Probably isn't the best idea to run it with an upgraded rad and a 195* thermostat in 36 degree morning chill, but hey, I won't make a habit out of it. (Needle hovered slightly below the halfway point on the temp gauge.)
So yeah, here it is, in all its parked, unexciting, bird poop glory...
An overview of the motor after we got all the bugs fixed...it is very dirty still, but that'll get fixed soon I suppose...
Of course there's the Instagram edit...which always looks better on the small screen vs laptop...
So on to the details of things!
The biggest issue was, if you scroll back a few posts, the catch can plumbing went from valve cover > no PCV > catch can > intake manifold.
Well...upon first test run, about halfway down the road there were HUGE plumes of oil smoke. Like, blown piston rings type of smoke. Thick, noxious, terrible plumes. Turns out the catch can wasn't able to keep up with the vacuum pull and about half the oil got fed directly into the IM.
So we cut the return line going from the catch can to the intake manifold and capped each end. The capped IM line is still visible here, awaiting a cleaner solution.
So we let the car idle and blow out the rest of the smoke. All was well. But then we heard a hissing sound, and it turns out the oil was trying to escape through the dipstick. There was nowhere for the crank to vent pressure, so the only place it could escape was through the dipstick.
Off to the parts store and I picked up a universal breather filter. I also grabbed a PCV valve off of a random Saturn something something while I was there. I liked how it was A: cheap and B: had a 90* bend.
Some tinkering produced this temporary yet effective plumbing situation.
I don't like how the PCV sits against the spark plug boot but that's an easy fix. Now you can see how there is adequate ventilation and a working PCV unit too. No more blowing smoke, no more bubbling oil from the dip stick. Success!
There was also an issue of boiling coolant but a more robust cap fixed that problem. (Science time: boiling point depends not only on temperature but also pressure. Water can boil at a low temperature at high altitudes, for example. So the more robust your rad cap is, the more pressure there is in the system, and your coolant won't boil as easily.)
Finally, one last detail: here you can see the PCV 90* bend but also the stainless flexible clutch line. The OEM hardline was in the way of the coolant reroute, so this is able to get out of the way. I also tucked it in through the firewall and under the Garage Star windshield plate along with the brake vacuum line, so that's a plus.
I'm going to a car meet in about 15 days so maybe it'll be actually clean enough for some nice photos, eh?
I'm also running without the hood for a while so I can keep an eye on the motor and what it's doing. Annnnnnnd I might just like the way the motor looks. Hahaha.
Next step...I'm trying to find a good shop here in Georgia who will install the injectors, delete the AFM, install the GM IAT, and tune the Megasquirt all in one fell swoop. I'm sure I can learn how to tune, and I know I can install the mechanical bits, but I want to leave the computer stuff to the pros.
Also...just for fun...some more recent photos...it's sucking air at the injector seats so its idle is still wonky, but it'll get fixed soon enough.
Always wanted to get a good photo of the interior lights but never had a decent enough phone cam. I installed these suckers 7 years ago and they're still one of my favorite mods. Stealthily tucked under the seat and in the windshield trim so nobody can see the strips themselves.
At its new house! (Which...is a project in of itself...total reno...)