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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I suppose this is as good a place as any to start a build thread. The title explains it all. I'm not sure where to begin. I'm not even sure how I got here. I hope to make 200 horsepower naturally aspirated with a BP6D, and I'm pretty confident I will do so.

Before I dive into the hole that I just threw a hand grenade into, lets get a little background information about the car out of the way first.

The car, is a 1992 NA6, which currently has a poorly built BP4W in it running MS3. Ill spare you the in depth details of this motor or how I arrived at this point. The BP4W was built for boost and instead received a set of Jenney ITBs. I need to start an entirely separate post regarding my general apathy toward the Jenvey ITB "kit", but this is not the time or place.

While there is a long history with this car, it is easiest that we just begin here with the 4W and the ITBs.

Before we get started with the utter nonsense to follow, I would like to take a moment to thank my good friends Andrew and Kindred. Without these guys, I absolutely would not be here writing this post.

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
With that out of the way lets move onto the BP6D. The original plan was to replace the oil burning BP4W in the car with a junkyard BP6D. This bump in compression and added bonus of VVT was a cheap and easy way to quit burning oil and add some power in the process. See below for some pictures of my foolproof junkyard engine test fitted with the Jenveys.
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Discussion Starter #3
The major mistake - taking the junkyard engine apart to inspect the internals. It would have been fine, and would have made decent power while burning much less oil in the process. Not sure what I was expecting. This is when I believe I lost all bearing on what I was doing in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Moving on to the subject of this post. Attached are the photos of where we are going. Instead of a light engine refresh, I absolutely sent it. Please keep the K swap rabble rabble to yourself.
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Discussion Starter #5
The photos above show the motor that I had Keegan Engineering build for me. Keegan knows a thing about the BP. Per the request of Keegan, I will not be sharing the specifics of the cams.

Engine Details
-CNC Head
-Full Supertech Valve Train
-Custom Cams (Big)
-85mm Wossner Pistons - 12:1 CR
-Carrillo A Beam Rods
-Lightened and Balanced Crank
-ARP Main Studs
-Some other things
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I plan to update this thread as I progress further with this project, thanks for stopping in.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I was able to get some very rare time between engineering exams to start working on getting the engine out of the car. Started with getting the ITBs out of the way.
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Comparing the ITBs to the CNC head, I'm definitely going to have to have these sent to Keegan to be port matched.
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Discussion Starter #14
An unintended pro of ITBs is how easy they are to remove and how much access you have to all of the annoying and hard to reach stuff. I would even go as far as to suggest that if it is your first time pulling an engine out, that it would be worth it to go through the trouble of removing the stock intake manifold. It can be overwhelming if you haven't done it before and with the intake manifold out of the way, you have an excellent view of everything you need to disconnect. So much room for activities.
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Discussion Starter #15
I had the engine pulled out way quicker than expected. New PR of about 5 hours from start to engine out. It helps to not have A/C or power steering, and to have done it a time or two prior.
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With the engine out of the car it was time to cannibalize it for a couple parts, mainly the ARP head studs and the Boundary Engineering oil pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I mentioned previously that this engine had been burning oil, lots of oil. So much so that it earned the nickname "Valdez", (Thanks Rich). Apologies to everyone at Miata's at the Gap that had to drive behind it.

This motor was rebuilt from a BP4W that had spun a bearing. In hindsight this was really dumb, I should have just started with a running engine. My theory now is that it spun a bearing due to running out of oil from bad valve guides. The valve guides weren't replaced when I took this to the machine shop. Oh well, you live and you learn. Marvel at the absolute carnage of car quest oil consumption. This only has two track days and about 5000 miles on it.
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I think this Wideband served its purpose valiantly.

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To make matters worse, I discovered that the machine shop had removed these dowel pins that aid in head gasket alignment. I hadn't realized it and assembled it without them.
Dowels.JPG

Again, you live and you learn.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Lets see if you can pick which one of these cylinder heads came from a junkyard and has 140,000 miles on it, and which one has 5,000 miles on it and was "refreshed" by a machine shop.
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The one that looks like it lived in a coal mine is the 5000 mile head. Sigh.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
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After pulling the transmission off, i noticed something off about one of the transmission bolts.
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That's the second or third bolt that has stretched like that. Maybe ill quit reusing transmission bolts from parts cars and just buy some new ones.

I love this FM crank tool and I always forget I have it until I need it.
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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
There always seems to be some bizarre source of oil on the bottom of this engine, even after redoing all of the seals.

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Once I had the oil pump out the culprit became more clear.
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I searched around for similar issues, and it seems that the Boundary supplied Allen plug is notorious for leaking. Apparently the solution is to just replace it with the plug from the OEM pump. Pretty ridiculous problem to have for a pump that cost as much money as this did.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
After stealing the oil pump off of the old engine, I threw in an old OE pump to seal it up and put it on a dolly so it can be wheeled around. Hopefully I can put this pile of garbage somewhere that I don't have to look at it.
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