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Discussion Starter #1
I'm saving most of my money right now and i wanted to get some opinions on whether to mod my 94 Roadster, with a big fat turbo :D or a sexy ITB setup =D>


looking around 2.5-3 grand



thanks in advance
 

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If you want power, then go turblow.

If you want throttle response, want the exclusivity, want the revs and willing to fix fuel leaks, then go ITB's.

I was in the same boat but decided to boost due to the hp/cost ratio. Much cheaper to get 170-180hp to the wheels (thats all I want) with a turbo then NA. My entire mix of used and new parts for my turbo kit cost less then $2000.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yeah i was leaning toward turbo anyways but now im pretty sure im gunna get somekind of turbo...but ITBs are sooo sex
 

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What do you intend to do with the car? (autocross, road race, drift, etc)
 

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I am still debating this topic as well. But I think Im going to go for boost. The Greddy kit I think will do me just fine. I mainly autox the car and I just want something that will pull on my buddies gay ass 4.6 mustang that he spent 13gs on when I spend 4 total and pull on him damn its going to be a great day in miata history LOL
 

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Exhonda,
Im going to be getting the greddy basic turbo kit for my na,one concern of mine's is when it is time to smog the vehicle does it pass emissions?
 

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If you want power, then go turblow.

If you want throttle response, want the exclusivity, want the revs and willing to fix fuel leaks, then go ITB's.
ITB's only leak if not done properly. I've installed my ITB's and have no fuel leaks what so ever. I even just changed all the fuel lines over to braided with earl's fittings with no leaks.

True turbo/charger do give the biggest bang-per-buck, but I've been down that road. I wanted something a little more "pure" or "simple" so to speak and opioned for ITB's. Guess it's more of a personal thing.

The sound of the ITB's or carbs "gargling" is more appealing to me then hearing the waste gate blowing off. Maybe just a little more "old skool" then some of the younger crowd.

If you are going the greddy route, then I would look into the seeing if there is a carb exempt number. Adding anything to the kit, intercooler, different waste gate, etc will void the exemption. Some smog shops may notice it, some may not. Just something to think about.
 

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^My reference to "fuel leak" was with regards to old-timers calling anything carbureted as such. It was tongu-in-cheek :)

yeah, I wanted the "pureness" of NA also but the reality is that I'm 33 years old. I don't want the hassles of it being ILLEGAL for street use. I'm too old for that ****. Finding smog shops that will smog it and having to worry about a hood-check from cops doesn't appeal to me and isn't worth it anymore. Maybe someday I'll build another weekend-special, but not now.
 

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If you want power, then go turblow.

If you want throttle response, want the exclusivity, want the revs and willing to fix fuel leaks, then go ITB's.

I was in the same boat but decided to boost due to the hp/cost ratio. Much cheaper to get 170-180hp to the wheels (thats all I want) with a turbo then NA. My entire mix of used and new parts for my turbo kit cost less then $2000.
100% agree.

my turbo kit all told is just under 2g including trade values and not including my horrible fab mistakes... lol

But if I were to start over and that group buy for the itb's and ecu for ~1500 was around I'd be singing a different song and be itb'd right now.
 

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The GReddy Turbo kit will pass emissions no problem.

To be honest, I was quite disappointed in the GReddy kit's fit and finish.

When I pulled the greddy header, it warped the exh. manifold bolts, and the manifold was precut. It also warped, and I couldn't get it off w/o removing some studs.

Manifold cracked.

Broke all 4 turbo to manifold bolts.

If CARB emissions isn't important do the following:

buy an ETD manifold
buy a BEGi downpipe
buy a BEGi FMU
buy a GReddy Equiv turbo
buy the stripes intercooler piping kit
make an intercooler
tap your oil pan and install AN return line
buy an AN feedline

be happy you didn't buy all the stuff you would've swapped out anyways, because the manifold cracks, the downpipe is too small, the Vortech doesn't give you any adjustability, and the stock crossover pipe cracks under boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
big thanks to everyone who put their opinion down, I'm gunna think about it for a little bit cause i have a little bit more saving to do anyways with a $250 car payment and with three speeding tickets on my record i have a thick, $250 insurance payment per month.




once again, thanks buds :)
 
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