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The Reemergence: Miatapasta's new beginnings

32117 Views 205 Replies 39 Participants Last post by  miatapasta
11
Parts list: Current as of 5/31/17 for those of you who are curious. The car's story is below the parts list.


Exterior
-Kirker single stage white paint (link)
-House of Grafx stripes & meatballs (custom dimensions) (link)
-Chaparral 15x7 +38 wheels (with 20mm H&R Trak+ spacers)
-OEM hardtop
-DIY fender winkers made from spare parts (link)
-Universal bullet mirrors on the fenders w/ convex lenses (link)
-Genuine Garage Vary panel w/ reverse light deleted (link)
-Corvette C3 lenses w/ JDM ASTAR brand LED bulbs retrofitted (link)
-S2 Racing front bumper (link)
-Rear bumper cutout
-Front & rear red tow hooks
-Complete LED conversion w/ modified OEM flasher (prevents hyperblink)
-Amber underglow wired to blinker circuit (total ricer move, don't care lol) (link)
-Center exit dual tip exhaust
-Antique Vehicle Ga. license plate (vehicles >25 years qualify)
-Dodge Challenger fuel cap (link)

Interior
-Custom upholstered tombstone, center console, & crash pads/upper door pads (link)
-Diamond stitched door panels
-Discontinued (?) Moss Motors teardrop speaker panels
-Pioneer Bluetooth head unit
-Kicker 6.5" door speakers
-DIY switch plate below radio (link)
-Customized IL Motorsports center console (link)
-Completely DIY gauges & cluster (link)
-Eclipse vents with retrofitted bezel chrome trim rings
-04 MSM seats (link)
-OEM EUNOS (JDM?) steering wheel
-Bandana used as shift boot
-Miata stitched floor mats

Motor/trans/cooling (including non performance parts)
-1995 OEM rebuilt 1.8 swap on 1990 1.6 chassis/wiring
-1990 1.6 5 speed OEM trans
-Race clutch (good up to 250 HP)
-Open diff (until it blows)
-1990 1.6 OEM ECU
-Minor shaved/tucked bay (link)
-LRB Speed upper radiator cooling panel
-Yonaka radiator & fan shroud combo (link)
-LRB Speed lower radiator cooling panel (link)
-DIY spark plug cover (link)
-Protege valve cover, powder coated wrinkle red/prismatic gold (link)
-Shaved intake manifold, powdercoated prismatic gold (not installed yet) (link)
-OBX header, new catalytic converter, Racing Beat muffler, center exit dual tip exhaust (link)
-Garage star windshield cowl cover, tucked/hidden clutch & brake booster lines (link)

Parts deleted / nominal weight savings
-AC system & belts
-Cruise control
-Spare tire
-Power steering (FM depowered rack)
-Windshield wipers/motor

Suspension & wheels
-Dunlop Direzza 205/50/15 tires
-Silver Chaparral wheels, 15x7 +38
-H&R 20mm spacers (effective wheel offset 18mm)
-Tien Basis coilovers
-Autocross alignment
-Poly bushings w/ zerk fittings
-OEM swaybars

And the "soon to come"...
-Coolant reroute (being installed currently)
-Flow Force 660 CC injectors (purchased, not installed)
-NB throttle body w/ TPS (soon to come)
-DIY PNP Megasquirt (purchased, not installed)
-BRP MP62 supercharger kit (purchased, not installed)
-DIY front splitter for S2 bumper, plus DIY side splitters & rear diffuser (have materials, need to make)
-Shaved intake manifold (being installed currently)


Prologue

A long time ago, there was a guy, fresh out of high school, working at a fast food joint, and driving a sweet 4.6l V6 powered Ford Aerostar in the classic 90’s faded red color which he hauled all his skateboard buddies around town in. He loved that van.



But bad times hit, the old horse had to go, and his folks handed him down the epitome of all soccer mom vans – their ‘97 Ford Windstar. Something like this, but imagine in baby blue.



Don’t get him wrong, he was thankful for the car. Never put down a gift horse, as his dad taught him. But he was getting older and it was getting to the point where he needed something of his own. He really wanted an older VW Bug, but all of the ones he found in his price range were either old rust buckets or half running paperweights. So the plans of a chopped-top, flat black, pinstriped and smoothie-wheeled Beetle went to the wayside as he kept working marginal hours at his fast food job to afford a car in the $3,000 range while still going to college. Two years of hard work and saving up brought him to “that day.”

“That day” was a normal day, browsing Craigslist, sadly contemplating the boring sedan on his screen. He remembered sitting in his dad’s old Triumph TR250, watching the road go by through the rust holes in the floor pans as an eight year old little kid.

This is him as a kid in the driver’s seat, with his little brother standing next to it.



Maybe it was nostalgia, as the car had been sold long ago, or maybe it was just how cool he thought that car was. Regardless, a switch flipped and he typed in ‘Miata’ into the search bar. The first result was a bunch of grainy pictures of a stock, two-owner, 1990 white model with 78,000 miles. He met up with the guy in the next town over and bought it the next day, not knowing a thing about Miatas…or stick shifts...or cars at all, for that matter.

That was five years ago, and that guy was me. Since then, it has gone a long way from the peeling 90’s paint and trashed soft top. Of course, since I bought it when I was young (19), it went through a bit of an immature stage…the remnants of which still reverberated for much, much longer than I’d like.



It seemed like for each ‘stage,’ I got it almost right and then went something went wrong. You know, it’s interesting, really – I’ve been influenced by old, old vehicles my entire life. Of course, there was the TR 250. My neighbor has a really nice older Charger and the roar of a V8 has always been a part of my childhood. My dad and I also worked on replica Whizzer motorbikes when I was younger, running them until the cheap motors popped and a new one came in the mail. Then he got into motorcycles, and eventually got a genuine 1947 Whizzer his friend sold to him as a rust bucket with a seized engine, so my dad did a complete nut and bolt restoration on it.



I’ll try to get more pics of the thing, it’s actually really neat.

So because of my background of older things, I had always pined to draw from their influences. I couldn’t let go of the founding fathers of automobiles; yet here I was, driving a Japanese import, the likes of which I swore to never drive when I was younger. I tried to mix new and old. I really did. Yet I was still young back then, and always managed to mash up new and old in some sort of terrible way - hence me almost getting it right, and then a few bad decisions would throw the whole thing off. Case in point…



I realized not too long ago that I just needed a blank canvas again. To start fresh. Although throughout the years I had always been thoroughly enjoying the car as it was meant to be...











It just wasn’t sitting well with me, knowing that it could be living out its true potential.
On a whim last year, I tore the whole car down to bare metal, stripping off ye olde paint and giving myself the blank canvas I’ve needed for so long. I thought it would be a weekend project – prep Friday, prime Saturday, paint Sunday…but what resulted was a nearly yearlong learning process in the world of rolling restorations.

Chapter 1 – a reboot

I wasn’t happy with the way the car had turned out before I started taking the paint off, nor was I happy with myself. Let me clarify. I was completely happy with how I was coming along as an emerging adult: 24 years old, starting my student teaching, finishing college, graduating in May 2015 with a degree in secondary English education (which means I’ll be teaching high school literature), a successful two-and-a-half-year long relationship with a wonderful woman (which is still going strong – she’s ahead of me and teaching middle school now), a strong interest in science and astronomy, and a steady job suitable for a college schedule (the job, mind you, is not the same fast food gig). I have two best friends, and of course, a car which I bought under my own financial power. I have a strong dislike for the typical younger attitude of today and much prefer quiet nights with my girlfriend and our cat, or hanging out with my two best friends and talking smack about each other while playing Tekken 3 on the arcade machine.

It was my online persona that was lacking, really. I know it sounds silly, but in today’s digital world, your online presence holds almost as much weight as your physical presence. As I said, I was young when I bought the car, and young when I joined CR. I was trolled left and right because let’s face it, I was kind of dumb. As I matured in reality, I still had ripples from the younger frame of mind from “those days” of sitting on hoods and it showed just a tad too much for my liking. I asked the mods to change my username and shed the tired old screen name that I’d used out of force of habit since 6th grade (I know right!).

I also took a bit of a break from forum posting as I worked on restoring the Miata. With that aside, I’d like to present the fruits of my labor. This experience has been one of the most fulfilling experiences outside of school that I’ve ever had – from trying my patience in the garage to looking back at the car every time I park it, I am glad I put myself through this.
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I deleted the IACV
I'm curious why you did this. Simplicity? My Sentra and before that my Civic had no IACV and it was just a constant battle to get it to idle happily.
I'm curious why you did this. Simplicity? My Sentra and before that my Civic had no IACV and it was just a constant battle to get it to idle happily.
It has stopped working a long time ago and it's been unplugged, so I just went to delete it. That and simplicity in the bay.
I absolutely LOVE your engine bay! :smile9:

On the LRB Speed, loved it and will be buying another. Mine was the older design which on the miata had the slots for the center portion which could cause rattling and or resonance issues aka noise. I fixed it by using pieces of 1/8"(?) thick foam insulation with an adhesive back and put over the slits and cut a slit for the "L" parts of the center piece to go thru and that fixed my rattles/resonance issue. I did have 70d urethane motor mounts which I thought was the root cause but apparently others had the same issue and thus the design change. I highly recommend Landon (LRB Speed) as he makes great parts and exhibited excellent customer service.
^^ Thanks man, I appreciate that.

You ever get your shaved IM installed before you sold your car? I am having the WORST time getting the one nut off. It's the one on the bottom, closest to the firewall, above the starter. How did you manage to get that off? I started seriously considering taking an angle grinder to the IM and cutting the sucker off, so I figured it was time to call it a night.
No sir. Still sitting in the garage. Figured I would 'finish it up' and sell it. Sorry, Todd, wish I could have been of some assistance. :(
Ah it's no biggie. That nut is a *****, lol. Lesson of the day: the starter lives under the IM. If your wrench hits it and you didn't disconnect the battery, you're in for a sparky surprise next to some open fuel lines!
hi Todd. :fab:
7
Okay. I'm going to stop posting in incremental updates since this leg of the project is going to take a while anyways. But I did want to post this up as it has pertinent info for those who have swapped a 1.8 into a 1.6 chassis.

Real estate, even in a tucked bay, is a priority in the Miata bay. Since the 1.8 motor is longer than the 1.6, it takes up a few more inches in the front. Add that to the fact that you need a spacer on the throttle body to attach the 1.6 TB onto the 1.8 intake manifold, your crossover pipe will be fighting with your radiator hose as they share the same location. This is my solution (which will be coupled with the coolant reroute, but this should suffice for those without the reroute too). Be forewarned, it takes some fab work.

Step 1: Your throttle body can probably stand to lose these parts: IACV & shock absorber. This is optional, but it's what I did.



Step 2: Modify your intake manifold. Look at what was done here: Fill in the bottom two holes with JB Weld. Also fill in the area off to the right with JB Weld. You'll then drill a new hole on the bottom right and use it to pass a new bolt through. I decided to skip using a bolt on the bottom left because you'll have to drill and tap as opposed to just using a new bolt.

Pictures explain best:



Angle 2: You'll notice a piece has been cut out as well, which comes into play later.



....aaaand this is why you cut that chunk out. It is to make clearance for your TPS. There is also a little triangle shaped piece on the throttle body that you want to cut off.



Flip over to the other side of your manifold. You need to cut a similar chunk out to make room for your throttle wheel.



And done! Your 1.6 throttle body now fits onto the 1.8 intake manifold without the FM part. I opted to use red RTV silicone as opposed to the metal gasket because I know for sure there won't be any vacuum leaks.



Yes, the spacer is the easy route. But IMO, this is more worth it, because it allows you 1.5" of clearance between your crossover pipe and radiator hose - not to mention it's a cleaner route.

That being said, any takers for a used FM spacer? $30 shipped, lol.

And this is a potato quality shot of how the motor should look once all put back together.

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You sure that RTF is a good idea?
You sure that RTF is a good idea?
Probably. Truth be told I'll probably use a higher temp stuff. (When I originally applied it, I then realized the throttle wheel contacted the IM so I had to remove it anyways and it'll need to be scraped off.)

That being said, the original gasket will no longer work due to the mods I had to make to the opening of the IM.

What about the RTV is concerning to you? I ask because I haven't thought about it since it has since then moved down to near the bottom of the to-do list.
What about the RTV is concerning to you? I ask because I haven't thought about it since it has since then moved down to near the bottom of the to-do list.
I don't know of anyone doing it before is the main concern. You're talking about the area where stuff gets sucked in to the engine, so ingestion is always going to be a concern to me.
I don't know of anyone doing it before is the main concern. You're talking about the area where stuff gets sucked in to the engine, so ingestion is always going to be a concern to me.
Absolutely. I share that worry too. IF I go with the RTV, I'll obviously pull back the butterfly valve and trim anything overhanging. Again, the only reason why is because the OEM gasket won't fit anymore. I'm sure there's a cut to fit type of gasket material one could buy online though.

Or I could even make one myself. I have some polymetal laying around. Two layers of thin aluminum with plastic in between. Should be deformable enough to squish and seal. I'm thinking out loud here though...
My only concern is that only using two studs that aren't on opposing sides of the throttle body will create a higher risk of the bottom seal splitting and letting air bypass. You might want to consider using that third stud. Triangles are always best
My only concern is that only using two studs that aren't on opposing sides of the throttle body will create a higher risk of the bottom seal splitting and letting air bypass. You might want to consider using that third stud. Triangles are always best
I guess I mistyped, but yeah it'll be a triangle setup: two studs up top and a bolt passed through on the bottom.
So I'm trying to stay out of bumping this thread every time a new part rolls in, but I was looking for some advice on how to plumb this Protege VC that just came in yesterday.



Does anyone have any underside shots of their piece?
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Thanks man, I have found that most of the pics in those threads are indeed dead. I think I found my plumbing solution though. I just need to figure out how I'm going to be blocking off a 3/4" hole on the driver's side...sigh...

but some of my favorite posts are new parts...
Mine too lol! I feel like I spam the front page though. FWIW I also have a Yonaka aluminum rad and fan/shroud I've yet to install. That means the only part missing out of the coolant system is the heater barb for the spacer on the back of the head. Looking forward to knocking that system off the checklist.
I just need to figure out how I'm going to be blocking off a 3/4" hole on the driver's side...sigh...
You did catch the part about threading a bolt in, right? ;)
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