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Discussion Starter #1
I have some different opinions regarding sway bars on a drift setup. Most seem to say to either stay with the stock rear sway bar or to remove it completely but I haven't really found anything regarding the front bar that is specific to a drift car.

This car is a purpose drift car and not a daily driver at all. It will be trailered to the track and back.

I've already ordered the sway bar blocks but I'm not sure which bar to go with or if I should keep my stock one.
 

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Honestly, it would be best if you took it out to an event and did it the old fashioned way of trial and error.
Everybody's different man, and suspension's one of those thing you kinda have to try out for yourself.

I'm kinda in the same boat, but with autocross. My NB still has both OEM sways, and most people just say 'just get a bigger racing beat front sway' and call it good, but next event I'm going to try going without a rear bar. And really if it feels good without a rear sway to me, then I'd probably just not worry about going with a bigger bar. It's just one of those things you really have to just go out and try for yourself, to be honest, its kinda hard to judge without actually driving the car.

You could be perfectly happy going out and shredding with both bars, attached, or with just the oem rear bar removed with the stock front on. If you feel like the car is still too snappy/twitchy no matter what, THEN I'd try the bigger racing beat one.

Experimenting with the oem setup is free, too. So theres that, before dropping coin on a bigger front.
 

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OP- I slid my old NA just fine with stock bars and budget Bilsteins on 550/350's. It was still kind snapy but I made it work for the occasional drift.

Other dude- my current NB is on Bilsteins and 550/350's with a 1" Flyin Miata front bar. I played the with various combo options I could run and ended up with the from bar at it's stiffer setting and a rear bar disconnected. It still gets a little tail happy so I'm setting to 600lb springs up front. Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think that's probably my best bet. I've upgraded every other suspension component other than tube control arms and I haven't decided if I want the R tie rod ends or the SPL tie rods. I should just see how it handles with those changes and the stock sways before anything else. The only reason I asked is I'm sending it off to be blasted and powder coated but if the consensus was that I should get a different one then I'd just skip the powder coat and order a new one.

Once everything is back together I'll take it out for some skids and see how it does before I do anything else.

Off topic but are the rear upper adjustable control arms worth it? That's the only other component I haven't upgraded.
 

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For tire wear, yeah.
These cars are kinda dumb and if you run at cool low heights you'll have a ton.
A cheaper option is doing what s-chassis guys do with their front arms, and chop and extend the rears out.
I was going to do that, but I liked the adjustability of the SPL arms in the odd chance I wanted more camber in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For tire wear, yeah.
These cars are kinda dumb and if you run at cool low heights you'll have a ton.
A cheaper option is doing what s-chassis guys do with their front arms, and chop and extend the rears out.
I was going to do that, but I liked the adjustability of the SPL arms in the odd chance I wanted more camber in the rear.
I appreciate that. I'll order a set tonight. I wasn't going to go with the SPL ones initially but if I decide to order their tie rods then I may as well get these too. There seems to be a lot of options for the rear upper CA's and most of them look the same (even the eBay ones) but those SPL ones look a lot different.

No front bar. Stock rear.
Weird. I have heard the exact opposite (no rear, stock front) but never heard this configuration before.
 

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If you compare an OEM upper arm, to an ebay one, you'll see that the ebay one is completely flat, whereas, the OEM one bends in the middle. Basically when the suspension is working, you have clearance for it to move up and down and not bang into the part jutting down right above it, vs. the ebay one hitting it and breaking. Happened to someone once.
The SPL one is angled up to replicate what the OEM arm was doing and basically give it clearance to work.
 

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You won't know what works best for you until you use it.

For me I don't think the sway bars are all that meaningful, as I'm using dynamic drifting most of the time.

Power into the turn, then clutch in to initiate the drift.

I found that the steering angle was the first thing I wanted to change.

Take it out and drift it, then when you have a feel for how it behaves you'll be able to make better decisions.
 

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the few florida miata drifters i know run no front and stock or upgraded rear with adjustable end links. Seems to work pretty well for them, but all preference.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You won't know what works best for you until you use it.

For me I don't think the sway bars are all that meaningful, as I'm using dynamic drifting most of the time.

Power into the turn, then clutch in to initiate the drift.

I found that the steering angle was the first thing I wanted to change.

Take it out and drift it, then when you have a feel for how it behaves you'll be able to make better decisions.
Steering angle was one of the first things I did. Immediately after buying the car I did drift knuckles, extended lower ball joints, adjustable tie rods front and back, coil overs, new brakes, and I replaced the upper control arms in the front. Still debating on the tie rod solution but I will probably go with the SPL setup. I will most likely go with the upper arms in the back too. Oh, and I replaced all the bushings with the Energy Suspension ones.

the few florida miata drifters i know run no front and stock or upgraded rear with adjustable end links. Seems to work pretty well for them, but all preference.
I will have stock bars with adjustable end links when I first go out. Then I will see how it does and make any adjustments from there.

I appreciate the feedback guys! You will certainly be seeing more posts from me regarding opinions on other items.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you compare an OEM upper arm, to an ebay one, you'll see that the ebay one is completely flat, whereas, the OEM one bends in the middle. Basically when the suspension is working, you have clearance for it to move up and down and not bang into the part jutting down right above it, vs. the ebay one hitting it and breaking. Happened to someone once.
The SPL one is angled up to replicate what the OEM arm was doing and basically give it clearance to work.
Are you referring to the NA or the NB? I always thought they were the same but last night I removed my rear upper control arms and to my surprise they were not bent in the middle at all. The rear bolt holes and the front one are perfectly inline with each other and the bracket itself is entirely straight. I was really thrown off because I had read your post only a few minutes before I went out to work on the car.

However, I did notice all the aftermarket ones were angled up and the eBay ones were not. Very interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Bend was a bit of a bad word
But this is what I mean
That little divot in the middle there
That is a great image, thank you! I did notice that the other brands were angled up so that's what I was looking for, but your image explains it perfectly. Good thing I asked before I bought it.
 
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