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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I followed the procedure on miata.net and "miata mike" on youtube.

What I did.

-Cam lobes are pointing out.
-Piston #1 at top dead center
-Crank gear lined up.

The exhaust and intake cams appear to both be off.
Did I do the timing correctly or The belt has slipped?

The car ran good before. Had a 1 k high idle unless you pressed on the brakes.


Thanks for any help.



 

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If the timing marks do not line up with the head marks, pull it off and do it again.
Some things to look at: do the letters on the cam gears match the letters on the head? Is the crank bolt/pully at tdc as well as the the #1 piston?
Make sure you leave the idle pully un-tensioned until after the cams are lined up. Did you actually change the belt or is it a used one? They are not suppose to stretch, but I have tried hours to get a timing alignment straight only to find out the belt was the problem.
Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If the timing marks do not line up with the head marks, pull it off and do it again.
Some things to look at: do the letters on the cam gears match the letters on the head? Is the crank bolt/pully at tdc as well as the the #1 piston?
Make sure you leave the idle pully un-tensioned until after the cams are lined up. Did you actually change the belt or is it a used one? They are not suppose to stretch, but I have tried hours to get a timing alignment straight only to find out the belt was the problem.
Hope this helps
I have not pulled the belt off yet. I was making sure the timing was correct. I believe the belt slipped or the previous owner/mechanic installed wrong. Sorry if I did not clarify that part.

The Crank gear is at tdc perfectly.
 

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The marks never line up perfectly with the marks on the head on my car. It's close, but they generally point a little higher than the head marks. However, the gears do point straight up and the 19 teeth always works out. If you haven't taken the belt off yet, leave it, but half of the belt off length wise, slip new belt on, cut old belt off, push new belt all the way on. Either that, or get one of FM's awesome ninja tools.
 

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Make sure you actually look at it straight on so the middle of the two lines on the backing plate is right between your eyes and level. If you don't the parallax will **** with you. Assuming you have all the gears lined up right, it will line up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had to remove the cam gears to replace the o-ring on the thermo housing. I went to put the belt on I noticed there is only 18 teeth between the cam gears. I believe the gears moved a bit when I tq'd them.

Also the crank gear moves around while I slip the belts on to the tension bearings.
This is such a head ache.
 

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IIRC if you have a wrench on the intake cam to hold it you should be able to muscle the rest into place as the intake cam is the one with spring tension on it when you're trying to line things up.

I'll know again tomorrow because I have to replace my crank and cam seals because I didn't the first time around! :fp:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Im left with 20 teeth in between =/.

I followed mikes instructions with the belt. Should I try to cram the belt on the Intake cam gear?
 

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Seriously.... buy one... may not help immediately due to shipping, but pretty much the most amazing doo-dad every invented.
 

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Make sure it's spot on... intake I mark to the alignment mark, wit the Exhaust E mark to the alignment mark with the crankpully at TDC, there is a mark/notch on the main pulley.

My intake was advance a tooth, fixed it with timing belt replacement. Didn't realize how much power was lost in the upper 5k rpm range (mind blown). So make sure it's right. Also my burbling popping has gone away.
 

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Remove the belt and try again...

might want to take 2 open end wrenches..24-25mm or so..maybe a big crescent wrench...and put them on the hex that is on each cam...get the marks lined up and lock the wrenches together with vice grips...works better than the FM tool...start the belt on the crank gear and the exhaust cam first, making sure it is tight...then slip it on the intake cam...then pop it over the tensioner pulley, which should be fully retracted...loosen teh tensioner bolt and let the spring do it's thing...then do the tensioning procedure...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the help guys I really do appreciate it.

Got it all done.

Timing belt
Water pump
Thermo o-ring
Thermostat
and oil change.

Damn this little car can move now.
Painted the valve cover. All put back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Feels good huh? I'm hoping to finish up today but my crank gear is stuck :(.

edit: Sprayed on a buttload of PB Blaster and went to eat some lunch. Problem solved!
Yes it does. Well it feels good saving a butt load of money diy than dealer/shop.
dang wish mine would have went back togather...... dont let subaru friends help on timing.....my cam sprocket bolts got torqued wrong and both bolts have snaped off into my camshafts FML. glad you were able to figure this out man!!!!
Man that sucks. Sounds like something that would happen to my s14:/

Have you tried drilling them out?
 

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Yes it does. Well it feels good saving a butt load of money diy than dealer/shop.


Man that sucks. Sounds like something that would happen to my s14:/

Have you tried drilling them out?

yes i was able to drill them out.. then removed them with a screw extractor....scary as hell...i had never success fully removed a bolt that had broken with that much torque on them....but all is well there out. now i just gotta wait on new bolts from dealer .fml.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yes i was able to drill them out.. then removed them with a screw extractor....scary as hell...i had never success fully removed a bolt that had broken with that much torque on them....but all is well there out. now i just gotta wait on new bolts from dealer .fml.
Thats good man. I could NEVER get those extractor to work broke 6 sets!!

When I was tq down the camshaft bolts I was also scared they were gonna break...
 

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Very few situations where those extractors tend to work. Usually just risk breaking them off i the hole ending up with a piece of hardened steel in there that you then need to get out. Find that it is usually better to to just get some nice carbide drill bits and drill through the broken off screw/bolt.

Carbide drill bits are up on my shrine of greatest tools ever, right next to the telescoping magnet stick which turns the nightmare of fishing dropped hardware out of the engine bay into a non problem ;)
 

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Very few situations where those extractors tend to work. Usually just risk breaking them off i the hole ending up with a piece of hardened steel in there that you then need to get out. Find that it is usually better to to just get some nice carbide drill bits and drill through the broken off screw/bolt.

Carbide drill bits are up on my shrine of greatest tools ever, right next to the telescoping magnet stick which turns the nightmare of fishing dropped hardware out of the engine bay into a non problem ;)
agree completly those screw extractors suck lol
 
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