[Good Enough]

Damn, looks good. I am hesitant to try this while its on the car...

Im not so sure the gains would out weight the risk. What do you think..?

 

[90R]

I'd NEVER consider porting while the head is on the car.
You can find a 1.6 for free if you look hard enough. :mrgreen: then slowly build it

 

[Good Enough]

I was gunna shove a rag and use a vacuum in one hand and the dremmel in the other.

I guess ill just leave it for now and if i cant find one cheap/free ill pick it up.

 

[90R]

Winkyl's build is my target. I'm hoping to beat his #'s when I'm done.

it is interesting if you look at his ports and mine

his

mine

 

[Good Enough]

His looks a bit deeper and smoother.

I think you should take your valves out and keep going...

 

[90R]

His is smaller.
I have a concern these 101's are going to be too big to build any decent torque. They go from 56mm to the valve in 10"ish.

 

[nasubi]

Quick mock up.

list of to do:
set cam gears to TDC
install moss and sandwich plate for senders
install vac lines
install FPR and dual feed lines.

Retest VPC...if not source subcon or build diypnp

 

[slolx50]

:fap:
I'm gonna need a towel...

 

[nasubi]

some more FYI:
you will need 6 vacuum caps at 1/8

also the water line under #3 is a bit close to the alt bracket..i will be capping these off..as i see ZERO need for it...the size of the thread is 3/8..on the hunt for some block offs.

maybe in future revisions..a 3/8 with a 1/4 fitting can be put on #1 for the Brake booster instead of teeing of the 4 using the dist block...

 

[90R]

beacareful blocking that at the manifold. You could develope a leak at the mani to head interface. I'd tap the head and run in a set screw. Or grind some of the bracket away to clear the hose.

 

[nasubi]

what's the point?. there is a MUCH bigger port under #1.
and for history..i ran my Harada manifold blocking off both ports for a few years.


Reference picture below found randomly..

 

[90R]

the hole between #1 & #2 is a coolant passage

 

[og_m3]

My understanding is the 111's have a different bolt pattern to the manifold.

What exactly are you asking?

101 and 111 have the same bolt pattern. the 111's are however larger in the opening.

Here is a pic of the silvertop itb with a blacktop itb gasket. as you can see, the blacktop is not a circular opening.

 

[Good Enough]

Hey,

I am trying to get a mental grasp on how I am going to do this whole thing. I have almost everything I need. But I have a few questions...

What are you guys doing for you IAC controll?
Where are you going to be mounting you IAT?

 

[90R]

I like Foo's idea for the IAT.
I haven't figured out the IAC issue yet. Probably just gonna idle it around 1000 and call it good

 

[Good Enough]

What did Foo do?

I take it idling at 1000 would mean your not going to worry about an IAC?

 

[90R]

foo just mounted the IAT to his shock tower brace on the intake side.

At first I won't worry about an IAC. I'll deal with that later if I need to or want to.

 

[Good Enough]

Are there provisions to properly run an IAC with the toyota/T3 set-up?

vac ports pre and post butterflys? I supposed I COULD just go look at mine when I get home from work.

 

[90R]

I supposed I COULD just go look at mine when I get home from work.

 

[tronik]

Collecting parts for my own setup here, and thought I had my head around everything until I got to freedomGLI's bit about The IAC setup. I have no idea what's up with that. This adapter block is what DIYautotune sells to hook up a jeep IAC, but I'd still have no idea where the resulting hoses go, or how to tweak the idle. I'm happy to hear most people are not planning on running any IAC.

I take it you will be setting your idle via tuner studio, and not by messing with the four idle screws on the ae101's, assuming they have those?

Without my ae101's in front of me (they are supposedly being shipped to me by a forum member here), I also didn't know where we were supposed to put the AIT sensor - hearing that it can just be mounted in the general area near the horns, like on a strut bar, is good to hear as well. Didn't know if we were going to have to tap a horn, or somewhere on the ae101's.

some more FYI:
you will need 6 vacuum caps at 1/8

also the water line under #3 is a bit close to the alt bracket..i will be capping these off..as i see ZERO need for it...the size of the thread is 3/8..on the hunt for some block offs.

maybe in future revisions..a 3/8 with a 1/4 fitting can be put on #1 for the Brake booster instead of teeing of the 4 using the dist block...

ok completely lost with this comment - I see that on the T3 adapter there is a hose bung that corresponds with the coolant port between #1 and #2 - what the hell is it there for? I know on the stock intake manifold, this leads to a bung, which I think was then meant to go to that funky wax filled dealie on the side of the intake manifold. But what is the purpose of having the bung on the T3 adapter? Doesn't seem like there is anywhere you'd want a coolant line to go. I'm inclined to remove the brass bung, and block it off with a bolt.

What are the 6 1/8 vac caps for? various vac bungs on the ae101's? or for the four brass vac nipples on the T3 adapter? As I understood it, in my head anyway, since there really aren't any instructions for this thing (techno toy probably should have written some up, honestly), each brass vac nipple on the T3 adapter runs a vac line up to the vac distribution block, one of the other vac block ports sends a line to the megasquirt map sensor, and another vac block fitting provides the vac line for the brake booster hard line.

So glad you all are ahead of me...I couldn't blaze this trail.