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Discussion Starter #222
@Bryan: I can see how that can be annoying BUT I think you would put them after removing them and feeling the difference without them.
 

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Discussion Starter #223
06-10-19: First my thoughts/observations on the delrin door bushings. They made MUCH more of a difference on Misfire then they did on Warbird BUT given the amount of bracing(mentioned in my previous post on the door bushings) Warbird had plus the Fat Cat Motorsports coilovers this doesn't surprise me.

The biggest difference is the noise when you go over bumps/potholes/etc. where as before there was all kind of rattles, no you just here the suspension working(not very well in this case) and feel the bump.

Misfire "feels" more rigid and while some might doubt this when you think about what the OEM bushing was doing, allowing the door to be a flex point, and now with the delrin door bushing greatly reducing that flex point on the chassis then it makes sense. I definitely recommend these for ANYONE just be aware that the doors do require more effort to close but it is a trade off that is well worth it, IMHO.

Now on to the reason for the post today. A little over a month ago I bought back a part from Warbird's part out, which I THOUGHT was the 949 Racing rear subfame brace as it works on a NA or NB. When the package shows up it was in a square box that said Beatrush.

Apparently there was a miscommunication and I got the Beatrush PPF brace which turns out is NA specific and was about a 1" or so too long as I can only presume the NA PPF is shorter.

No big deal. I sold the Beatrush NA PPF brace and was trying to get the NB version and when talking to Goodwin Racing I found out they made a version of their own in their Roadstersport line, had it in stock and it was over $20 cheaper, so I ordered it and it showed up a few days later.


Right away I noticed that the welds look MUCH better than the Beatrush version which had pretty lousy looking welds where as the Roadstersport has "dime stacks". I know many don't think this matters but hey if I am paying for it then I want it as aesthetically pleasing as possible. Beyond that and the color they essentially are indistinguishable.

I wasn't fond of the silver and already had plans to use a similar gold hue to what Beatrush uses on various parts so I pressed out the bushings and sleeves from the Roadstersport PPF brace....


...and then took it to work and used the media blasting booth to blast it.


Then I took it to the powder coating shop that my work uses and I had already identified a color that I wanted to use.




The color is called "Sun Gold" and comparing it to pics and my memory it looks identical to the color Beatrush uses.

Installing the brace was just a matter of getting Misfire on jack stands, removing the two 19mm bolts from the rear subframe/ladder brace and the two 17mm bolts that go thru the PPF brace.

For whatever reason the brace didn't want to line up as easily as I thought it had on Warbird but I found that by first starting the PPF bolts and then the rear subframe braces it went in but still took some manual alignment to get the rear subframe bolts started.

If it wasn't for the alignment issue it would be a 30 minute job start to finish. Now for some more pics!










Again no driving time yet so will report back with some feedback on the PPF brace once I have some miles with it on Misfire.
 

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Oh you've been bussssssssy, nice work!

Maybe I missed it, did you ever end up figuring out your "misfire" issue, or still happening and just dealing with it?
 

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Discussion Starter #225
@Crazyblackman: More like slow and steady, Dedin, but thanks! :) Thankfully yes, several weeks later. Lousy wiring to the fuel card for injector #2.
 

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Discussion Starter #226 (Edited)
07-30-19: Misfire and I have started a new adventure, involving these items(plus alot more as money allows).




The starting tools/supplies of GreaseMonkey Detailing! I have always wanted to start a business but I am certainly nervous! Decided Misfire should be my first customer so after about 10 hours of detailing that including the following:

Exterior
-Rinse(x3), foam, wash, clay(including glass, on both sides), a coat of wax with a DA on the paint(3hrs right there), a coat of Xpress spray wax on paint, dressing on the tires, Xpress spray wax on wheels, polish exhaust tips and muffler, hydrophobic coating on all glass and soft top, dressing on trim/rubber

Motor
-Wash, clean, apply a dressing to the engine(plastic, rubber and bare metal), apply hydrophobic coating to paint

Interior
-Vacuum(x2), agitate/clean with APC, steam clean and apply a dressing to all surfaces(minus carpet as I only had one can of fabric guard)

Here are SOME(took over 30 pics) of the before/after pics:







[/url]




I have a whole new appreciation for TRULY detailing a vehicle because in all honesty I have never performed this extensive of a vehicle detail, ever. Thankfully with the help of professional detailers and their YouTube videos I have collected a good amount of information in the 30+hours of videos I have watched and hopefully learned a lot, which will hopefully reduce the instances of "learning the hard way".

Misfire in all honesty has been neglected far more than Warbird as Misfire wasn't as well taken care of previously so I just didn't get as concerned with keeping Misfire as clean as I tried to keep Warbird.

I plan to attempt to keep Misfire up much better than I have because I really don't have a excuse now that I have most of things I need to do so and the fact Misfire is garaged. I tip my hat to all of you out there that keep up your vehicles constantly, definitely not a easy task.
 

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Discussion Starter #228 (Edited)
11-04-19: Wow over three months since a update! Well unfortunately nothing had happened in that time frame. :(

Although I wanted to comment that the full interior/exterior detail lasted over two months with just weekly wipe downs, thanks to a combination of garaging and my relatively low miles I put on Misfire. My wife has been driving Misfire the last few weeks so another full detail is in order and I believe some minor paint correction is in order.

So the reason for this post is due to the passenger side brake light going out. I had removed the taillight to check before ordering because I couldn't recall if I had LED's or incandescent bulbs installed. I found that it was a LED bulb and still worked but was "dying".

I had been looking at a "strobe/pulse" module for the rear brake lights to add a little more "rear end deterrent" when I came across LED bulbs that had this feature built in so it was a win-win. Thankfully Amazon Prime got me the bulbs here by the next business day.


Alla Lighting LED strobe brake bulbs. They pulsate three times then stay on unless you release and reapply the brakes.


Alla Lighting LED strobe bulb vs old LED bulb.

As you can see the new bulb has twice as many side bulbs which are the running lights, unfortunately this doesn't help Misfire any as I currently have the wire for the running lights unhooked since I have the LED halo rings as running lights.

I couldn't get the video to work properly thru Flickr for some reason but here it is on Instagram: http://instagr.am/p/B4eFQSTnHcs/
P.S.-I am going to try and keep up Misfire's build thread but I CAN'T STAND the new format of this forum and will more than likely only come back to update the build thread. So my apologies to everyone else as I doubt I will visit beyond doing this and it certainly is nothing against anyone but this forum is being killed, imo.
 

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Discussion Starter #230
Haven't been CR much lately, good to see you back in a Miata. You've cleaned it up a lot.
Long time, no post! Glad to see you on! Thanks, I appreciate it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #231
12-02-19, Mileage- 121,410: A few months(3-4) back i was checking Misfire out and noticed that the clutch master reservoir was a bit low(probably by about 1/3 from full) so I picked up some brake fluid, topped off and have kept my eye on it since.

I think I would have to add some about every other month, maybe 30% of the reservoir so I knew i needed to get a master and slave cylinder. Well in the past week and a half it had gotten to the point to where it needed about half the reservoir filled every day. :suicide:

You think at this point I would have ordered them right? Nope. Stupid me waited until it got to the point where it would empty itself in one drive. of course this was last Wednesday...the day before Thanksgiving.

I went to order it from Amazon, nope couldn't find either that would ship next day with Prime. I then checked with Rock Auto and couldn't get them till 12/02 or 12/03 with regular ground shipping.

So i checked online with a local parts store and they had both and with a online coupon ended up being only about $8 more than Rock Auto but they weren't Exedy like I wanted. Of course I waited too late to get them that day and I thought they were open part of the day on Thanksgiving as they were last year but nope.

To make a long story not quit as long, I didn't get around to doing it today. With new parts now in hand, i got into it.


Upon closer inspection of the exterior and interior firewall where the master cylinder mounts, it was clear it had been leaking.

You can see the bubbling paint around it, I totally don't recall seeing this before.


I don't recall seeing this before either when I replaced the rubber clutch pedal stops.

Once I removed the master cylinder it was clear that it was bad.


My oldest and youngest granddaughters was at my house and of course Onyx(oldest, 5yrs old) wanted to help as she always does ANYTIME I am working in the garage.


Not long before her youngest sister June(2 yrs old) wanted to join in on the fun.


Funny thing the middle girl, Opal(3 yrs old), was watching me upload the pictures on Flicker and asked if she could help next time as she wasn't here then. Back on the subject at hand.

With the old master cylinder off, I took the new one and filled it with brake fluid and "bled it" by placing my finger over the outlet hole and using a screwdriver to press the "piston" a few times till fluid started to push out and then installed and reused the old "gasket" for what it was worth.


Moving onto the slave cylinder I got Misfire up on a jack stand and removed the front passenger wheel to get easier access to it, behold the only note worthy rust on Misfire.

One reason I love living in Texas, typically cars are rust free.


Swapped in the new slave cylinder and put on some Shin Etsu grease on the end for good measure.


Upon inspecting the old slave cylinder, I removed the boot and filthy brake fluid poured out right into my lap...well that was dumb of me but honestly wasn't expecting it as both my previous slave cylinders were fine, it was just the master cylinder that was bad on both...iirc. Definitely glad I got both but for less than $30 for both and the biggest pain being bleeding the system, it only makes sense to do both.

Moved onto bleeding the system which actually took more fluid than expected, probably about 6 ounces or more, and half way thru I notice that the inlet fitting was leaking so I snugged it up and that took care of that, thankfully.

Took Misfire out for a drive and all was good! Unfortunately I have concluded that the throw out bearing is going out as there is a slight "howling" that goes away once the clutch is depressed but comes back once the clutch is released.

Hopefully it will hold over till I have the money for a clutch(need to decide it I will go puck again or stick with a full face...it has to be able to handle at least 250ft/lbs for future power...probably a SuperMiata clutch either way) as I am not pulling the transmission just for that and not replacing the clutch at 121k miles, of course rear main seal and other transmission gaskets will get replaced too.
 

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Discussion Starter #232
12-14-19: Have a few projects that I have been meaning to get to and one of those is customizing the "chrome" fuel lid that I had gave a brushed finish to with these parts.


Picked up a sheet of 6mm thick carbon fiber(as seen above), M5x10mm titanium bolts in a "burnt" finish.....


...and a custom Revlimiter insert.


Disassembled the fuel lid and got to work.

Note there is a spring with a plastic cap that goes below the fuel lid hinge and while it was easy enough to remove the actual fuel lid that spring and plastic cap went flying....so watch that if you disassemble.

Thankfully I found the spring with in a few minutes of searching about 12 feet away on a shelf....how I found it I am not sure but thank goodness! Unfortunately I couldn't locate said plastic cap(which at the time I didn't know was a plastic cap). So I decide to make something to go between the spring and lid.

After seeing the size of the spring, hole, etc. I decided to use a bolt and simply cut most of the threads off and shave the head down. Well after almost of a hour of doing that and test fitting I figured out that it wasn't going to work.

I just happen to see a plastic cap/sleeve although the inside diameter was a little to small for the spring but it looked thick enough to drill out to the right size. So i did that and cut off most of the length and of course it fell as I cut it and it fell under Misfire.

I got down to pick up said cap and just happen to see a similar looking cap on the same shelf the spring was on and wouldn't you know it was the plastic cap that came off the spring! What are the chances!

After about 7 hours and plenty of issues I was pretty happy with the results.




I hadn't originally planned on the piece of aluminum trim on top but one of the issues was I cut the opening for the insert to big and I wasn't going to waste that piece of carbon fiber, so this was the solution. I also decided to use bolts and nuts to hold the pieces together just in case I needed to replace the insert or carbon fiber.

I'm still not totally sold on the "burnt" finish titanium bolts...kind of wish I had just got normal titanium bolts. I have some stainless steel bolts(like the ones holding the pieces together) that I can replace them with if the titanium ones don't grow on me.

Finally, here are a couple of before/after pics as well.






 

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Discussion Starter #233
12-21-19: While the weather in central Texas was a little chilly today, only mid 50's for the high, it was still nice enough to tackle another project I have been wanting to do...a rear bumper cut. It is "free", relatively easy to do and not very time consuming to do.

The hardest part is figuring out how aggressive you want it and how to taper it off at the ends. In the end I decided "more is more" and to take it as high as possible with out having to remove the rear "crash bar".

I just couldn't get the ends the way I wanted so for now I went with a rather "straight taper", plus I plan on doing a diffuser, possibly custom, and that may work best with it.

Not much to share here in terms of tips, etc. but there are LOTS of videos out there on doing bumper cuts on Miata's specifically. I used a smaller 3", iirc, angle grinder with a cut off wheel that worked really well in terms of cutting and leaving a nice edge. The key here is keeping it moving as it just starts to melt the plastic and throws melted plastic all over you to scar you for life.

On to the pictures! A few before and after pics first and then a few end result pics.









You might notice "a little person" reflection(in the before pic), yes Onyx, my 5yr old grand daughter, was there helping me once again but she gets scarce when using power tools as she doesn't like how loud they are so she would come and go thru out the process.








All said and done I am happy with the results. It is only the second time doing one and definitely seen plenty of others done better but again I think the taper will look/work better with a diffuser.
 

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Discussion Starter #234
12-22-19: Really want to start shooting more with the DSLR camera so I took Misfire for a last minute photo shoot just before sundown.














 

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Discussion Starter #235
02-02-20: Well after having my Project G vented windows since April of 2019, I finally got around to installing them along with the R Speed delrin window bushings I bought December of 2019.


They don't come like this as the acrylic is covered on both sides and the snap in vents(3.25") are separate. Installing the vents in the acrylic window can be intimidating the first time(my second time) but just take your time and after putting in the first corner simply start squeezing the other corner of the vent and finally push it in once you get it inside the window opening.

There are several write ups out there covering removing the door panel and triangle window so no step by step with pics(sorry started later than I wanted) but will give a quick run down of the process.(at least on NB2 but NA and NB are very similar short of the door panel)

1)Remove the three plastic push pins. One is on the upper right hand side of the door car and the other two are on the outer lower edge of the door card.

2)Remove the screws on the door handle(one on the top and one on bottom).

3)Now just start carefully pulling the door card from the bottom working your way up, popping the card off the plastic pins and the just lift it up off the top edge of the door. Be sure to disconnect the tweeter if it has one.

4)To remove the glass, pull back the moisture barrier and secure it with some tape so it is out of your way. Position the window so that you can get to the three bolts(10mm head) for the regulator and two stops(10mm), you should be able to do this in just two different window positions.

5)Now the window is free and carefully pull it out of the door. This is a good time to replace the window bushings because chances are the have disintegrated if they have never been replaced, if you haven't personally replaced them it is worth spending $20+ on a set of delrin window bushings. Also remove as much of the old grease out of the window tract and replace with some quality grease like Honda Shin Etsu.

This is how Misfire's window bushings looked upon removal....


...and replaced with the delrin window bushings from R Speed.


Both sides had completely fallen apart, I honestly cannot believe the windows were working "correctly", which they never acted weird beyond being a little on the slow side.

6)Now you need to remove a screw at the top upper most corner of the triangle window, it may be hard to see as there may be a bunch of dirt covering it.

7)Now remove the window seal starting at the bottom of the triangle window "b" pillar and take it off till you get just past the top upper most corner of the triangle window. This will expose a second screw, remove it.

8)Now remove the two 10mm bolts holding the triangle window "b" pillar, one is hiding behind the moisture barrier at the top and the other is exposed at the bottom. Just keep in mind when locating the bottom bolt that this piece angles down and doesn't go straight down.

9)Now you can remove the triangle window "b" pillar, notice the orientation and how the L portion that the bolts go thru goes UNDER the triangle window main frame.

10)Now pull the outer edge of the triangle window gasket and remove the triangle window. DO NOT completely remove the gasket as this will make reinstalling MUCH MORE difficult.

11)Install in reverse order. Just ensure the gasket is fully seated against the window frame and the triangle window.

For some reason the driver side was a pain and took almost 3hrs, while the passenger side took about a hour. If doing this for the first time figure a minimum of 3 hours total for both.

Here are some before and after pics:





Carbon Miata vent window


Project G vented window



OEM


Project G vented window
 

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Why did you remove the Carbon Miata vent window? The project G ones look cheaper and less functional? Please explain because the Carbon Miata ones have been a upgrade I've considered but haven't done since my car still has AC at the moment... (Seem like nice upgrade for race car with no ac.)
 

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Discussion Starter #237
Why did you remove the Carbon Miata vent window? The project G ones look cheaper and less functional? Please explain because the Carbon Miata ones have been a upgrade I've considered but haven't done since my car still has AC at the moment... (Seem like nice upgrade for race car with no ac.)
The biggest reason is the Carbon Miata vented window was very noisy when closed. The next reason was the CM version can't be opened in the rain which the Project G aviation style can be since the vent rotates 360 degrees and you can control where and how much air comes in...more so than the CM at least. Don't get me wrong the CM version moves ALOT of air.

You are more than welcome to the driver side CM vent window if you want to try it out(just cover shipping, PM me if so or better yet hit me up on Instagram if you have a account, same name), it is suppose to be a pre-production set(only have driver side as the pass. side was damaged in transit) according to Marc with Carbon Miata as they were a gift for helping him test fit a prototype vent window.
 

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Discussion Starter #238
02-12-20: I was made aware of DanDak LED lights, DanDak sequential , by another forum member and really liked his products and the one that I wanted to get sooner than later was the LED 3rd brake light which I got a custom version but more on that in another post.

Dan also offers a really nice interior light kit, MX-5 NB interior light kit ,which consist of a center LED light custom made by him with x9 LED's and side LED lights(with x6 LED's) that replace the sun visors.

I personally use my sun visors so the full kit wasn't for me but that center LED light was a welcome addition. I opted for the 5700K option(Dan offers 7 options, ranging from 2700K to 6500K) as it would be the whitest with a slight blue hue like daylight on a clear day.

I placed the order on Jan. 23, 2019 and Dan had it shipped out on the 27th and I received it Feb. 4th which was pretty awesome considering it was coming from Lithuania! Here it is:




As you can tell from the pics it is a well built and has connectors to plug in the two side lights so that is a plug and play affair. Here it is installed so you can get a idea of fitment which is snug but no issues:


I also decided to go ahead and order a clear dome lens which is a Mitsubishi OEM part(#MR951527) that fits the NA/NB dome light.


Mitsubishi clear lens vs OEM tinted lens


Here is the OEM tinted lens with a incandescent bulb(which are normally around 3k):


Now the clear lens with the same incandescent bulb:


Finally the clear lens with DanDak LED dome light(5700K):


As you can see it is a SUBSTANTIAL difference in terms of brightness and light color. For some direct comparison here is a picture with the DanDak LED light and foot well lights with incandescent bulbs(larger version than the dome light):


The DanDak LED dome light pretty much "drowns out" the foot well lights so I just disconnected them until I get some LED bulbs to replace them. I took a picture of the DanDak LED dome light with the OEM tinted lens but in the pic you couldn't actually tell a difference and in person it is slightly dimmer but mostly it changes the look of the light output.

I am really happy with the DanDak LED dome light as it puts out SO MUCH light and for about $16, I don't think you could do better in terms of light output and I always like supporting small businesses. Will have a few more updates in the next week or so!
 
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