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I wonder if that's ATE brake fluid they're running?
 

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wonder why they haven't done the reroutes? i mean, they race the car, so wouldn't the reroute be beneficial?

unless they have another trick up their sleeves!
 

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Do you know what time it ran? and also who made the FTD of the event?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Do you know what time it ran? and also who made the FTD of the event?
Not sure about the yata, but FTD of the day was the yellow R-34 with takata green wheels with a 55.4 I believe, Cyber evo was 2nd with a 55.8
 

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i've ran ATE dot4 supere blues...blows master seals =( now, non-abs and dot5 =), previous car with problem...sold
My guess is that your master cylinder was going to fail regardless of what fluid you ran. I've personally run and I know lots of other friends who've run ATE Super Blue and ATE Type 200 for years without any problem. It is a great racing brake fluid. The biggest problem with any brake fluid is not changing it often enough because DOT3/4 is hygroscopic in nature - i.e. they adsorb water at every opportunity - thus reducing boiling point and contaminating the system which will cause corrosion and destroy everything.

I don't recommend anyone ever switch to DOT5 (silicone based) fluid in a brake system that was designed and filled with DOT3/4. The two fluids are completely incompatible. The only time DOT5 should ever be considered is in a trailer queen that never sees serious road or track use and has been completely restored with 100% new brake system and filled with DOT5 from new. You should never ever convert from DOT3/4 to DOT5 or vice versa. Because silicone based DOT5 doesn't absorb water like DOT3/4 the water that remains in your brake system after draining the old DOT3/4 out will now get concentrated in one location instead of evenly distributed throughout the entire fluid medium. Therefore it'll do a lot more damage much more quickly. Plus DOT5 is a more compressible fluid. DOT5 is more friendly on the paint. If you've just restored your car, given it a $50,000 paint job, and have installed stainless steel hydraulic lines (which are notoriously difficult to get proper flare and often leak at connections until you get them all tight enough) you might be a little paranoid about using DOT3/4 because it can easily damage paint whereas DOT5 is inert. However, no serious driver should ever consider using a silicone based brake fluid.

Read all about brake fluid from my friend James Walker
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml
 

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ATE Super Blue is a DOT 5.1 (Non-Silicone based) synthetic brake fluid with a temperature rating of 530°. I've run it for years. or Vavoline SYN Power when I'm cheap...500°.

I agree DOT 5 is not compatible....even if you flush all the fluid, chances are you'll still have trace amounts in the lines and risk corrosion and compromising the integrity of the lines.
 

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i know this really has nothing to do with this post, great looking cars btw, um, but when looking at brake fluids you need to look for a WET boiling point, rather than a DRY boiling point. the difference is amazing! and since brake fluid doesn't stay "dry" for more than really a weak, it's a better indication of the fluid itself. (usually somewhere in the 290-340 degree range) much lower than dry.

if a brake fluid has a dry boiling point of 600 degrees, and a wet of only 200, it isn't so good.

(just fyi!)
 

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Right now on tsukuba the HKS EVO still holds the fastest time at 53 something, M-speeds R34 is in the 54 secs range, fastest 2 wheel drive/fastest rotary: R magic FD3S is a 55 sec car. those are the fastest 3 right now.
 
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