ClubRoadster.net banner

901 - 920 of 964 Posts

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #901 ·
Figured it out...SOMEONE (no idea who) squeezed the throttle linkage with pliers or something, squeezing the two sides of the cable guide together I can only assume in an effort to capture the throttle cable. Problem is, if you press the throttle far enough, the cable pops out of that pinch, and now the throttle is stuck part open no matter what you do with the gas pedal.
 

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #902 · (Edited)

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #903 ·
Now that I think about it, I suspect someone got lazy and tried to clamp the linkage to get the cable off when they got ready to drop the oil pan.
 

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #904 ·
Car's up in the air tonight while I have a look under it and tighten some bolts. Hopefully nothing gets sheared!
 

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #905 ·
That was fun :)

Checked the roll bar mounting bolts and the PPF bolts. All of them were loose enough that it took multiple turns of the torque wrench before they clicked. The passenger door actually got easier to close after I was done on that side.

I didn't get a chance to put it on the ground yet because I got a late start, but fingers crossed!

 

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #907 ·
Admittedly, the hardest part was trying to torque the roll bar bolts. Since they're not captive, I had to figure out how to get a wrench on one side, and the torque wrench on the other and tighten them down.
 

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #909 ·
Sadly, it wasn't a fix. Rear end still creaks. Most of the noise from the roll bar not being torqued down is gone. Still need to figure out what the noise is from the front end.
 

·
Murse Magnet
Joined
·
7,825 Posts
Sadly, it wasn't a fix. Rear end still creaks. Most of the noise from the roll bar not being torqued down is gone. Still need to figure out what the noise is from the front end.
Have you tightened all of your chassis bracing? I think the NB has subframe braces and ladder braces and what not.
 

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #911 ·
Have you tightened all of your chassis bracing? I think the NB has subframe braces and ladder braces and what not.
It's on my list. Some of it has to come off to get to the tranny anyway.
 

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #912 ·
Work day!

To level the transmission, I took a section of 2x4 and stacked two Racing Beat sway bar blocks on top of a piece of wood that I jacked up to the frame rails. The 2x4 + blocks put me right within the spec:

20201001_125243 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

Put it all up on a jack and torqued everything down:

20201001_124940 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
20201001_125158 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
20201001_125147 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

I put some closed-cell acoustic foam in the fuel tank tunnels and zipped the roll bar bolts again with an impact. We'll see if that makes any difference.

20201001_150109 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
20201001_150140 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
20201001_150226 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

I didn't include any pics, but I also noticed the nuts on top of my shock shafts were barely on up front. While the shocks were still in the car, I put the Allen key in and tightened the lower nut first, then put the upper one on and tightened it. I'm hoping that is the source of the rattle at the front.

Lastly, I preloaded the front springs just a touch so that they were juuuuust coming into contact (at droop) with the top hats. Need to wait for the car to settle, but I basically raised the perches until the springs just stopped moving with the suspension in droop. Measuring at the pinch welds, I essentially leveled the car out--there's no rake currently. Resetting it should be easy if I need to: they bottomed them out in the front


20201001_162614 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
 

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #913 ·
Outcome seems to have been good so far. Took it out for a shakedown and I was pleased to find that the car didn't rattle on bumps it would've been pretty noisy about before.

I like the car's new height. Seems to be more OEM+ than it was. I need to get back to that goal. More subtlety, less shitbox.
 

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #914 ·
Since I'm relatively pleased with the car right now, I'd like to start looking at another issue: a new Head Unit.

I'd like to see if I can find a good unit for under $200 that gives me an internal amp and at least Bluetooth (if not Android Auto) compatability. Double DIN or Single is fine.

Preferably nothing too flashy and orange/red illumination would be closest to the OEM NB submarine emergency colors.

Any thoughts?
 

·
Murse Magnet
Joined
·
7,825 Posts
Since I'm relatively pleased with the car right now, I'd like to start looking at another issue: a new Head Unit.

I'd like to see if I can find a good unit for under $200 that gives me an internal amp and at least Bluetooth (if not Android Auto) compatability. Double DIN or Single is fine.

Preferably nothing too flashy and orange/red illumination would be closest to the OEM NB submarine emergency colors.

Any thoughts?
Sony xav ax100
 

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #916 ·
Looks nice. Seems like my best bet to find one is eBay, no?
 

·
Resident BMW Apologist
Joined
·
3,129 Posts
I had a Pioneer X8700 in my last NA. Pretty tame looking compared to most aftermarket head units. Illumination color is infinitely adjustable. Would recommend.
 

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #918 ·
I had a Pioneer X8700 in my last NA. Pretty tame looking compared to most aftermarket head units. Illumination color is infinitely adjustable. Would recommend.
That looks really good. I wonder what its replacement is (Crutchfield has it as Discontinued).

The more I think about it, the more I'm wanting to lean towards a Single-DIN unit for just simplicity's sake. I'd love to have a nice big touchscreen, but I bought a nice phone mount so I could actually use my phone for music and navigation if I needed to--I don't really need a big touch screen unit that would be a magnet for theft unless it has a demonstrably larger power output for the speakers.
 

·
Murse Magnet
Joined
·
7,825 Posts
Counterpoint, car play / android auto would offer fewer distractions than your phone mounted beside your cluster and a bigger screen for navigation is better for navigation. Either radio would be just as likely for theft (relatively low these days)
 

·
Mufasa in Training
Joined
·
33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #920 ·
Counterpoint, car play / android auto would offer fewer distractions than your phone mounted beside your cluster and a bigger screen for navigation is better for navigation. Either radio would be just as likely for theft (relatively low these days)
I wasn't really worried about distraction for me. I was just saying I paid money for a phone mount for my new phone with a pretty decent screen so it's hard for me to justify a bigger unit that might be more likely to be stolen and (at least in the limited research I've done) not really much more powerful (if at all) than a single-din unit costing sometimes half as much.
 
901 - 920 of 964 Posts
Top