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What about putting a plug in that end and redrilling and tapping somewhere else?


Haven’t checked to see if the other end fits either, at that point it’s pretty much a waste. I’m think a lower profile faster for the bracket mount may solve the issue.


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I am joining this crazy train of a thread.... :) I spend a few nights reading EVERY word of every one of the 34 pages and eight long years of posts... what a mission, BUT very productive to see new people come in and find new issues and new solutions. I have noticed a few recurring issues, vacuum leaks, throttle travel issues, TPS wiring, perfect alignment of the throttle bodies, and having enough vacuum for brakes.... are some of the ones I noted down.

So today I bought a complete ITB silver top set up from a chap who is dismantling his Toyota.

I am going to make on own inlet manifold.
My car is a 1990 chassis with a 1996 1.8 engine bottom end with a NB BP4W head on it, 11:1 compression.
Light flywheel, coolant reroute, adjustable cam gears, Link ECU, slightly hotter cams, with a 4.3 Torson diff.
No air conditioning, no power steering, simple as possible car. Its a road car not a race car and topless Speedster so not a daily driver.

I look forward to hopefully adding to the knowledge here as my project progresses.

Regards
Gavin
New Zealand
 

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Gavin, pretty much ahead of you but mines a 1.6. I've got ae101's on a shaved head with a custom cam and adjustable cam gears. Have the light flywheel also. I kept all the conveniences and have a custom plenum that connects into the oem air intake system. I'm running it on an fm221/me221 ecu.

I'd offer up some numbers, but I blew out my throw out bearing, hence the clutch and flywheel upgrade. She's on the stand until spring when I'll be able to break in the clutch and do the dyno tune.
 

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I have bought the 43mm "Silver top" Toyota ITB's from a guy dismantling his car. I wanted the smaller of the two types as the 45mm "Black top" ones would be less suited to the overall aims on my build... ie strong real world road car with the drama of an Italian sports car.

I also bought a blank backing plate for the air filter and a Pipercross domed sausage filter that will accommodate 100mm length trumpts. So I have what I need to be able to work out the clearances and design and make the inlet manifold....

Looking at using the BP4W manifold I have as a base and using the first inch or two of that, and make the manifold out of aluminium.
 

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Playing with the ITB's I have these thoughts.... the levers and throttle linkage on my set up has SO much slack it's never going to cut it.... I was looking for a nice engineering solution to this problem and I came across this product.

https://www.sq-engineering.com/produ...20v-throttles/

They have them for either way up you fit them...
 

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I am running that linkage on my car. Works great. Purchased from Battlegarage.
Cool, do you think that system has enough spring pressure to return the throttle to closed easily and safely? I noticed the Toyota system has more springs on it's pivots.... and wondered if it might need so extra springs in the system some place??
 

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I have not added any extra strings, I do think it is a good idea. Pedal feel is similar to stock.
I had to remove pedal stop bolt and bend the pedal a small amount to be able to achieve full throttle.
 

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I posted this on M.net, but now I'm realizing this might be a better place to have the answer so it's in the same place as the rest of the info:

joemg said:
Does anyone know if the size of the (87-04) mustang IACs are the same as the NB's? They have the same design, but I can't tell size from the pictures, obviously.

I'm looking for an easy solution for the IAC when I install ITBs. I have a 1.6, but it looks like aside from maybe modifying the plug a little, the wiring is the same as the NB (2 pin). If they're the same size, this would be an easy solution:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/87-2004-FORD-MUSTANG-F150-IDLE-AIR-CONTROL-IAC-RELOCATION-PLATE-BLOCK-OFF/162221646950?hash=item25c529e466:g:kEkAAOSwpLNX7Tf8:rk:9:pf:0

the other solution I was considering is the Jeep IAC housing by DIYautotune, but that's 4 pin and I can't seem to figure out how you wire that to work.

Mustang IAC:


NB IAC:
 

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also, in the spirit of keeping all the info on this thread... My research has turned up a couple of useful items that aren't required, but make for an easier/cleaner install (for the 1.6):

1) https://speedyefi.com/?product=90-93-mazda-miata-vaf-maf-delete-plug
-Clean way of wiring the IAT from the other side of the engine bay to the AFM plug and jumpering the needed pins. (Don't forget to remove the ST SIGN fuse and skip their open IAT for a closed one)

2) https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-Female-Male-Connector-for-Throttle-Position-Sensor-1P1421-789-S-745-PT365/262908804394
- I believe this is the connector used on the 1.6 TPS. I'm going to order one and find out for sure. The idea being to wire up an adapter for the 1.6 TPS to the Toyota TPS.

That's just one example... a search for "1P1421 789 S-745 PT365" seems to come up with more options.

Neither of these are "needed" as you can just splice/jumper your own wires, but I like the idea of making a "kit" before I do the install, so It's mostly plug and play once I start dismantling things.
 

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If I have trouble finding a shell to mate to the OEM connector to make a splice harness I will cut the harness before the OEM connector and install my own connector. This allows me to make a subharness with the OEM connector if I need to go back to stock.
 

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If I have trouble finding a shell to mate to the OEM connector to make a splice harness I will cut the harness before the OEM connector and install my own connector. This allows me to make a subharness with the OEM connector if I need to go back to stock.
that works too... I ordered the above connector, I'll report back when I can test it to see if it's the right one.


Also, on this thread https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?p=9256628#post9256628, someone confirmed that the Mustang IACVs have the same spacing/bolt pattern as the NB2 Miata IACV, so we can use the mustang IACV relocation kits! This is a good solution for anyone who doesn't want to fabricate their own solution.
 

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more pics and a tip or two.

*up to you>>>get a brass fitting to cover the water discharge under number 4
*buy lots of vacuum caps
*if using the obx/mtuned rail and you want to use an external fpr..buy a sard/ebay fuel rail adapter..this took about 2 weeks to arrive from china

will start playing with static fuel pressure since its a bit rich at 50psi at idle...could probably gain a few more hp






sorry to quote this post from like 8 years ago, but the pics don't work anymore. Does anyone know what he meant by "up to you>>>get a brass fitting to cover the water discharge under number 4"?

Ironically, I believe I actually own most of his ITB setup as I purchased it (a few years ago) off of the person he sold it to. lol
 

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that works too... I ordered the above connector, I'll report back when I can test it to see if it's the right one.


Also, on this thread https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?p=9256628#post9256628, someone confirmed that the Mustang IACVs have the same spacing/bolt pattern as the NB2 Miata IACV, so we can use the mustang IACV relocation kits! This is a good solution for anyone who doesn't want to fabricate their own solution.

That's really good to know!
 

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also, in the spirit of keeping all the info on this thread... My research has turned up a couple of useful items that aren't required, but make for an easier/cleaner install (for the 1.6):

1) https://speedyefi.com/?product=90-93-mazda-miata-vaf-maf-delete-plug
-Clean way of wiring the IAT from the other side of the engine bay to the AFM plug and jumpering the needed pins. (Don't forget to remove the ST SIGN fuse and skip their open IAT for a closed one)

2) https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-Female-Male-Connector-for-Throttle-Position-Sensor-1P1421-789-S-745-PT365/262908804394
- I believe this is the connector used on the 1.6 TPS. I'm going to order one and find out for sure. The idea being to wire up an adapter for the 1.6 TPS to the Toyota TPS.

That's just one example... a search for "1P1421 789 S-745 PT365" seems to come up with more options.

Neither of these are "needed" as you can just splice/jumper your own wires, but I like the idea of making a "kit" before I do the install, so It's mostly plug and play once I start dismantling things.
I received the AFM delete harness. They accidentally forgot the fuel pump jumper because the speeduino ECU's don't use it, but a quick email and they mailed it out to me asap. Even offered to send another when I had some issues with my local post office. Customer service was excellent. Just be sure to specify you need the fuel pump jumper when you order. They're working on making it a selectable option and updating the pics on the site.
 
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