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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Holy hell has it been a while. Two years plus. I figured I’d make a new thread here this time because...idk. I figure I’d at least continue where I left off.

Back in 2018, I found out my car had a few shorts. I pulled the dash, the front chassis harness through the firewall (the one with the MAF), and went through the whole rear harness. Found a short in the ECU, the taillights, and the license plate lights.Then I got frustrated and left it, while depression slowly consumed me. Now I’m medicated, and finally getting back at it.

And I might be regretting it. As I started working on it again, I double checked my fuses to make sure I didn’t have any other shorts. I did. These wiring diagrams were very helpful. The fuel pump, starter solenoid, cam angle sensor, igniter, and Circuit Opening Relay all showed ground when the test light was hooked up to power. Also the signal wire to the relay I am using at the fuel pump, which I believe was the original power wire for the fuel pump. Might just bypass that altogether and run my own switch for the relay.

I’m not entirely certain that any of the above parts are supposed to show ground the way they did, but I’m pretty sure your not supposed to see any ground at the fuses. So now I’m out looking for new parts. And trying to remember where everything thing is supposed to plug in. And trying to remember how the HVAC cables connected. And cleaning up the mess it became from sitting around. And trying to find my damn MAF. Where the hell did I put that thing?

If you have any wiring questions, don’t be afraid to ask. I have easy access to most of them right now. If you see any errors in my testing methods or findings, don’t be afraid to let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I will open with the following statement:
Despite being smart, I can be pretty stupid.

Turns out I need to account for the efficiency of the LED in my test light when checking for shorts. As I was going through the wire harness, again, it occurred to me that I could use my multi-meter to see how many amps each “short” was. Turns out most of these circuitsthat showed ground with my (LED) test lightwere pulling less than 0.1 amps. The highest reading I got was 2 amps on the starter circuit, when cranking. I haven’t checked the fuel pump yet.

So lesson learned:
LEDs are efficient enough to light up on less than a tenth of an amp at 12v, and I’m stupid enough to not realize it until two years later.

At least I used this as an opportunity to remove the rest of the non-operational airbag system.
 
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