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Discussion Starter #1
I'm just curious is new, stronger valve springs, i.e. Flyin Miata Valve Spring kit would be at all beneficial to an otherwise stock 1.6L .

And also on the point, what about adjustable cam gears? How much tuning can you benefit from by tweaking the cam angles?

Just a really curious question. As I have no idea what they would do...
 

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and it's lighter (FM) meaning it should rev a bit freer, that said i'm sure there are better ways to spend money on a stock 1.6 for a better return. If you're not revving higher than stock and/or using different cams it seems not needed to me.
 

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i'm sure there are better ways to spend money on a stock 1.6 for a better return. If you're not revving higher than stock and/or using different cams it seems not needed to me.
I agree. It is one of those things you'll want if you plan to build a high-revving naturally aspirated engine but if you're on stock cam and stock rev limiter you won't notice any difference. Actually, stiffer valve springs on an otherwise stock motor might even lower your horsepower output because they induce greater frictional losses. The proper spring constant is a tradeoff and must be sized properly for each application. Too stiff can be just as bad as not stiff enough . Stiffer valve springs can allow you to rev to higher rpm before valve float but the stiffer spring requires more energy to turn the cam each revolution so if you're not revving any higher there may be a net loss in performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So after air intake, exhaust and headers, are there parts you can add to the engine one by one that will show improvements over stock?
Something not involving a complete tear down? Done at home in the garage...
 

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if you want to get real power from a 1.6, you won't get it from bolt-ons.

however, the best way to maximize the power from your stock 1.6 is to get a Link ECU or other stand alone computer. eliminate the bottleneck of the AFM and utilizing an agressive timing map that a stand alone offers will add power and give you the flexibility not offered by the stock ecu.

another way to look at it: add up the cost of an exhaust, intake, header, cat/test pipe (GOOD ones), compare it to the price of a used link ECU with air intake temp sensor, knock, and keypad.

i think the standalone gives you far more options and room to "grow" in other directions.

i ran a link with a modified head, header, exhaust and open intake with an 8# flywheel. it's like running IRTBs. the car felt like a strong '99 motor.

going to a turbo, s/c, or IRTBs is uch easier because i already have a good engine management system in place.
 

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kung fu makes good points. Few n/a mods will make you go WOW all by themselves. However, when chosen carefully, they all compliment each other and together they can make for a fun motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That was another weird thing I couldn't grasp. I always have assumed that the Link was a good option for people with FI. But your saying I can benefit from it even without turbo or supercharger?
 

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yes.

with the link, you eliminate the air flow meter on the 1.6 which is as restrictive as it is crude. you can run different injector sizes, more aggressive ignition, raise the rev limiter, and a few other things.

it's as effective in a n/a configuration as it is in f/i. f/i cars use it because of the controls. it allows then to run larger fuel injectors without an AFPR/fuel pump, offers knock control, and a fine tuning of th engine to handle the extra power.
 

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I was considering the spring set from FM, Jeremey told me on stock cams there would be no point as I will not make power that high, so I'll just be setting my redline to 7800 untill I get some cams. At that point I'd have to re-shim anyway so I figure no big deal..
 
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