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Murse Magnet
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7,627 Posts
I'm just going to go with OEM. I need to get an OEM ToB and Pilot Bearing, along with the Rear Main and Tranny seals anyway. IMHO, seals should ALWAYS be OEM.

Next decision is what clutch to buy. I was going to buy a 1.8 ACT Prolite, but the sale (temporarily, at least) fell through. I was really wanting to go 1.6L, but the deal on the ACT was hard to pass up. Now that I haven't heard from the guy in a week, I'm not sure what to do. I really need to get going on this because I'm nervous to drive the car with all the racket that stupid bearing is making.
Keep driving the car. No biggie.
Buy this flywheel. This is what is presently in Julie's car and driving fine.

Buy an oem stock replacement clutch kit while you are at it for an oem like pedal feel. I think an OEM clutch kit comes with the oem Pilot bearing and TOB already.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #862
Keep driving the car. No biggie.
I did take it out and about. Might drive it to my hockey game tonight. Just don't want to get stranded.

Buy this flywheel. This is what is presently in Julie's car and driving fine.
I had a deal to buy the Prolite from someone here in Ohio who was going to even deliver it here, but he ended up not coming to town, and I haven't heard from him since. Don't want to flake on him, but I'd like to actually buy something so I can get started on putting the car together.

Buy an oem stock replacement clutch kit while you are at it for an oem like pedal feel. I think an OEM clutch kit comes with the oem Pilot bearing and TOB already.
Probably what I'll end up doing either way. I don't really know where you can get the OEM kit, though...the Value kit is basically an Exedy setup (with Exedy bearings). I already have an OEM ToB new in box.

I want to get a 1.6L setup, but that's going to require me to make a decision on the flywheel. I LOVED the Spec Stage II/Fidanza (1.6) setup on my old 97. It was one of my favorite features of the car.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #863
Today's purchases:

1 x KMZ03 Exedy OEM 1.8L Clutch Kit
1 x ACT Prolite Flywheel (the guy did get back to me and agreed to ship it for only $15 more than he was going to charge to deliver it!)
1 x OEM Pilot Bearing (already have a NiB OEM TOB)
2 x Inner Tie Rods and Lock Washers
4 x Cotter Pins for UBJ/LBJ
Engine RMS, Tranny Input and Output Seals and Gasket

Now to just schedule someone to put all this crap in/on the car :ROFLMAO:
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #864
Long overdue update:

When I bought the bumper with its MSM lip installed, I was pumped because I'd always kind of wanted it. I figured if nothing else, I could sell the lip if I didn't like it.

Two years later, I wasn't really in love with it. I LOVE the naked NB2 lines, and this thing was always messing it up--even though it is factory and is pretty cool. Additionally, one of the other Laser Blues in Ohio (yeah, there's TWO of us!) has the MSM lip and, while it looks good, it's just not the look I want to go for. Add in someone on Facebook putting out a "hey, I need a lip--got cash in hand" post, and opportunity is clearly knocking.

The MSM is held on by four fasteners on the bottom, one each on the inside of the fender, and, if you got it from the factory, the lip is bolted to the bumper through the uprights on either side of the radiator opening:

20200712_210333 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

The fastener receptacle on the upright section is attached to every lip. However, the rest of the hardware kit is, as far as I know, no longer available. Thankfully, the other 10 fasteners do the job of holding the lip on just fine.

20200712_211130 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

I've always had a running gag that Classic Red is really "Mazda Primer". Look really close and...well, it's closer to the truth than I'd have guessed


20200712_211146 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

And well...here we are, lol

20200712_210252 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

I'll be selling the lip for more than the bumper plus lip cost me in the first place!
 

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I have all the correct opinions.
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9,813 Posts
Reading back through this thread (looking for pictures of the lip installed), I’m surprised that my posts have been moderately helpful / informative as recently as last year. It feels like i’ve been **** posting exclusively for much longer than that. Huh.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #866
Reading back through this thread (looking for pictures of the lip installed), I’m surprised that my posts have been moderately helpful / informative as recently as last year. It feels like i’ve been **** posting exclusively for much longer than that. Huh.
How so?

Car's at the shop now, where it's been since last Friday. They've been thorough, which I appreciate.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #867
Car's finally home. Have to say: it feels like a new car!

The car could be lower if I were willing to change things more, but this is actually better than it looked in the photo the shop sent me.

20200806_105611 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
20200806_105603 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
20200806_105552 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
20200806_105537 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

Love the new bushings. The ride is a lot tighter now. Steering feels much improved, and thanks to the several exhaust gaskets they replaced along with retrofitting the motor mounts (back to stock), the car is MUCH quieter than I ever remember it being.

I have, however, two complaints (besides the fact that the shop honestly was pretty terrible at communicating):

1.) Clutch grabs pretty high off the floor. Going to have to fix that.
2.) Thanks, I'm assuming, to my door bushings requiring the door to be practically slammed shut at all times, the battery was darn near flat. In fact, I had to get a jump start to get it home. It's on the charger now:

20200806_124241 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #869
Gimme the deets on the motor mounts.
They are sitting in a box ready to ship. I'll even include one of the two improved lower clevis parts that I got after I snapped the stud on one of them. I installed one but not the other.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #870
@Andy - PM me your address, bby

Going to need to adjust the clutch pedal today.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #871
Only adjusted pedal height (the one attached to the clutch switch. Car intermittently had trouble going into gear and also was greeted with an annoying gear-like rattle at idle which got worse with AC on. Wonder if it's not because the slave is making full contact with the clutch fork.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #872
Almost got stuck in Indiana when the car decided it didn't want to go into gear for a minute or two. Once it was moving, all was well, but that first stoplight was kind of scary.




I've got a clutch slave and master I bought about two years ago but never installed. Probably should throw them in along with the stainless clutch line I just ordered.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #874
Gotta replace all three parts of the clutch hydraulics.

In other news...oh, DAMNIT.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #876
Didn't know about the 57V. Either way, the Countergrams certainly look nice.
 

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I have all the correct opinions.
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9,813 Posts
Konig might be a “knock-off” but not in the sense that they’ve skimped on quality... Id have zero reservations about putting Konigs on my vehicles.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #878
Update Time...

So when we last left off, the car had nearly stranded me twice by refusing to go into gear once parked at my destination. Not knowing the condition of the Master and Slave cylinders, I decided that I would got ahead and replace them with the pair I'd bought on a whim two years ago.

Imagine my surprise when I opened the master to suck some of the fluid out and this is what I saw...

NO WONDER. by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

Now, I hadn't noticed any leaks at the Master, Slave, or the clutch line, so I have zero idea how this thing had mysteriously drained itself. I suspect someone at the shop forgot to check fluid levels and/or removed the Slave when they pulled the transmission. Since I was already decided to replace the pair, I took note and moved on.

I did notice, though, that the master itself had surface rust on it, but the paint under the master seemed pristine (brake fluid will take off paint, as I found out later on the subframe...):

Old Clutch Master Cylinder by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

Here are the three pieces of the puzzle: a 5XRacing Extended Stainless Clutch Line (which replaces both the rubber hose and the lower pigtail), along with the afforementioned Master/Slave combo from Exedy/Equal:

Parts Going In by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

You can start by taking the Master off first, I guess, but I decided to start from the bottom and work my way up.

Here are the bolts...

Slave Cylinder Bleed Screw by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
Slave Upper Mounting Bolt by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
Slave Lower Mounting Bolt by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
Lower Pigtail Retaining Bolt by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
Lower Pigtail Fitting by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

Let's go!

First, drain the master cylinder. I'd suggest using a baster or something to suck it out from the master, then put a line over the bleeder and open it up to hopefully get anything remaining out (there will still be some in the slave itself).

Next, undo the fitting at the slave clyinder with a 10mm flare wrench and pull it aside a little while you undo the two bolts holding the slave in place. The upper can be reached with a 12mm socket and extension. The lower will require you to reach up under the subframe to put a wrench on it from the bottom. I was able to get my ratcheting wrench on it, so once it broke lose, getting it off is pretty easy.

Now, what I did next was to undo the 10mm bolt holding the lower pigtail in place. In retrospect, I should have separated the rubber line and pigtail first, because when I undid the retaining bolt, I heard the telltale CLINK of the lower junction retaining clip hitting the floor (thankfully, instead of burying itself between the motor and subframe).

Here is the upper junction:

Upper Junction (Master Cylinder Hard Line to Rubber Clutch Line) by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

And lower junction (with retaining clip in place):

Junction for the Rubber Clutch Line and Lower Pigtail by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

Since it popped loose (and would not go back in) on my car, I had to figure out how to hold the rubber line in place while I undid the pigtail: a 17mm open fits over the rubber line, while the 10mm flare fits over the fitting for the pigtail.

Separating the Rubber Clutch Line from Lower Pigtail by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

They're out!

The OEM Rubber Clutch Hose and Lower Pigtail by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

The slave cylinder looked pretty normal. Not much brake fluid on the boot or the piston:

Slave Cylinder Boot by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
Slave Cylinder Piston and Bore by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

If you look closely at the pic of the wrenches, you'll notice that big wiring harness going next to the head is not completely attached. Not sure why, but it appears the shop did not fully bolt it back in, leaving it to rub against the lower hose junction. Ugh.

Wiring Harness by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

Getting the Master Cylinder's hard line threaded back in was probably the biggest pain in the whole job, as it took several times of trying to put the MC on its mounting studs and failing at threading the hard line before I realized I had to unclip the hard line from the firewall, then finger tighten the hard line in, and only then could I put it on the mounting studs and tighten them!

Reattaching the Hard Line to the Clutch Master by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

The only other curiosity was the RTV that had been put around the base of the MC. I didn't notice any leaking near the MC, so I don't really know why this was done:

Curious RTV on Master Cylinder Base by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,680 Posts
Discussion Starter #879
Today, I got pedal help for bleeding the clutch from my favorite little hockey player :)

One thing that never sinks in is just how long it takes before you see ANY fluid coming through the bleeder hose. Even worse, how many pump/down/open bleeder/close/repeat you have to see before the slave cylinder pushrod even moves! We kept at it, though, and soon there was a solid stream of fluid from the slave.

After two test drives today, it hasn't left me stranded once. Some driveline noises I'm still waiting to adjust to, but things seem to be back to where I expected them to be.
 
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