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Mufasa in Training
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32,094 Posts
Discussion Starter #801
Re: The Tick aka OEM Plus™

It's an adhesive mat. Where it doesn't fit, cut it. :lol:
I was more presuming the carpet would have trouble fitting over it (ie thickness being more of an issue than length or width).
 

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Administrator
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15,321 Posts
Remove the mouse fur crap loosely attached to bottom of molded carpet. Profit.


(It's also not that thiccc. 1/2" at most.)
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,094 Posts
Discussion Starter #803
In the never-ending quest to figure out that stupid front-end clunk, my next two likely points of attack are the upper ball joint (lower was changed to new OEM, so unless it's mysteriously decided to back itself out...on both sides...) and the inner tie rods.

Here's the conundrum on the UBJ: I'm planning to just buy a whole arm with UBJ already installed because I'm not equipped to pop and weld in another one. If I got a good/great condition arm from Partsgroup, it'd run me about $45 and be OEM, but used. If I bought a Mevotech from RockAuto, it'd run me about $7 more, but would be new (though finding reviews on those things seems to be notoriously difficult...).

Thoughts?
 

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Registered
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730 Posts
I wouldn't bother buying used. The rubber ages and the ball joint can be damaged before you are able to feel it by hand. Get a new good quality part to save you the possibility of installing a damaged used one.

Can you make the noise by wiggling or shaking the car?
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,094 Posts
Discussion Starter #805
Re: The Tick aka OEM Plus™

I wouldn't bother buying used. The rubber ages and the ball joint can be damaged before you are able to feel it by hand. Get a new good quality part to save you the possibility of installing a damaged used one.
I guess the bigger question was: is OEM the only way to go here, or would a 3rd party new one (Mevotech, AC Delco, etc) be sufficient? We're talking 3x as much $$$ to buy new OEM.
Can you make the noise by wiggling or shaking the car?
Nope, I never have been, but then again, maybe I'm not shaking hard enough.
 

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First Things First I'm The Realist
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8,407 Posts
For what it’s worth... I replaced my own UBJ. Went pretty smooth on my buddy’s press. I haven’t tack welded them but might at some point. I’m not living in fear... but also don’t have a mobile car right now.

I say literally anything you do is a crap shoot but new OEM has the best odds.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,094 Posts
Discussion Starter #807
Re: The Tick aka OEM Plus™

For what it’s worth... I replaced my own UBJ. Went pretty smooth on my buddy’s press. I haven’t tack welded them but might at some point. I’m not living in fear... but also don’t have a mobile car right now.

I say literally anything you do is a crap shoot but new OEM has the best odds.
If I had access to a press, I might consider it. Putting in a new arm also gets me much newer bushings, which I would prefer.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,094 Posts
Discussion Starter #809
Re: The Tick aka OEM Plus™

The actual pressing part is something most shops can handle for you on the cheap.
That is very true, but for the time I'd spend finding a shop I trust, finding time in their schedule, taking time off work to go deal with them, plus still needing to replace bushings in the UCA, it's just not worth my time to replace part of it. I'd rather just start from scratch (I mean seriously...I'm not even convinced I'll actually take the time to uninstall/reinstall instead of paying someone to do it--I'm that strapped for time mostly and expertise secondly).
 

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If youre not tracking the car, which you arent, the after market arms are fine. I've installed plenty. I don't expect them to outlast OEM arms in the bushing or ball joint perspective, but i've also never gotten a used front upper that I was happy with. I'll pay seven dollars for a warranty.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,094 Posts
Discussion Starter #811
Re: The Tick aka OEM Plus™

If youre not tracking the car, which you arent, the after market arms are fine. I've installed plenty. I don't expect them to outlast OEM arms in the bushing or ball joint perspective, but i've also never gotten a used front upper that I was happy with. I'll pay seven dollars for a warranty.
That's what I've wondered. I put aftermarket lower arms on (though I did pay up for OEM lower ball joints). Did it mostly because I needed new bushings (I had already bought the LBJ's).
 

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Murse Magnet
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7,314 Posts
New driveline noise this morning. Never noticed it before.

Crap.

Anyone want this stupid car?
Maybe rubber motor mounts would help?
 

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Murse Magnet
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7,314 Posts
99% sure it's a bearing (TO or Pilot). Either that or my engine itself is dying.
How old is the clutch / flywheel?
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,094 Posts
Discussion Starter #817
How old is the clutch / flywheel?
About 6 years old. I don't think I had OEM bearings put in when I had the clutch changed. Flywheel is a resurfaced OEM.

Now that I walk back out to the car, noticing noise that stops when car is put into neutral. When clutch pedal is pressed down and car is put into gear (but pedal is still down), noise comes back.
 

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First Things First I'm The Realist
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8,407 Posts
Well... there ya have it. Dead hydraulics or dead TOB. Go squeeze the slave boot and see if you get a nice squirt of brake fluid all over... everything.

Or is the noise more serious other times and/or at speed? Didn’t give us much...
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,094 Posts
Discussion Starter #819
Today's the first time I noticed it. In retrospect, I heard something odd as I was pulling out of my neighborhood. By the time I got to work, I couldn't mistake that it was some noise elsewhere (I was top down with the heater running full blast). I could hear something while the car was moving, but I reminded myself that it's far more likely something other than the car. Wasn't until I was parking the car that it really piped up. Walked back out to the car later wherein I made the observation from last post.

I do have a clutch slave ready to install sitting on the bench in my garage (I think...couldn't remember if it was clutch master and slave or brake and clutch master). Can't remember if/when I rebuilt/replaced the slave last.

Pedal does feel kind of weird. I think the hydraulics are OK, but when it engages or disengages, something doesn't feel right.
 

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Murse Magnet
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7,314 Posts
Sounds like tob to me. I went through a few myself. I think I ended up paying more money for an oem Mazda one of the upgraded flying Miata tob but whatever I put most recently in my Miata has been fine.

But I’ve battled tob noises for many years.
 
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