Not sure why the 36-2 trigger wheel from FM wont fit the fluid damper, but will fit the OE damper. i called them and told them about the issue a while back, and they didn't seem worried about it. Oh well.
The main bearing support plate i had Keegan machine to clear the ARP main studs finally showed up, that means i can finally seal up the oil pan. One last look at the bottom end before it gets covered up.
I had hoped Keegan would have retained the middle two mounting supports for the MBSP, not sure exactly why he felt the need to remove the gussets entirely. It kind of defeats the purpose of the MBSP. Oh well.
Debatably the most important gasket in the entire motor.
Brand new oil pick up, this is getting way too professional for me.
A ton of RTV and some patience later, the oil pan is finally on for good. I like to put the oil pan on, and then tighten the bolts down just enough to start to feel some resistance, then wait about an hour or so while the RTV sets. Ive learned my lesson with leaky oil pans (as the screen name suggests), and have had much better luck torquing bolts to spec in multiple increments. After an hour i torque to 1/3 of the spec, another hour, 2/3 of the spec, and then the next day finish up with the final 3rd of the spec. This is a good time to have a victory beer.
I love getting to use the inch pounds torque wrench.
After the final torque was applied to the pan, i grabbed the FM crank tool and connected it to the crank with a flywheel bolt, and to the oil pan with a transmission bolt. In order to torque the front crank bolt that secures the fluid damper to spec, you have to keep the motor from rotating over while tightening.
Charlie posted some photos of the valve cover he's working on for me. The AN fittings look awesome. The valve cover is getting powder coated and should be in the mail soon. Once the valve cover gets here, the engine should be coming off of the stand very soon.
Coil on plug kit from Advanced Engine Dynamix. It looks absolutely amazing. Toby from AED is great, the wiring harness he made looks top notch, and going to sequential ignition will be a breeze. The harness he made is far better than anything i could replicate myself. The work was so good that i'm having him make my injector harness as well.
Time to attach the 6 speed. I like to get the engine leveled out and raised up, and then put the transmission on a height adjustable stool. Once you get the height of the transmission and the engine pretty close to each other, you can then use the weight of the engine to help drive the transmission home by pushing the transmission against the hanging engine. This beats trying to wiggle the transmission into place while it's on the ground.
After scratching the powder coat up with the hoist already, i wasn't going to take anymore chances and taped everything up as best as possible. Lesson learned, wait to do the valve cover until the engine is in the car.
Back to the project, Im working on wiring for the injector harness. Adding VVT and going from batch injection to sequential injection means that the signals for injector 1 and 2 get connected to the factory harness, and the signal wires for injectors 3 and 4 plus the signal wire for the VVT solenoid get sent to the options plug on the ECU.
I dont have enough faith in my limited wiring experience to trust my work, so I'm nailing down the lengths i want for everything and how i want it routed, then my "harness" will be sent to Toby at AED so he can make me a real motorsport grade harness.