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retardedly functional
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imo oem looks proportionate, the others look off.
 

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102 Posts
That's just the quarter window moving forward. I actually kind of like the second one, with the moderate chop.
 

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A Windows 7 tablet based custom dashboard.

It wouldn't be too hard to do, but i haven't found anybody doing it yet. My particular setup would involve a AEM 30-1710 ECU connected by serial to usb to an Acer W500 tablet running windows based AEMPro software. The realtime dashboard can be modified to suit taste and monitoring needs. This tablet would be too large to fit behind the steering wheel, so a custom dash mount to the right side would be necessary. In theory since the tablet is a touchscreen too, it could be possible to make changes to maps and tweak the tuning in real-time from the dash tablet.

default realtime dash:
 

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How about, a soft top that can be taken off and stored in the trunk. I do realize there is a factory one, but I'm talking about people who have it removed. It could have a folding frame that attaches to the hardtop points. It would be like a true vintage style one that you have to erect if it looks like rain, like on the old ferraris and cobras. It'd be a nice way to leave the hard top at home on longer outings for the hard top or no top guys.

 

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brontosaurus
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7,236 Posts
Beatrush has a quick disconnect rail for the soft top. Not sure about fitting in the trunk, but the top unclips easily.
 

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I want to design an adjustable top hat. One that can raise or lower the shock shaft. That way coilovers with only preload adjustment would be able to use the damper's travel more effectively.
 

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Beatrush has a quick disconnect rail for the soft top. Not sure about fitting in the trunk, but the top unclips easily.
I've seen this on Rev's, but not sure how it works, like I'm looking at it, but I think I'd need installed pics to understand how difficult it would be to put in and pull out vs a hard top style mounting system.
 

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I want to design an adjustable top hat. One that can raise or lower the shock shaft. That way coilovers with only preload adjustment would be able to use the damper's travel more effectively.
That is a great idea... and shouldn't be too hard to make.
 

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I love this one!!
any pics of the mounting to the shock tower?

Sorry guys, I forgot this thread.

Here is a pic when I was test fitting things :



Basically I had some super heavy duty seat belt brackets (for retrofitting early corvettes to have seatbelts.) You cannot tell in the pic, but the side mounted on the strut bar tower has two bolts holding the bracket on. After running it this way for quite some time I have yet to notice any ill effects with the configuration.

I just picked up a 93 Miata as well, and will be doing the same to it - however I am going to use a different bracket to mount the hydraulic shock.

As far as the intake goes, that was just a part from the stock intake tube I cut and used a bracket I had laying around to stabilize the filter.

Never EVER throw away brackets. I have thousands in organizers, and I use them for so many things.
 

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People! Post more great Ideas!


Here is another example of my hillbilly engineering.

Since my helper (wife) was asleep, and I wanted to flush/bleed my brakes on the 93 (with ABS) I had to come up with a solution.

After completely flushing the system with fresh fluid, I had to bleed them by myself. Since it was late, no autopart stores were open to get the one-person-bleeder-tools.

Small paint measure cups, barb fittings, and hoses. (x4)

Connect the hose to the bleeder, secure with zip tie.

Drill hole in plastic cup, make sure it is clean, and thread in barb fitting. If you have drilled the hole the right size, the barb fitting will be a tight fit to screw in. I had zero leaks amazingly.

Trim and attach other hose end to barb fitting, and use something (plastic channel in my case) to hold the cup above the bleeder valve. Make sure the hose is a downward trip to the bleeder (no part should be under the bleeder's height!)

Fill cups with enough fresh fluid to cover the barb fitting.

Losen the bleeder screws, pump a few times, and watch the air bubbles.

After about 30 mintues, no bubbles were coming up from the bleeders. I pumped a few more times, doubled checked no air bubbles, and tightened the bleeders.

And behold, I had nice, firm, great feeling brakes.


Untitled by PaulGT2164, on Flickr
 

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190 Posts
Well a while ago I designed (I mean blueprinted, engineered on autodesk, even sent to the patent board) an engine that utilized the heads from a Hayabusa to a v8 design just to learn that there was a company that already built this. So out of spite I have been (slowly) designing an engine that utilizes the heads from the new ZX-14.

First, I increased the v bank (not much mind you) to strengthen the block so I could twin turbo the setup. I wanted to utilize watercooled turbos, but instead of running a second pump, I decided to design the waterpump on the engine to also push water into the turbos. At first I was looking to use a VTECH style cam system, but then (after realizing I don't want to credit honda) I looked into fiat's old rally cars.

They have some very cool valve designs and that is where I hit a snag. There are so many to choose from, while engineering them is task within itself, they pose to much win to not try.

Lastly, the turbos. I started design with a set of normal turbos, but then as I thought about it I decided to go with mirror image turbos, both with anti-surge ports and external gates and bovs. I have contacted several companies about making these and only one said they would do it. Now they will either charge me a HEFTY fee for designing it, or I can figure it out myself. I am not sure yet as to which I will choose.

Then the fuel system comes in. I want to use individual throttle bodies with EFI and a staging system that could be electronically controlled (this will be explained next paragraph). I want to run this setup because not only is power instant, but it feels right.

Okay, so in a lot of cars nowadays, you can set the suspension to road, sport, or race. Well imagine if you could set your engine to that as well. Normally there is a system of springs that opens each throttle slower as to save mpg (which is how street would be) but then this system sets it up so in sport they pull quicker (as well as quicker and stronger cam response) and then in race, they would nearly activate all at the same time. In race it would feel like full throttle or no throttle.

What do you guys think?
 

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I think you're a lot smarter than me, lol.

But you're talking actual THROTTLE settings?
Thank you. Probably not though. Just took the right classes.

Yeah, that is another hard part to figure out. I am thinking about doing a 2 by 2 by 2 by 2 setup, so that each set can be progressively activated like a normal setup, but each grouping is electronically controlled so by the push of a button the speed changes.

This adjustable setup is strictly theoretical for now, and depending on if I can feasibly make it, it may stay theoretical.
 

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brontosaurus
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Wow swanky, that sounds like an awesome project. I wish I had the know how to pursue something like that. May I ask what the right classes were?

I wish someone would make a full CNC head for the 1.8s. Raise the ports higher, design the ports and chamber to flow better, and make room for higher lift cams. Could essentially try to replicate the flow path and design of a ported k20a head but within the dimensions of a useable head for a 1.8, just leave out the vtec. It would finally make creating big power in these engines a more worth while feat.
 

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Wow swanky, that sounds like an awesome project. I wish I had the know how to pursue something like that. May I ask what the right classes were?

I wish someone would make a full CNC head for the 1.8s. Raise the ports higher, design the ports and chamber to flow better, and make room for higher lift cams. Could essentially try to replicate the flow path and design of a ported k20a head but within the dimensions of a useable head for a 1.8, just leave out the vtec. It would finally make creating big power in these engines a more worth while feat.
2 Engineering classes in H.S. followed by private classes (me and a few of my classmates who he thought worked hard) from my teacher about design and advanced computer skills focusing on Autodesk.

Saving money before collage and I am going to make this engine while in college as part of my classes and then I want to patent it and sell it. Funny thing is, I don't want to go into Automotive engineering. I love it, but I don't want to ruin it. I want to go into energy engineering.

Also, the head wouldn't be too hard to source out, just find a company that will mock it up for you.
 

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Sorry guys, I forgot this thread.

Here is a pic when I was test fitting things :



Basically I had some super heavy duty seat belt brackets (for retrofitting early corvettes to have seatbelts.) You cannot tell in the pic, but the side mounted on the strut bar tower has two bolts holding the bracket on. After running it this way for quite some time I have yet to notice any ill effects with the configuration.

I just picked up a 93 Miata as well, and will be doing the same to it - however I am going to use a different bracket to mount the hydraulic shock.

As far as the intake goes, that was just a part from the stock intake tube I cut and used a bracket I had laying around to stabilize the filter.

Never EVER throw away brackets. I have thousands in organizers, and I use them for so many things.
wtf is that blue canister?
 
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