Loc R10 pads front & R8 rear
-Amsoil Dominator DOT4

Wheels & Tire
-949 Racing 6UL Charcoal 15x8 +36
-Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R 205/50r15
-949 Racing 7075 Black Lugs

________________________________________________

Hey Guys I'm new here on this forum. I came from the Mazda3 community, I use to own a '12 Mazda3 sTouring 5dr which visited the track a few times. Currently own a '16 CX-5 AWD GT w/Tech & iActivsense. My first car ever was a NA6, owned it for about a year until i cracked the rear diff. At the time I did not know anything about fixing cars, so it was sold.

Just this past Saturday I was able to find a completely stock, yet clean '96 Montego Blue with just 20 miles shy of hitting 150k. The NA8 ran strong and shifted perfectly fine, only issues was a leaky valve cover, dry rotted tires and alignment.






When I brought it home, first thing to go was the Nardi shift knob. I was able to replace it with my old CorkSport shft knob that was from my old MZ3. The wood knob is still in great condition, just needs to be reglued.



It also came with a Classic Carriers Luggage rack, again that came off as well. In the tunk was the soft top cover that looks brand new.




After going through the car I did basic vacuuming and cleaning.




Tomorrow I'll be getting new tires for the stock size wheels that are currently on, plus alignment. I also ordered a couple parts from MossMiata and the Mazda Dealership, which should be arriving tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
So this morning new tires were installed. I know these are not the best tire Barum Brillantis 2 185/60r14 but Americas tire only had a small selection available in the 185/60s. For now these will do for the time being. Immediately after installation cruised over to Evans Tire for an alignment, turns out my front right toe was out of wack.



Ohh even though I barely got this car, it hurts me to break 150k miles. Haha



Couple items came in this afternoon from Moss Miata, Valve Cover Gasket, Trunk Shield Plate and Sun Visor delete caps. The shield plate is actually pretty sturdy, I like how the carpet covers that area as well. Although just need to add a small piece of Velcro to the plate and carpet to keep it in place, currently it is flopping downward.




And of course these are the Visor delete covers.




After my buddy arrived we started to tackle the valve cover. Originally there was signs on leakage along the front and left sides and from the PCV valve. Got the cover off and cleaned it good for now. At some point we decided to replace the Spark Plugs just for the heck of it since we had everything off. Picked up a set of NGK G-Power Platinum Plugs as well as a new PCV valve and gasket.




After all said and done, she fired right up just fine.

Tomorrow my Amsoil fluids should be arriving, looking to replace all fluids next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
So ever since I got the car the driver side speaker has been cutting in and out. The passenger side plays fine, just a blown speaker. The last few days it started to bother me, so today after work I decided to investigate. And this is what I found... SMH...



Well it was obvious where the problem was, incorrect speaker size, bolted all ghetto with the connecting wires all jacked up. So I unscrewed the damn POS speaker and trashed it. Then I got this inkling to check the passenger side just in case. Well again another SMH moment...

Trashed!!! I'd rather listen to the engine and road noise than those damn things.
Well, looking on the bright side my Amsoil fluids came in. But that will be a next weekend project.

 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Alright been awhile since the last update.

Couple weeks ago changed out all my fluids with Amsoil product to get a baseline of everything. Although I didn't change the brake fluid quiet yet, I plan on ordering a brake kit soon. Also last week I placed an order for a black GT3 roll bar from Moti at Blackbird Fabworx.

Anyways, today I went for a nice little cruise up to my brothers place where I have a NA6 parts car stored away. Eventually the car will be fully stripped down over time, body panels, motor and trans will go to my father who just picked up a NA6 SM. But this time I just came up to rip out the control arms. Currently on my car, from the control arms to the hub is full of surface rust. Since the control arms from the parts car are in way better condition, they will replace the ones on my car.





So Monday the bushing will be pushed out then sent to be cleaned and powder-coated. Then of course new bushings will go in when I decide which aftermarket ones I want.



Side Note: Does any one know a reputable shop that does corner balancing in North County San Diego?
 

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nice. you reminded me that my drivers door speaker is lousy - probably similar crap instal as was on yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So this past weekend I had a shop press out all the bushings for cheap. Now the arms are at North County Powder Coating getting covered in semi gloss Black.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Today was a good day, super excited actually.

Got a call from the powder coating shop that the arms were done early. So this afternoon I cruised on over during my lunch to pick the arms up. Now I did not unwrap all from the paper covering, but my god they feel so nice, way better than before.




Shorty after I received an email from 949R that my Xidas and other items were ready for pick up, I immediately headed over after work.



Can't wait to install everything next week!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Yesterday, I got a start on the suspension swap, we started at the rear because it was the easiest. Although at first the passenger rear took longer than the driver rear because we ere trying to figure out the easiest way to install everything. Once we finished up the the passenger we immediately moved to the driver rear.







Once we got to the front we started to work both sides. We were able to brake every rusted bolt loose, then attempted to pop off the ball joints... unfortunately that did not go as planned. Using a pickle fork and ball joint separator rented from Pepboys, the tools were useless. Of course we wasted an entire can of PB Blaster to aid the severely rusted joints, hammering away didn't do us much good either.

After several hours of failed attempts, we decided to call it day and try again the next. Did some more research last night on a more efficient way to knock the joints loose. I found that a lot of people use the ball joint separator from Harbor Freight. So this morning made my way to HF for the tool and then to Home Depot for more PB Blaster.

Before started again I hit everything with the PB. I began at the tie-rod and gave the tool a shot. After a little bit of torquing on the separator and hitting the arm with a ball-ping hammer it finally popped off. Some excitement and cheering followed, I was so relieved. I jumped right back to it with the other joints, they popped off as well. I do have to say the separator worked well, it's a tool for life.

After some cleaning of the knuckle I began to install the new arms and coils. Everything buttoned up nicely in the end.





Now i just have to wait till tomorrow to install new R-Package tie-rods, which should be arriving tomorrow.

New wheels on Tuesday!
 

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Man, I absolutely know the feeling of joy you get when some dumb stuck part that's holding up something simple FINALLY breaks free

Feels good man

If you run into more dumb rusted stuff, I've heard powersteering fluid and acetone is the bees knees

I've yet to try it myself, though since everything down south is happily rust free, haha
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Man, I absolutely know the feeling of joy you get when some dumb stuck part that's holding up something simple FINALLY breaks free

Feels good man

If you run into more dumb rusted stuff, I've heard powersteering fluid and acetone is the bees knees

I've yet to try it myself, though since everything down south is happily rust free, haha
Thanks for the tip, only surface rust areas were the control arms, tie rods, endlinks and knuckle. I cleaned the areas of contact on the knuckle as best as I could, so far looks promising.

Dang! Nice job on the suspension refresh. Some baller parts going in there.
Thanks I appreciate it. Although I need to get back under there and do thorough cleaning of the new parts, everything got dirty during the install.
 

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Nice to see another SoCal enthusiast! Nice coils, I've been trying to get my hands on a set as well! I also have a parts car if you need anything oem.

Edit** realized you already have a parts car lol
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Woke up a little late this morning, but was able to get the new Tie-Rods in just before work.

old...


New..


So after about 3 days worth of work and the car being on stands, I'm glad everything is done. Time to set it down and fine tune everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Been a few days, was able to adjust the ride height accordingly. Front: 4.5" from pinch welds and 4.75" rear. Still on stock tires for now, but got a basic alignment for the time being. First drive on the Xidas was pretty rough, was set at full stiff. Drove around more and played with the setting down to full soft and back. Currently set at 3 clicks above soft.




Although not sure if I should raise it just a tad, maybe another 0.25" all around? So far no clearance issues.

I did get my wheels in finally but will have to wait till next week to install. For now I think I am going to leave the height as is until I get the wheels mounted and see where I stand.




Oh Magnecor Cables went in as well.

 
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