Gonna do some AutoX and trackdays, What do you prefer?? Racing Beat, FM, or Eibach Sway bars? Front & Rear, Front Only? What size preferred? I'm using Sport Bilsteins, RB Springs, Federal RSR's. Please let me know. Thanks!
BTW, if someone is selling and is Socal. I'm looking to buy.
Well I got a good deal on the fm bars. I like that they do not give me near as much body roll. I like that they are adjustable. I like that they are not bright red and look like they could be oem.
Depends on your spring rates. Power will also make a difference. I prefer no rear bar, big front. Think of sway bars as a tuning band aid. Get your spring rates right, then use the bars to fine tune. Pretty much need a big front bar on a Miata, though. Get the car neutral with no rear. Then, if you need more rotation, and you can't get there with shock adjustment (or you don't have adjustable shocks), you can just hook up a small bar to get there.
I've never understood the use of an ultra-stiff front bar only (no rear). In my limited experience, stiffer front bars add understeer while stiffer rear bars induce oversteer (generally speaking). Given the need to rotate quickly in autocross, this seems counterintuitive. Am I missing some other factor?
That said, since I'm using both of the neutral (and milder) adjustable FM bars, would a full-stiff front, full-soft rear setup be best for A) autocross, B) track or C) both?
What I plan on doing with my suspension is getting springs that have a more rearward balance that stock, say like 450/350. Then disconnect the rear sway, and run a Racing Beat hollow front. Since the springs have more rearward stiffness, and the sway bar setup has more frontward stiffness, it cancels itself out. The benefit to this, is your rear is completely independent without a rear sway bar, and it will plant the power better.
Use FatCat's suspension calculator to see for yourself. Enter 0 for the rear sway bar size, then play with the spring rates so you can get the Front Roll Couple back close to stock (or higher or lower based on what you would want).
Ok how about alignment. For those who still drive their cars to and from the track and / or daily driven what do you recommend for something for the best of both worlds? I.e. good handling and tire longevity. I know you can't get both. But just askin.
From your sig I assume that your car has stockish power, I'd go with -2.2 camber front, 5 caster and 0 toe, and have the rear at -2 camber and 0 toe.
At any case, get a little more front camber than rear, even if your ride height compromises the values I gave you above.
Thanks, Moti! I'm basically stock for HP for now, I will plan to go turbo later but not at the moment so i know settings will change. So, what bars are you running?
food for thought, most of the Spec Miata guys in my area are running the spec bars full soft front, medium to full stiff rear.
i run FM bars, full stiff front, medium rear on my car. i have no problem putting down power early out of a corner and the car is a little squirrly but easily controlled and not tiresome to drive. i'm also on FM springs.
Comparisons between what you do in a caged miata racecar and a regular street miata are generally useless.
The additional stiffening of the chassis from a full cage allows racecars to run things that street cars without a cage will never be able to get right.
The closest you'll be able to in a street car involves having at the very least proper door bars.
75#'s off in the rear but yes close. He's also running sway setups heavily promoted by 949 and a shock that's built with his rates in mind unlike the SM Bilsteins (an ots HD with only different part numbers as far as I'm aware). I'm sure if we want to get real picky not being limited by skinny 15x7's and 205's probably comes into the equation as well.
well, i can't really argue my point anymore, although it's not really an argument per-se because we all seem to agree that the swaybars and settings you run depend on way more than the fact that you drive a miata.. agreed?
i would like to know the torsional difference of the RB hollow vs. FM solid at stiffest setting.
To add to the list of setups. When I purchased my car, the previous owner had 450/275 ground controls with Koni yellows. He didn't know what sway bars were on it, but some quick measurements make me think they were the 15/16" solid RB front and 5/8" solid RB rear. I had to raise it up to get it off the bumpstops, so with the rear on full hard the car was neutral.
I swapped to XIDA-S with 750/450 rates, same sway bars. The car is much lower but stays off the bumpstops due to the stiffer springs. First event and the car was really tail happy. Put the rear sway on full soft. The car was better, but I could induce oversteer in any condition with more steering input.
Swapped the front sway to a RB 1-1/8" race tubular. With the front and rear both on soft, the car is neutral. Very easy to make the car do whatever.
I run SM suspension. 700/325 Sways at soft front and rear. Alignment is 2/2 camber 1/8&1/8 front and rear max caster up front. For me nice compromise for DD AutoX and Track Days. Ride height at 13.5 all around (not quite) corner balanced for almost 50% cross-weights with me in car 180 lbs (+ - 10bs). Car has AC Radio and PS.
So replacing the front sway bar with a stiffer one and keeping the stock rear sway bar will induce oversteer?
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