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Discussion Starter #1
Tech Day / Open House at my shop in Lake Forest
Saturday August 11th, 9am

I'll have an Eastwood fender roller and heat guns, $5 per fender
Wheel balancing, Miata wheels only, $5 each
Fill tires with nitrogen, free
OBDII scan, free
6UL wheel test fitting
other miscellaneous projects
Vendors welcome

Location:
949Racing
26242 Dimension Dr #130
Lake Forest, CA 92630
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Discussion Starter #6
It's looking like Saturday August 11th, 9am.

I don't see anything else much happening that day.
I'll be doing some other projects:
Building a simple front undertray for an NA
Corner weighting and aligning two cars
Brake bleeding
Track prep clinic (how to make your car fast)
And if we get ambitious, doing a stock 5 to 6 speed trans & race clutch/flywheel conversion in under an hour.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Most of the little projects will be on my little fleet. We may enlist other victims on the spot, who knows. Fender rolling is easy so no appointment needed. In fact, you'll be doing most of the work ;)
 

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The 11th is the day before my wife's due date. So I probably won't make it. But if things are ....uh... postponed, then I'll show up.

What are you making your undertray/front splitters out of? My carbon fiber/nomex honeycomb one delaminated. a cheaper alternative would be nice...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Matt [exz3owner said:
@ Mon Jul 16, 2007 4:09 pm]The 11th is the day before my wife's due date. So I probably won't make it. But if things are ....uh... postponed, then I'll show up.

What are you making your undertray/front splitters out of? My carbon fiber/nomex honeycomb one delaminated. a cheaper alternative would be nice...
Congrats! I didn't know you two were expecting. That's wonderful.

The previous experiments were GP ABS. Kinda weak but they worked. Form grade ABS is a little stronger. My splitter is HDPE which is a little dense but the failure mode is tearing, not cracking and it's very abrasion resistant. The fallback is .049 6061 T6 sheet. Not glamorous but it works and is of course, very easy to work with.

The splitter is much thicker than the trays of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This batch of 6UL's arrives at the end of August. Everyone local picking up their wheels & tires and a tech day would be chaos.
 

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thanks, Emilio. In about 16 years, I'll have a co driver. He's going to be born into a go cart. :p

So what are you attaching your splitter to? The front bumper? My last one was attached to an aluminum skeleton which attached to the frame. You could stand on it. When the splitter came apart, it ripped the frame up, but atleast the front bumper was still on the car. Do you have another solution for mounting than just bolting it to the bumper?

The "removal" also removed my aluminum radiator shroud. SO I need to build a new one. would the material you are using for the undertray work for this? Where is your undertray running? Sounds like I might want one. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The splitter on the '91 is fairly high off the ground and not huge so it's attached to the bottom of the bumper skin through the 5m nutserts that hold the front of the stock tray. It'll support about 80 lbs I guess. Tray is attached to the front subframe in back and bumper skin in front. The tray doesn't see a lot of load so it can be mounted petty much the way the stocker is.

The splitter planned for the turbo is a bit more elaborate. It'll be right on the ground and extened further so it'll need to support maybe 200lbs. Plan is a simple triangulated set of braces. Two going straight back to the subframe and two going up to the bottom of the radiator support. Resting against but completely independent of the bumper skin other than a few screws to locate relative to the skin.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Matt,

What made your splitter come apart? Aero load, flutter or hard contact with something? The material APR used should have been nearly ideal and you had a rigid frame from the sound of it.

General purpose and form grade ABS aren't heat resistant at all but exceedingly easy to work with. I started making a shroud of the GP ABS but decided to go to to aluminum sheet for the strength and heat resistance. I like plastic on the bottom for it's abrasion resistance, formability, light weight and more desirable failure mode.

The failure mode of honeycomb like you had is kinda catastrophic so you have to be damn sure it'll hold up. But that's race car fabrication in general, you tolerate ugly failure modes to save weight. Being a rental, I'm willing to give up some weight and ultimate strength to make it easy to service and cheap.

The turbo time attack car will be a bit more like your car.
 
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