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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
I'm curious why you did this. Simplicity? My Sentra and before that my Civic had no IACV and it was just a constant battle to get it to idle happily.
It has stopped working a long time ago and it's been unplugged, so I just went to delete it. That and simplicity in the bay.
 

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I absolutely LOVE your engine bay! :smile9:

On the LRB Speed, loved it and will be buying another. Mine was the older design which on the miata had the slots for the center portion which could cause rattling and or resonance issues aka noise. I fixed it by using pieces of 1/8"(?) thick foam insulation with an adhesive back and put over the slits and cut a slit for the "L" parts of the center piece to go thru and that fixed my rattles/resonance issue. I did have 70d urethane motor mounts which I thought was the root cause but apparently others had the same issue and thus the design change. I highly recommend Landon (LRB Speed) as he makes great parts and exhibited excellent customer service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
^^ Thanks man, I appreciate that.

You ever get your shaved IM installed before you sold your car? I am having the WORST time getting the one nut off. It's the one on the bottom, closest to the firewall, above the starter. How did you manage to get that off? I started seriously considering taking an angle grinder to the IM and cutting the sucker off, so I figured it was time to call it a night.
 

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No sir. Still sitting in the garage. Figured I would 'finish it up' and sell it. Sorry, Todd, wish I could have been of some assistance. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Ah it's no biggie. That nut is a *****, lol. Lesson of the day: the starter lives under the IM. If your wrench hits it and you didn't disconnect the battery, you're in for a sparky surprise next to some open fuel lines!
 

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hi Todd. :fab:
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
Okay. I'm going to stop posting in incremental updates since this leg of the project is going to take a while anyways. But I did want to post this up as it has pertinent info for those who have swapped a 1.8 into a 1.6 chassis.

Real estate, even in a tucked bay, is a priority in the Miata bay. Since the 1.8 motor is longer than the 1.6, it takes up a few more inches in the front. Add that to the fact that you need a spacer on the throttle body to attach the 1.6 TB onto the 1.8 intake manifold, your crossover pipe will be fighting with your radiator hose as they share the same location. This is my solution (which will be coupled with the coolant reroute, but this should suffice for those without the reroute too). Be forewarned, it takes some fab work.

Step 1: Your throttle body can probably stand to lose these parts: IACV & shock absorber. This is optional, but it's what I did.



Step 2: Modify your intake manifold. Look at what was done here: Fill in the bottom two holes with JB Weld. Also fill in the area off to the right with JB Weld. You'll then drill a new hole on the bottom right and use it to pass a new bolt through. I decided to skip using a bolt on the bottom left because you'll have to drill and tap as opposed to just using a new bolt.

Pictures explain best:



Angle 2: You'll notice a piece has been cut out as well, which comes into play later.



....aaaand this is why you cut that chunk out. It is to make clearance for your TPS. There is also a little triangle shaped piece on the throttle body that you want to cut off.



Flip over to the other side of your manifold. You need to cut a similar chunk out to make room for your throttle wheel.



And done! Your 1.6 throttle body now fits onto the 1.8 intake manifold without the FM part. I opted to use red RTV silicone as opposed to the metal gasket because I know for sure there won't be any vacuum leaks.



Yes, the spacer is the easy route. But IMO, this is more worth it, because it allows you 1.5" of clearance between your crossover pipe and radiator hose - not to mention it's a cleaner route.

That being said, any takers for a used FM spacer? $30 shipped, lol.

And this is a potato quality shot of how the motor should look once all put back together.

 

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Discussion Starter · #171 ·
You sure that RTF is a good idea?
Probably. Truth be told I'll probably use a higher temp stuff. (When I originally applied it, I then realized the throttle wheel contacted the IM so I had to remove it anyways and it'll need to be scraped off.)

That being said, the original gasket will no longer work due to the mods I had to make to the opening of the IM.

What about the RTV is concerning to you? I ask because I haven't thought about it since it has since then moved down to near the bottom of the to-do list.
 

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What about the RTV is concerning to you? I ask because I haven't thought about it since it has since then moved down to near the bottom of the to-do list.
I don't know of anyone doing it before is the main concern. You're talking about the area where stuff gets sucked in to the engine, so ingestion is always going to be a concern to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
I don't know of anyone doing it before is the main concern. You're talking about the area where stuff gets sucked in to the engine, so ingestion is always going to be a concern to me.
Absolutely. I share that worry too. IF I go with the RTV, I'll obviously pull back the butterfly valve and trim anything overhanging. Again, the only reason why is because the OEM gasket won't fit anymore. I'm sure there's a cut to fit type of gasket material one could buy online though.

Or I could even make one myself. I have some polymetal laying around. Two layers of thin aluminum with plastic in between. Should be deformable enough to squish and seal. I'm thinking out loud here though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
My only concern is that only using two studs that aren't on opposing sides of the throttle body will create a higher risk of the bottom seal splitting and letting air bypass. You might want to consider using that third stud. Triangles are always best
I guess I mistyped, but yeah it'll be a triangle setup: two studs up top and a bolt passed through on the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
So I'm trying to stay out of bumping this thread every time a new part rolls in, but I was looking for some advice on how to plumb this Protege VC that just came in yesterday.



Does anyone have any underside shots of their piece?
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
Thanks man, I have found that most of the pics in those threads are indeed dead. I think I found my plumbing solution though. I just need to figure out how I'm going to be blocking off a 3/4" hole on the driver's side...sigh...

but some of my favorite posts are new parts...
Mine too lol! I feel like I spam the front page though. FWIW I also have a Yonaka aluminum rad and fan/shroud I've yet to install. That means the only part missing out of the coolant system is the heater barb for the spacer on the back of the head. Looking forward to knocking that system off the checklist.
 
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