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Mufasa in Training
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33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #943 ·
Water and dirt can get onto threads and rust.
Fair enough. Since most of the fancy stuff is open-ended, do you know of any high-end closed end lug nuts?
 

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Murse Magnet
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7,825 Posts
Fair enough. Since most of the fancy stuff is open-ended, do you know of any high-end closed end lug nuts?
I think the ones Goodwin racing sells are closed ended.
 

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Murse Magnet
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7,825 Posts
Thanks! Didn't realize they had some.

Speaking of which: this seems like a good purchase for the future.
Maybe?
It would depend on how much you want a 20 year old airbag or not.

If you are open to removing the oem airbag, I'd suggest going with something like a momo montecarlo for your car. I'd also repalce the seatbelt reels with those from an NA8 and i'd remove the safety loop stitching.

If you want to keep the oem airbag by all means necessary, then go with that spacer.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #947 ·
Yeah, plan was to keep the airbag. I went without it on the old car and always felt sketchy about it. Stock NB2 wheel is nice enough. Just be nice to get the wheel off my thighs.
 

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First Things First I'm The Realist
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9,932 Posts
Run whatever lug nuts you want. It doesn’t matter for the amount you drive the car. Just be happy.

And run whatever wheel you want. The stock airbag is a relic. If you’re in a position where you need it then it probably won’t matter. The steering wheel is one of your vehicle inputs. Make it count.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #949 ·
Main reason for switching lug nuts was getting rid of my spine drives because I don't like having to keep an adapter.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #950 ·
Creak is back, but not as bad as it was. Only really noticing it up until I pull out of my neighborhood.

I installed the new head unit and even got the kids involved!

Started with the Metra adapter that Crutchfield sent along with the harness from Pioneer. I also bought a $10 Parking Brake Bypass off Amazon and wired it in:

20201016_154128 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

My son listened as I explained all the functions, then went back to Minecraft:

20201016_154133 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

When I finished, there were three unused wires. On the Metra adapter, the Blue wire for the powered antenna was left out because it's not on the Pioneer harness. On the Pioneer harness, the Mute and Reverse Gear (for backup camera) wires were left off because of course the Mazda harness doesn't have those. I taped them off.

20201016_171617 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

Starting to look a little less messy...

20201016_194906 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

This morning, I started on the install. My son was going to help me by holding the light and screwing things in. His sister got word that we were working outside and wanted in. Since I had nothing for her to do at the moment, she read quietly.

20201017_104859 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

I did a test fit and made sure everything worked. Once that was done, I taped up my new main harness:

20201017_110617 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

I didn't take a picture, but my daughter helped me by running the wire for the microphone through the dash to the back of the radio cavity. With that done, here are the four inputs: Mic, Antenna, Main Harness, and USB.

20201017_115345 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

My son had to run in to eat lunch and get dressed for hockey practice, leaving me to button everything up. Here's the finished product!

20201017_121436 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

Thanks to the long USB cable, my phone got relocated to the console out of sight. I ran the cable the length of the console and popped it in under the switches for the trunk and gas lid. Now I have nothing in front of my hands or the radio (which means that fancy ProClip mount I paid like $80 for is now useless, lol)!
 

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Administrator
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15,735 Posts
Looks good. :)

Lemme get that proclip mount pls kthx.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #953 ·
Took a road trip yesterday because I figured it might be my last chance this year to really go out on a trip. I drove about 2hrs south to the Woodford Reserve Distillery. They weren't offering tours, but I was able to buy for myself and several buddies from the gift shop and also got to see an old friend while I was down there. The trip was mostly about just getting out in the car and forcing myself to trust it (the jack and full tool bag I brought along never left the trunk). That trust was rewarded with a nice drive and beautiful weather.

Kind of wish I'd have taken more pictures, but such is life.

DSC_4150 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
DSC_4155 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
20201021_124904 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
 

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Registered
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1,330 Posts
Anything aluminum open ended and using a 19mm hex head.
I think 949 and FM have the same factory in China making them and I’ve found the same lug nuts on eBay for $20 or so.
No idea where FM's are made. Our forged 7075 T-6 lugs are made in Taiwan. We don't make any proprietary product in China. Just a few bearings and generic supplies.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #955 ·
Thank you for the heads up :)

Car's laid up for the winter, I guess...I need to wait for it to warm up enough to go fill the tank back up before I do it officially.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #957 ·
Tried to adjust the clutch pedal today. Forgot about the car's recent tendency to become difficult to put into gear. My experiments suggested that for whatever reason, the clutch pedal rod was adjusted too long, constantly pushing the slave, causing the premature ToB wear on my old clutch and what I suspect was a heat issue on my new one. When I had a look, sure enough, the rod had been adjusted almost completely out:




It's hard to see, but in person, the rod was almost out of thread to be adjusted longer.

I went ahead and shortened it and reset pedal height. Took the car for a short drive, and everything seems to be better, but it'll matter after I get a longer drive in. That will have to wait until my wife comes back home from out of town. Probably will have the little dude run pedal for me so I can bleed the system again.

Since the kids were playing happily, leaving me with no immediate responsibilities, I decided to vacuum out the Miata and, while the car was out, its garage spot. That also led me to clean out stuff in our backyard shed and do some minor seeding of the lawn (yes, my son deals with ADHD...what was your first clue?). Before that, though, a couple mods I spent money on.

First, a Cobalt/Moss radiator panel:



Simple install but true to form, it took longer than expected because I couldn't get the screws to go in straight, then dropped one onto the undertray...also, now I have to slam the hood to get it to latch.

Also, I hit up Treasure Coast Miata for Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute windshield sprayers. That turned out to be pretty easy :)



Part number in case anyone's curious: EC01-67-50YA

After that, backed the car out, pulled both seats, and started vacuuming:



Final product...my clean new office:





Another (sadly not as good as I'd like) shot of one thing that keeps me in this car:

 

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Mufasa in Training
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33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #958 ·
Didn't get any pictures, but I just installed Paco Motorsport Strong Arms over the weekend. Many shout-outs to Mike (chiefmg) for helping me with the install. Mark really thought these out very well, IMHO. I'd imagine for hard-core track dudes that these are not sufficient, but a 6lb penalty per side is a small price to pay for a car that is MUUUUUUUUUUUCH better behaved over train tracks, expansion joints, and other small imperfections. I can't quantify it, but the car handles more pleasantly (probably due to better chassis behavior over mid-corner bumps).

Issues to be dealt with sooner than later:
  • Slightly saggy bumper (need to buy new clips...need to find a list of all of them, as I know I'm missing several)
  • All new box of fender fasteners (for when stuff gets painted)
  • New lower fender liners (the replacement I bought used was for an NB1 which is different from the NB2 part)
  • Raise hood latch (needed due to radiator panel) so I don't need to slam the hood
  • Recheck the spec on the front shock nut thread (to deal with occasional clunk...similar to the issue found here)
I am cautious about it but my shifting issues have not returned following the clutch pedal rod adjustment. It appears to be another thing the shop screwed up. I won't let Turn-In Concepts touch my car again unless they're paying me.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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33,636 Posts
Discussion Starter · #959 ·
Solved the problem with the hood needing to be slammed--I think. Cut a little bit off the two rubber bumpers on either side of the latch.


 
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