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Discussion Starter #1
Gonna do some AutoX and trackdays, What do you prefer?? Racing Beat, FM, or Eibach Sway bars? Front & Rear, Front Only? What size preferred? I'm using Sport Bilsteins, RB Springs, Federal RSR's. Please let me know. Thanks!

BTW, if someone is selling and is Socal. I'm looking to buy.
 

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I would also like to know this. And if some is selling in SoCal as well, I'll look into buy them too. (After the OP of course).
 

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Gonna do some AutoX and trackdays, What do you prefer?? Racing Beat, FM, or Eibach Sway bars? Front & Rear, Front Only? What size preferred? I'm using Sport Bilsteins, RB Springs, Federal RSR's. Please let me know. Thanks!

BTW, if someone is selling and is Socal. I'm looking to buy.
Front only Racing Beat tubular. Remove your stock rear bar if it oversteers too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rb solid? Tubular Size?

Why do you like your fm bars?

Advantage?
 

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Murse Magnet
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Well I got a good deal on the fm bars. I like that they do not give me near as much body roll. I like that they are adjustable. I like that they are not bright red and look like they could be oem.
 

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Depends on your spring rates. Power will also make a difference. I prefer no rear bar, big front. Think of sway bars as a tuning band aid. Get your spring rates right, then use the bars to fine tune. Pretty much need a big front bar on a Miata, though. Get the car neutral with no rear. Then, if you need more rotation, and you can't get there with shock adjustment (or you don't have adjustable shocks), you can just hook up a small bar to get there.
 

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Official Armchair Racer
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Racing Beat tubular/hollow if you're serious about driving. Stock rears or no rear.
 

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I've never understood the use of an ultra-stiff front bar only (no rear). In my limited experience, stiffer front bars add understeer while stiffer rear bars induce oversteer (generally speaking). Given the need to rotate quickly in autocross, this seems counterintuitive. Am I missing some other factor?

That said, since I'm using both of the neutral (and milder) adjustable FM bars, would a full-stiff front, full-soft rear setup be best for A) autocross, B) track or C) both?

Experienced counsel is appreciated!
 

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I've never understood the use of an ultra-stiff front bar only (no rear). In my limited experience, stiffer front bars add understeer while stiffer rear bars induce oversteer (generally speaking). Given the need to rotate quickly in autocross, this seems counterintuitive. Am I missing some other factor?

That said, since I'm using both of the neutral (and milder) adjustable FM bars, would a full-stiff front, full-soft rear setup be best for A) autocross, B) track or C) both?

Experienced counsel is appreciated!
What I plan on doing with my suspension is getting springs that have a more rearward balance that stock, say like 450/350. Then disconnect the rear sway, and run a Racing Beat hollow front. Since the springs have more rearward stiffness, and the sway bar setup has more frontward stiffness, it cancels itself out. The benefit to this, is your rear is completely independent without a rear sway bar, and it will plant the power better.

http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FRC_1_8NA/FCM_MSDS_1_8NA.htm

Use FatCat's suspension calculator to see for yourself. Enter 0 for the rear sway bar size, then play with the spring rates so you can get the Front Roll Couple back close to stock (or higher or lower based on what you would want).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks guys. This helps. I will be making my decision pretty soon. I'll post up what i get.
 

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Roll Bar God
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I've never understood the use of an ultra-stiff front bar only (no rear). In my limited experience, stiffer front bars add understeer while stiffer rear bars induce oversteer (generally speaking). Given the need to rotate quickly in autocross, this seems counterintuitive. Am I missing some other factor?
Hey Patrick,

Yep, you are missing another factor - traction.
A stiffer rear sway bar jacks up the inside rear tire when cornering, which translates into wheel spin and therefore a loss of time.

A properly set up car will rotate quickly without the need for a stiff rear bar by making use of alternate spring rates and good alignment.

Moti
 

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Yep, you are missing another factor - traction.
A stiffer rear sway bar jacks up the inside rear tire when cornering, which translates into wheel spin and therefore a loss of time.

A properly set up car will rotate quickly without the need for a stiff rear bar by making use of alternate spring rates and good alignment.

Moti
AHA! There's a lightbulb above my head - That makes perfect sense. THX! I think it's time to tune my sway bar settings nonetheless, if only to understand the dynamic effect.
 

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Roll Bar God
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AHA! There's a lightbulb above my head - That makes perfect sense. THX! I think it's time to tune my sway bar settings nonetheless, if only to understand the dynamic effect.
Yep, adjustable pieces don't worth much if you don't try to adjust them to see what they do :)...
At the last event I went to and Buttonwillow, playing with the rebound adjustment alone was worth 7 (!) seconds difference per lap between having the wrong setup to the right setup.

Moti
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok how about alignment. For those who still drive their cars to and from the track and / or daily driven what do you recommend for something for the best of both worlds? I.e. good handling and tire longevity. I know you can't get both. But just askin.
 
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