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Discussion Starter #1
Hello to all, and to all, hello.

Long story short, I completely destroyed a set of fairly new T1-R tyres doing 40 fast laps of the 'Ring, but aside from me melting the middle of the tyres (which I can handle), I burnt away the outer walls fast, which is partly irritating.

This is after 20 laps (in baking heat)


Now what I'm interested in is what people run as a front camber. Currently, I'm running a fairly neuteral setting, and the turn in and chassis stability, especially under braking is superb, but I am keen to try and even out my wear so I dont burn another set of tyres quite as fast. And yes, my pressures were fine :wink:

How have people found turn in on a negative camber?
 

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I find it fine. Its more a matter of Toe, IMO. I have run from -2.0 F and -2.5 R to what I have currently, -2.0 all around. I add a bit of toe out to the front, and no toe in the rear. However, for faster stuff, like the ring would be I am sure, I would consider a touch of toe in in the rear. About half as much as the toe out in front.

BTW, the reason I dropped the camber in the rear was due to FI and much stiffer spring rates.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ah, you see thats what I love about Club Roadster, proper answers. Ask anyone on the MX5OC and they all start going

'OOO, no the MX5 needs this EXACT geometry, and you can't possibly veer from it'
'We need FAR more info to give you a helpful answer'
'Why isn't your car clean and covered in chrome with some fake TT bars' etc. :roll:

Sorry... not sure where that came from...

So generally, a little negative on the fronts doesn't do it any harm as far as stability goes. Awesome.
I suspected turn in will get a fraction lighter, but I can quite happily live with that without having to shell out £130 everytime I go just for new tyres... :D
 

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If you drive hard you NEED more negative camber, plain and simple. This will ensure even tire wear during aggressive cornering. Even running -2° camber up front and -2.5° rear camber I never experienced instability during heavy braking in a straight line. I run as much caster as possible (~4°) while maintaining my camber target (camber and caster are interrelated and you give up one for more of the other). I also run a smidge toe out up front for keener turn in (1/16 total toe out) and the same amount rear toe in. Only very sedate drivers should be running 0 camber. Every person is different so I say start with a well-known alignment setting like Icehawk or Lanny and make small adjustments from there to achieve your desired results.
 

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I've seen lots of people run more camber in the rear on miatas than in the front. I don't know if they have ever tried anything else, but I much prefer about .5 deg more up front. I currently am running 2.5f 2.0r with zero toe in front with a tad in in the rear.
 

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This issue of front/rear camber bias has been discussed a lot on Miata.net. One reason given for the rear bias is to help maintain a neutral to understeer balance. I think there are other ways besides camber bias to fine tune the balance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This issue of front/rear camber bias has been discussed a lot on Miata.net. One reason given for the rear bias is to help maintain a neutral to understeer balance. I think there are other ways besides camber bias to fine tune the balance.
I completely agree. I have been limited in my camber choice at the rear due to 15x8 0ET wheels, and I have been playing with toe for a while till I found a setting that worked for me. The good thing is the Miata responds very well to so many different methods, I guess its just a matter of playing.

I'll try winding on to 2 degree's at the front then, it might upset the back but I can always toe a bit to balance it.

I notice Lotus Elise's run a similar camber setup, ~0 at the front and ~3 at the back, and they seem to do ok... :lol:
 

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I wonder if the Elise setup is due to the fact that it has relatively little weight over the front wheels? Do Porsche 911s and other mid-engine cars run 0° camber as well?
 

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I got more weight up front than any of you guys (~53/47% f/r 2600lb)! I'm at -1.25/-1.75 F/R rear camber with stiff springs (9kg/7kg f/r), +1/16" total toe in front & rear, 4.0/4.1 L to R caster settings, 7/8" bar in front, no bar in rear. This works for me on the street and the drag strip. We will see how it works on the "Sreets of Willow" Willow Springs short course this Saturday the 29th! :?:

Paul
 

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How are you all getting -2 to -3.5* (!!!) camber? I am MAXED at -1.8 myself. Offset bushings?
 
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