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It's a Davies Craig ewp80and controller unit, the nylon smallest type of the range. Plumbed to run reverse flow feeding front and rear of head and returning to top of rad through the waterpump impellor bearing cavity.
I had it running reverse flow feeding just the back of head on my astina (lantis) a couple years ago and logs showed less than a 5°c variance in temps even on hard summer mountain runs at altitude, cold winters etc.
The controller varies flow to keep temps stable and has a run on feature after shutdown that acts more or less like a turbo timer without the engine left running.
 

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Catching up on three things I did.

Over the last week I got to work on the car three times.
First:
First time using my new (own, no longer borrowed) tools, removing the old end-links of the anti-roll-bar was on the list.
They did put up a decent fight, and the photos show that they were not in acceptable condition.
First one went alright:

I made the mistake of unscrewing the bottom end first, making the stupid thing try to flex out of the way when trying to undo the upper bolt.

Second one took some thinking, turning the wheels to full lock moved the steering just far enough out of the way to get the socket wrench in there.


Third one (rear right) put up the biggest fight, linking up three extensions did the trick:

I believe I've never used a wrench that long (about 25 inches) before.

This is what the pieces looks like removed, replacing them was pretty much overdue:



Next up, finishing up the rust-removal on the brake caliper brackets, and getting them painted so they don't rust again:


I went with silver Hammerite-paint, and the result after letting them sit overnight doesn't look too bad:


At last, I got new screws for the end-links and the brakes.
Buying original ones costs a fortune, so I went and bought ones from a local store meant to supply construction workers/craftsmen.
The silver ones are for the end-links, and I went with galvanized ones so they won't rust too fast.
They're a bit too long, so they got cut down to size and I put rust-protection paint where I cut it.
Stainless wasn't an option, since the needed degree of hardening/stiffness wasn't available in a stainless variation.
I also got washers separately, with the screws lacking the "integrated" version of the stock parts.

This shows the old screw alongside the new one and the new one after adapting it to the car:


The screws for the brakes weren't avaliable in a rust-protected version, so I went and painted their heads (and the underside) to keep them from rusting (too soon).


I didn't quite finish with adapting the screws for the end-links, so I'll get that done and FINALLY start assembly of the suspension this week.

Max
 

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Went out for dinner last night at 8pm. Towed it home with a chain and a towhitch on an SUV at 1am.

After a 4 hour wait gave in to this option.



The RyokuRob tow hooks worked well. No clue what it is, I JUST changed the fuel pump 1.5 months ago, but I couldn't hear it last night. It died in a semi loud area next to a busy street. -_-
 

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De-rusted the rear wheel hubs, and coated them in copper-paste to keep them from re-starting to rust all too soon.
Also, I put in the new anti roll bar end links, which is the official turning point in the restoration from disassembly to assembly.

Max
 

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Installed new brake master, made new copper (copra?) nickel hardlines and received muteki SRR48 lug nuts in mail, (thanks again Maxime)...spannered those suckers on to corns cmc03 rims.
Picked this up recently too.




Thoughts?
 

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Flushed the cooling circuit. Although simple AF, I hate this job. Had to do it, because I have been running straight distilled water for 9 months, as I could not bother getting some coolant. Corrosion is not fun. Don't be me.
 

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Nice shiny new OEM coolant expansion tank to replace my nasty brown old one before it explodes somewhere and leaves me stranded.



And my favorite thing to do to any car: a quality exhaust. In this case a GWR RoadsterSport Race I got used for a benny and, especially for that money, I couldn't be happier. It is the ideal daily driver exhaust that's nice and raucious when I get on it with the occasional pop when I shift, but when I set the cruise control.om the highway the sound just... disappears. Wonderful.
 

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Noticed one of my coolant hose clamps was loose-ish (the hose had moved), after being installed about half a year ago.
Turns out they "settle", so I went through the car and re-tightened them all (and with that, using ones that are adjusted with screws paid off).
Tried to do it without tearing the whole engine bay apart, took a little longer but the engine support, oil filter (and oil) and most of the wiring stayed in place or at least connected.
A bit of a pain (literally) to do, but I'd like to keep having a watercooled engine.

Also, finally replaced the old red ignition wires (which someone/-thing had tried to eat at one point) with black ones, so the car looks a little more original under the hood.
The dipstick is on the to-do-list.
And yes, I know my valve cover is dirty.

 
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